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Editor’s Note: Our first overseas trip as a couple sure got us hooked on travel. We over prepared, obtaining about 50 lbs. of brochures and guidebooks. We drove a lot, covering too much of the country in 3 weeks (only 2 weeks outside of London). We were on a budget, and our choice of food and lodgings reflects that. But we lucked out with the weather and managed to have a great time, despite witnessing a robbery! As with all of the older trips, these photos were digitized by taking digital photos of a projected slide, so the quality ain't the greatest. I'll be scanning them all at some point in the future. Click any photo to enlarge.
Day 1 – 9/16 – 9/17/89 Wow, what a day. We’ve done so much in the last 24 hours it’s time to take a breather. Our trip began last night when Joyce and Bob drove us to Newark Airport. Our flight left on time – a 747 – it was only about 80% full. We tried to sleep most of the way but managed to get only about 2 ½ hours before we landed at Gatwick. We priced a cab to Jill’s boss Ruth’s house, but it was too expensive. So we took a “coach” (bus) from Gatwick to Heathrow and then a cab from Heathrow. It was very efficient and on time – and for the first time ever our bags were nearly the first off the plane. We arrived at Ruth’s – in the town of Hanwell – around 10 a.m. Since Ruth is in the States, we have the place to ourselves. We immediately took to bed for another 2 ½ hours of shuteye. We got up and walked about 20 minutes to the nearest Tube station. After another 40 minutes or so, we walked up the stairs to the statue of Eros in Picadilly Circus – the statue of love! Our first task was to find sustenance, so we got a typically British meal – deep dish pizza. Then we jumped on a double decker bus for an hour and a half tour of the city to get our bearings. We saw all the must-see sights, while ugly Americans furiously snapped photos through the windows. We’ll see the sights a little more in depth later in the week. Since it was around 4:30 on Sunday by the time we were finished, we took in some outdoor sites. Weather was around 70 and cloudy. Walked down Picadilly through Green Park and into Hyde Park. Saw Speaker’s Corner – guys on soapboxes preaching and arguing with anyone who will listen. Unfortunately mostly religious arguments, which we weren’t interested in.
Then back out of Hyde Park to the Hard Rock Café. They successfully created a New York atmosphere in London – down to the surly waitress and tourist-ripoff prices. From now on we will try to look for non-tourist, non-American places. The guitars of Jeff Beck, Eric Clapton, Keith Richards, etc. and Beatles memorabilia were cool, though.
Then a stroll through some back streets before catching the Tube back home. The Tube so far seems extremely reliable and fairly clean, but I was expecting more modern. Wooden floors in the cars, and a wooden escalator! Got asked for directions by 3 other tourists, in the Siebenheller tradition (cheerfully provided.) Now it’s 9 p.m. and we’re trying to watch the telly. I have trouble finding something worthwhile on 54 channels at home – there’s only 4 here! Ruth lives in a row house that is narrow and tastefully furnished. It sure is great to have your own place!
Day 2 – 9/18/89 Another hectic day. We did sleep till 10:00, though, to recover from day 1. We got into the city before noon, arriving at Westminster. We walked over Westminster Bridge, then around Westminster Palace, the building where the houses of Lords and Commons meet. Unfortunately, you can’t get in unless you know an M.P. Too bad we didn’t think to ask Sir Gordon or Lord Hanson to arrange a tour for us. Also saw Big Ben, although I can’t remember hearing it ring. Does it? (Yes) Then across the street to see the Church of St. Margaret’s; relatively new (1500’s), compared to its neighbor Westminster Cathedral (1065!). Sir Gordon was married in St .Margaret’s, though, and Jill used to work for Sir James doing fundraising for it. Has an unusual clock tower – a vertical sundial. Then it was in to Westminster Abbey itself – absolutely huge with spectacular vaulted ceilings and stained glass. Of course the place is filled –every square foot – with tombs of famous Brits. Mostly unknown to heathen Americans though – with a few exceptions. We knew more names in Poet’s Corner than anywhere else. Jill thought it was kind of spooky. We remembered the Choir from a Christmas special on TV last year. Had lunch in a pub on the “first floor” (upstairs) of a building down the street. Shepherd’s pie was very good. Then back on the Tube to “The City” of London to St. Paul’s Cathedral – where Charles and Diana were married. Also quite spectacular. Jill and I climbed 259 steps to the “Whispering Gallery” at the bottom of the dome, where you can speak against the side of the dome and be heard on the other side! Then I climbed many more circular staircases (588 steps from the bottom, according to Michelin) to an outside view from the top of the dome. You could see all the way from Big Ben to the Tower of London. Took lots of photos, joined Jill at the Whispering Gallery, and back outside. As may be guessed, the weather cooperated again, 70 and cloudy, with a little sun in the a.m. Oops, before St. Paul’s we went to Trafalgar Square. Nice fountains, weird people, and thousands of pigeons. Some idiots were buying bird seed to feed them – pigeons landing on their heads! Lord Nelson gazing out to sea. After St. Paul’s we had planned to go to the Tower of London, but it was already 4 and we were tired. So, we had a pint at a non-touristy pub and rested a while. Rejuvenated, we hopped back on the Tube to Covent Garden. Trying to find Leicester Square, we strolled around Soho and Covent Garden for a few hours. Bought exotic coffee. Sort of like Greenwich Village, but harder to navigate. Finally found Leicester Square and it was closed (!) for renovations. Had a mediocre Chinese meal, then another stroll, taking in the Peep Show district. Oops, wrong turn! Much cleaner than Times Square, though! Another pub, then Picadilly Circus for the Tube home. I like the Tube more every t6ime we take it . We never wait more than 5 minutes. Signs everywhere, including ones in the station giving the destination and time to arrival of the next 3 trains. Very clean, with cloth padded seats that would last about 5 minutes in New York. We took the bus back and forth from the Tube today – double decker, and it too runs about every 10 minutes. BBC says no rain tomorrow. Strangely, the only forecast one day in advance. Oops – also saw 10 Downing Street from a distance. Tomorrow – who knows?
Day 3 – 9/19/89 A veritable walking marathon today – at least my back and legs tell me so.
Woke up at 8 and were out around 9 for a Tube ride to the Tower of London. Had a great time and it wasn’t very crowded. Took a tour first, given by a Beefeater, that was informative and entertaining. The autobiography of Henry VIII I read came to life as we saw historic spots around the grounds. We climbed up many stairs into towers, onto walkways, and around the grounds. It’s hard to believe that parts of the Tower have been there for 900 years. Saw the Crown Jewels too – magnificent. The amount of gold and jewels, and the handiwork, was unbelievable.
Then after a hamburger lunch we walked out onto the Tower Bridge for views up and down the Thames. Then disaster struck – the meter on my camera broke again. It happened once before, but it fixed itself. Now what? We headed back to Hyde Park for a walk through Kensington Gardens and around Kensington Palace. There was one very pretty courtyard-type garden, but mostly “The Gardens” were just an extension of the park. Then it was out onto Kensington High Street, which seemed even noisier than Picadilly Circus. We stopped in “Marks and Sparks” expecting to find bargain-priced cashmere (as we had been told), but they didn’t have a single stitch of cashmere in the store. So we bussed down to Harrods, where I was given a card at the photo shop, guiding me to a camera repair shop in Picadilly. We were kind of foot-weary at this point and didn’t feel like exploring Harrods, which seems quite massive and maze-like. So, Jill called Sir Gordon’s office at Pont Street Mews, which just happened to be right around the corner. We stopped up and said hi to Lynn, and she gave us a tour. Quite like a house rather than an office. Jill sent an insulting fax (“Yo Dirtbag”) to her New York officemate Shannon, then followed it up with a phone call. By this time it was around 5, and we headed up to the photo repair shop. The estimate was ₤60 + 15% VAT = ₤69. Seemed no more expensive that I would pay in New York, and he claimed it would be ready in 48 hours. We’ll see! Then a stop in a pub and a stroll back to Leicester Square to look at the half price tickets. We decided we were a little too tired though, and headed home. Picked up some groceries and had a simple dinner of soup, crackers, cheese and Doritos. It’s now 9 p.m. and Jill is attempting to watch some horrid sitcom and I am considering cracking open David Copperfield for the first time. Back and legs have now recovered – it’s amazing what an hour of sitting down will do! Weather – sunny and 75. Miscellaneous Notes: 1) Jill is being too polite because she feels like a tourist. 2) Thank God for numerous public toilets. Is there one left in the USA? 3) We’ve been checking out the exchange rates – the best so far was at Harrods, of all places. 4) Jill mis-keyed the entry alarm, and it went off! Hi, neighbors!
Day 4 9/20/89 Another glorious day weather-wise. We got up and went straight to the City to see the Changing of the Guard. We got right up to the Front Row, right next to the fence, because Jill noticed some men putting new gold leaf on the fence, dismantling their equipment. It soon got crowded, even though it was an hour early. We saw the whole thing up close, and took a lot of pictures with our “backup” camera. Hope they come out. Also took lots of photos for folks behind us! The changing of the guard itself was impressive, but the band played several tunes before leaving like “Star Wars” and “My Favorite Things” that seemed out of place.
Then we picnicked in St. James’ Park on sandwiches, took a stroll around the lake, saw lots of unusual waterfowl, then back on the Tube.
Took the Tube all the way out of town to Richmond, hoping to be able to walk to Hampton Court. Instead, we had to take 2 busses for about 45 minutes. It was interesting, though – out of the city and lots of old ladies with their shopping. Bus drivers very helpful and friendly.
Hampton court, built in the early 1500’s, was very impressive. We first went around the maze – made of hedges. Couldn’t find our way out, and gave up. Then we realized the only way out was the way in! Stubborn folks would never get out. Then walked through the various gardens – all beautiful and immaculate – 1600 acres in all. Saw scullers on the Thames.
Then walked around the huge palace. Impressive paintings. Believe it or not, the kitchen was about twice the size of our house.
Stopped in a pub after we were done and had a few. Asked the bartender how to play “bar pool”, a coin-operated strange pool table game. Could be fun with practice. Didn’t want to take 2 busses back, so we walked to the BritRail station. Asked a bobby for directions, and he explained to us that not all trains in the underground are “Tubes”, only certain lines. Took BritRail to Wimbledon and got off to see if we could find the tennis stadium. No sign of it, so we had a very good Italian dinner at “Dolce Vita”. Dave – onion soup and spaghetti marinara, Jill – Pollo Principessa. Took the Tube home – it’s starting to get old, especially on the return trip. Misc. Notes: asked the waiter for the check, he didn’t seem to understand. I think it’s “bill”.
Day 5 – 9/21/89 We’re beginning to lose stamina earlier in the day – I thin it’s time for the car! This morning we headed out to Kew Gardens – on another glorious day – 80 and sunny. Kew Gardens was beautiful and uncrowded. Lots of older folks who obviously come just to read the paper every day. Unfortunately not much color at this time of year – especially since it’s a park-type garden, rather than formal. Stayed till around 12:30, then picked up lunch in Kew. Unfortunately, there was nowhere to eat it. So, back on the Tube – we got off at Baron’s Court and ate on a bench on the platform. Next stop – Harrods. Walked around Harrods for an hour or 2, picked up a Chinese porcelain umbrella stand for Ruth – for being so hospitable. Then walked around the corner to Sir Gordon’s office at Pont Street Mews again. Relaxed, Jill called home (so did I, but mom & dad were out). Woke up Archie the chauffeur, who was sunbathing on the roof, (life’s tough), and he took us to Grosvenor Place – Hanson’s main office, We stopped in and said ‘ello to Jill’s friend Karen Levy , the Director of Investor Relations. Archie then chauffeured us to Picadilly so I could pick up my camera – now fixed. We then walked back down past Trafalgar Square to the Thames to try to get a river cruise. Unfortunately, the last boats had left for the day. We settled for a pint at a floating restaurant. Went back to Harrods to pick up something for dinner. We thought it closed at 7, but on Thursdays, it’s 6. Had a bout 5 minutes to pick up what we needed, so we split up. Jill got bread and grapes, I got cheese, but neither of us managed to get any meat before they shut down the registers. Oops! The grape / chicken fiasco. The Tube was packed for the trip home, just when we need to sit and rest. So, we ended up with grilled cheese, soup, grapes and beer for dinner. The only drawback to Ruth’s flat is that around 4 p.m., when you need a nap, you have nowhere in the city to nap! So, you end up running around instead, and losing steam early. But having our own place for free is worth it. We’re both looking forward to getting in the car and out into the countryside. I think I’ll get out the atlas and plan tomorrow’s route.
Day 6 – 9/22/89 A relatively mellow day, which was just what the doctor ordered. We slept in till 8:30, then Tube’d it to Heathrow to get our car. Got picked up (in our car) by a man from the agency, then went back to the office for the details. The car is a Vauxhall Carlton station wagon, which is one category up from the car we reserved (and paid for.) It has all the extras – radio / cassette, auto trans, sunroof, electric windows / locks, etc. We drove to Windsor castle, and at first Jill was more nervous than I was. It’s not as difficult as I had imagined, but still a little nerve wracking. I got more nervous when we started to encounter one roundabout after another. Windsor was impressive, being built before 1100. The town is kind of built around it. We toured the State Apartments, which Queen Elizabeth still uses. We also checked out the dollhouse built for Queen Mary in 1923.Unbelieveable for the detail. It looked just like a palace interior. (Ed. Note: Windsor Castle begins our tradition of visiting historical monuments that burn down shortly after we leave.) Also toured St. George’s Chapel, where knights are knighted yearly and Henry VIII is buried. Then back in the car to try to find Frogmore, a “stately home”. Since we didn’t have our guidebooks with us, we couldn’t find it. Ended up driving through Windsor Great Park and into Bagshot. What a name! Since we didn’t want to hit rush hour traffic on my first day of driving, we headed home via the M4, M25 and A4. I did it! Now I just have to get over the nervousness.
It’s now wash day, since we have access to a washer / dryer (in one unit), we are doing the laundry before we head out. We also went to the Safeway in Windsor, where we picked up groceries to replace those we consumed at Ruth’s, as well as for tonight’s dinner and the road. Tonight’s menu is a whole stuffed cooked chicken, which just needs to be heated, with potatoes and carrots. Had a nip of Glenmorangie scotch earlier – yum. Tonight, since we’re full of vigor for a change, we may hit a pub or 2 in Hanwell. We’ll see. Weather today was cloudy with a little rain the in a.m. Keep the fingers crossed!
Day 7 - 9/23/89 Here we are on the Isle of Wight. Ugh! It’s somewhat our fault that we’re sitting in a dingy hotel room – we didn’t make reservations – on a Saturday night – but on the whole the Isle is a disappointment. I was expecting something like Nantucket, especially after paying ₤44 for the ferry ride here. In reality the island, at least the hotels, seem to not have had much updating since WWII. The island scenery is nice, but no nicer than the mainland. Last night we went up to the corner pub and had a few with the locals. Smoky! Last call, 10:50 p.m. We got up early today (7:00) so we could tidy up before Ruth came home. Just as we finished up, she arrived. We motored south, first on the M25 and A3, then on secondary roads. Stopped in Petworth to have a look around and discovered Petworth House, a 17th c. manor house. It wasn’t open but we had a lovely walk around the grounds – a deer park. The deer had wide antlers, like moose! Took lots of minor roads through the South Downs, which was fun. I am now quite comfortable driving, and love the car. We caught the ferry at Portsmouth. Tomorrow morning after breakfast we are immediately heading off the island via Yarmouth, and up to Stonehenge. Now we just had cheese and crackers, I had a nip of Glenmorangie, and Jill is watching the Ryder Cup on the Beeb. Tonight we’re heading to the Henry VIII Restaurant, which seemed to have a nice menu. Then we may hit a pub so as to postpone coming back to the room. Weather was partly cloudy and 60’s today. Looking out the window, this place has potential. Has nice grounds, rose garden, etc. The main hotel was a manor house built hundreds of years ago – unfortunately we’re in a bungalow! But spirits are still reasonably high.
Day 8 – 9/24/89 I am sitting in a room at the George Hotel in Amesbury, with the sounds of a choir from the Methodist church next door coming through the window. The hotel is a 17th c. coaching inn. Charles Dickens once stayed here, and mentioned it in one of his books. We had breakfast in our hotel on the Isle of Wight. A very holiday-camp type atmosphere, with us as the only non-Brits. We felt sort of out of place. We immediately bolted and got the 11:00 ferry. (Ed. Note: We got in trouble for sitting at a breakfast table reserved for one of the “weekly” holidaymakers.) We came right to Amesbury and checked in. We then got out our “Walking Britain” guide, after lunch of fish and chips, and a hamburger. We then took an “easy” walk from town to Stonehenge, involving 2 “detours” (wrong turns). The round trip totaled around 7 miles. We had wanted to take the bus back from Stonehenge, but missed the last one. (Our guide had the time wrong.) It was around 80 degrees as we started the walk, and sunny. Jill got hot, and tired later in the walk, but remained a trouper. The walk passed through farms, gates, etc., and over the River Avon twice. Saw a pheasant, and heard lots of rustling in the hedges. Our first view of Stonehenge was from over a mile away, sunlit through some brush far across the fields. (Ed. Note: What a great way to approach Stonehenge, via a long walk across the fields, with no sign of civilization.)
It clouded over and cooled off at this point, which was welcome. We approached Stonehenge via a wide path across the plain, which was all grass. The monument itself is amazing, when you consider the distance the stones had to be moved and raised. I hope the photos come out well; the light was sort of interesting, though the monument itself was not in the sun.
Unfortunately we had to walk an extra 2 miles home due to no bus. But while we were waiting for the bus, who should I see but Tom O’Hara, SPAC New York’s Division Manager! We shook hands and took photos. He was in kind of a hurry as he was on a tour bus from London and had only 20 minutes at Stonehenge. Amazing!!! (Ed. Note: this still ranks as our most amazing travel coincidence ever, and happened at the beginning of a friendship that continues to this day. Neither one of us knew the other was in England.)
We headed straight to the pub for a pint on our return. Had the place to ourselves and chatted with the bartender for quite a while. He had just finished working a reception this afternoon for a couple, one of whom works for Drexel Burnham in Manhattan. Haven’t decided where to go for dinner yet. The food so far hasn’t been as bad as we’d been told. Last night we couldn’t get into Henry VIII as it was booked, so went to Le Provence Cottage, which was acceptable. Went to a pub afterwards and walked home, down footpaths, in the pitch dark. Things the British Do Well
Things the British do Poorly
Day 9 – 9/25/89 We’re at the end of a long driving day, in Kilve, Somerset. We are in a beautiful B&B we found in a book of B&B’s we had with us. The day began with an ok breakfast in Amesbury. We drove off into the fog to search for white horses carved into Wiltshire hillsides. We couldn’t find horse #1 due to the fog. Horse #2 we couldn’t find either, and we were frustrated by the time we found horse #3. We hiked up to it, and had some marvelous views of the surrounding countryside. (Ed. Note: I think it was around this time that we burst into hysterics after hearing a guy on a radio call-in show describe how a wild weasel ran up his pants leg and “I though he was going after me vitals”.) We then looked at the map and realized we were quire near Castle Combe, so we dropped by. It was quite uncrowded, and remains unspoiled. I had remembered it being bigger, but it’s only 1 street! We walked around and admired the classic stone architecture, which seems to be from before 1600. We stopped in at the Manor House Hotel and asked to see some rooms. They were absolutely beautiful, with timbers through the rooms, fireplaces, etc. Unfortunately too dear at ₤150 per night, so we left. I heartily recommend it to my rich friends.
We then headed to Bath, which has been in existence since Roman times, but seems to have seen its heyday in the 1700’s. We toured the old Roman baths – quite amazing for their sheer size and hydro engineering. Like one big, 200 year old spa, with 10 huge Jacuzzis. Then up to the Circus and the Royal Crescent, which are entire blocks of identical buildings built in curves. Interesting.
After lunch in a pub at 3:00, we headed southwest through Wells. Didn’t stop for the Cathedral due to the fact that we wanted to get closer to the West Country. Stopped in a hotel in ???? and actually checked in before we brought the bags up. However, we looked around town and didn’t really like some of the locals, who appeared to be devil worshippers. That, coupled with the fact that there was no secure car park, made us decide to leave. Plus, we wanted to stay in a B&B. So we headed west, through some mining and industrial regions, in rush hour traffic. Ugh. Arrived here at 6 and had a lager in the library, overlooking the snooker table. Absolutely first class and beautiful. While Jill organized the clothes in the car, I took a quick walk over park of their 8 acres. Views of the sea, and numerous fields, with sunset! We are signed up for dinner – Jill is having Cheddar Soufflé and lamb, I am having tomato-orange soup and some kind of fish. We chose a wine from their list of over 300. Speaking of dinner, last night’s was excellent. Jill had pork over rice, and I had escargot followed by a Devon Pasty, which was excellent. Topped it off with a Grand Marnier in the pub across the street. Tomorrow a.m. we hope to walk down to the sea before breakfast. We plan to buy an excellent guide to British country hotels we saw downstairs, to help us in the future.
Day 10 – 9/26/89 Tonight we’re in Padstow, Cornwall. Today was quite active, and I’m glad to be “home”. Our hotel room, while not nearly as nice as the place last night, is overlooking the harbor from the “Custom House”. Seagulls, boats, restaurants, swans, etc. Church bells through the window sound nice. This morning we had an excellent breakfast alone in a sunroom. Muselix, eggs, bacon, sausage, toast, etc. (After a few games of snooker in the parlor.) Unfortunately it started to drizzle, so we drove down the lane to the sea rather than walking. Then it was off into Devon and Cornwall. First, we drove on some minor roads through Exmoor. Cloudy and drizzling slightly, which added to the mood. Not as wild as I expected, though.
Then up to Clovelly, where we climbed down into the town via hundreds of stone steps. A bizarre town, and I can’t imagine who would want to live here, what with all the steps and tourists. A pretty unusual town, though. We followed up those steps with yet another strenuous walk – to “King Arthur’s” castle at Tintangel. The “castle” itself is in total ruins, but the views were spectacular. (Ed Note: On a bluff 100’ over the water.) We were so tired by this time, we paid 40p each for a Land Rover ride up the hill back to town. In town, we also saw a 14th c. post office! Then back to Padstow where we found this hotel. Since we are halfway through the trip, we sat down and planned the rest of it. How time flies – it looks like we won’t be able to do all we wanted. But tomorrow a.m. we will call the hotels for the next 5 nights, so Jill won’t be so panicked when 5:00 rolls around. Plus, we’ll have a better idea of what we want to do each day. For lunch today we stopped in Bude and bough ½ lb. of aged English cheddar for sandwiches, from a dotty old bat. Also bought 1 liter of “Scrumpy”, an alcoholic cider I am drinking now. Interesting, but an aftertaste I don’t like too much.
Last night’s dinner was exquisite. I had cold tomato-orange soup – great. Jill’s cheddar soufflé was delicious, as were our main courses of lamb with blackcurrant sauce and filet of brill wit cream sauce and shrimp. Then fresh kiwis with kiwi sorbet, and wild apricots in brandy with ice cream. But wait, there’s more – a cheeseboard, Grand Marnier, and coffee! Talked with a couple from St. Louis who we later met in Clovelly. He once tried to do a deal with Hanson, and knew all about the company.
Day 11 – 9/27/89 Still cloudy in the morning, we made a quick getaway and departed without breakfast. We drove straight down the coast to Mousehole (pron: Moz’l), a small town west of Penzance. Lots of tiny streets you can barely drive one car through. Very quaint, and probably hasn’t changed much in the last 300 years. The last woman known who spoke Cornish lived here, and we saw her house. A restaurant named in several articles – The Lobster Pot – was not yet open.
Went to Penzance, where we phoned ahead for several hotel reservations. Also stopped at the brand new Safeway Superstore for a few groceries. The Cornish folks ahead of us were simply amazed at the UPC code reader! Drove up the coast to the town across from St. Michael’s Mount and had lunch. Then were able to walk out to the Mount, as it was low tide. The Mount itself is very impressive, especially considering it is still a private home. Jill was imagining herself as the owner. The views were spectacular. The gardens hold tropical flowers, which thrive in Cornwall’s warm winters. We took a boat off the island, as the tide had risen and covered the walkway. The tide here seemed to rise at least 8-10 feet from low to high. When it goes out it leaves sailboats balanced on their keels in the mud. Then up to Fowey (pron: Foy) which was another beautiful sheltered-harbor town, with many boats and narrow, winding, streets. Kids running to the ferry to take them across the river. Ferry seats about 10! We then took the ferry across the river, down many side roads and one lane roads with 15 foot hedgerows to reach our destination – Talland Bay Inn. Our room is a separate cottage – furnished ok but not great. The main house seems much nicer, and the grounds are magnificent. (Ed note: the cottage is for young Americans, the house is for the old Brits, I’m sure.) After we arrived, I poured a nip of the Glenmorangie and strolled down past the pool and croquet green to a beach with a great view. To the left ¼ mile – an old church with huge headstones, and 3 equestriennes galloping around a hill. To the right ¼ mile – 100 sheep grazing on several fields. And dead center – the English Channel (Ed Note: ?) fronted by red and green rock outcroppings.
Jill got cold and went in, so I went down to the beach where several people were fishing. Walking back up the road, I saw a red phone booth in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by hedges. So, called Mom & Dad. Just about ready for dinner. Last night’s was pretty good – Dave salmon steak and Cornish crab au gratin – Jill steak. Went to bed early after a walk around the village. One bothersome thing about Devon and Cornwall is the hedgerows. They block your view about 80% of the time. Also, I am surprised by the volume of traffic, especially around 5 p.m. Rush hour!
Day 12 – 9/28/89 For the first time, I am writing in the diary after dinner. Another busy day today; mostly driving. We began the day with breakfast in the Talland Bay Hotel in Cornwall. We decided we’d had enough of the coast so headed inland to Bodmin Moor. As we zipped across the moor at 60 m.p.h., we tried to imagine Mary Yellan of Jamaica Inn in a stagecoach in the rain at night, dashing across the moor.
We stopped at Jamaica Inn, which unfortunately was closed due to the early hour. However, we walked around the grounds and tried to remember highlights from the book. W also discovered that the Inn is a B&B – if we had known we would have tried to stay there. After Bodmin Moor, we headed east and south to Dartmoor. Dartmoor was much wilder and more scenic, with ponies, sheep, and cattle grazing right near the road. The views went on for miles and the clouds began breaking up. Looks like a great place to have a hike; unfortunately we were short on time.
On to Exeter, where we had lunch and walked around town. We toured the cathedral, which had beautiful stained glass and fan vaulting. More folks buried beneath the floor! We also stopped at the Ship’s Inn. Sir Francis Drake mentioned it in his memoirs – “Next to mine own ship, I like the Ship’s Inn best”, or something to that effect. Established 1587. And I thought McSorley’s (NY) was old! Then north on the M5 .What fun driving! I was doing 85 mph and being passed very often. Everyone very polite. As can be imagined, we got north quite fast. Arrived here at the Chase Country Hotel just south of Stratford - Upon - Avon around 5. The hotel is nice but not first-first-class. We jumped right back in the car again to try and see some Cotswolds towns down south. Drove to Chipping Norton, Upper and Lower Swell, Stowe on the Wold, but the most impressive was Chipping Campden. Thatched roof houses ca. 1500! After watching the sunset, drove back to Stratford for dinner. We didn’t feel like a stuffy dinner at the hotel, so went downtown for a pub bite. Stopped in one place and it wasn’t till we sat down that we realized it was a chain steak place! Meal was good, though. Then up to The Old Thatch Inn for a Guinness for dessert. Last night’s dinner was quite good. We had coffee and after-dinner drinks in the bar with a British couple who were quite friendly. Shower in the room tonight; Jill is very happy! This place looks like a 19th c. country manor. Nice views. The English need some design help with their décor – bedspreads in particular!
Day 13 – 9/29/89 Tonight I am writing from North Wales. I am writing from our own private balcony, overlooking a garden of the Bontddu Hall Hotel (pron: Bonthee), a large old manor house overlooking an inlet of Barmouth Bay. A scenic old Irish Setter is barking uncontrollably in the garden. (I guess this is where the phrase “barking mad” came from?) We had breakfast alone in the dining room in Ettington this morning – very good. We then scooted up to Stratford to have a look at Shakespeare’s birthplace. We expected it to be closed or crowded , but it was neither. So, we went in and had a look about. It was very nice inside, decorated with period furniture (1500’s). It was also informative, though I couldn’t imagine doing a whole day of Shakespeare houses. The gift shop sold Shakespeare Cliff Notes! (Ed. Note: We still like the “baby minder”, used to keep toddlers out of the fire while allowing them to roam, tethered to a pole.) Then we cruised up to Warwick to see the castle. The town was uncrowded, and so was the castle. Climbed many circular stairs to get to the top of the tower. They also had an exhibit in conjunction with Madame Tussaud’s, which displayed wax figures in the rooms as if they were preparing for a Victorian Garden Party. It was very well done, and the figures really brought the rooms and furniture to life. Also saw the dungeon, which was scary considering that some individuals spend 5 years “down in the hole”. Bought lunch supplies in a supermarket and had lunch by the side of the road out of town. Then on several “M” roads to Wales. Practically as soon as we crossed the border, the scenery changed to more mountainous and more beautiful. The mountains, though not exactly soaring, gave more interest to the landscape. About this time we pulled over to make more hotel reservations and snap a photo. Lo and behold, the camera is broken again! I shall complain vigorously on our return to London; meanwhile, it’s back to the backup camera. This hotel is large, with a 3-story central staircase, lots of paneling, and terraces overlooking the mouth of the bay. As may be guessed, the weather was beautiful again today – 68 and sunny! We are dining here tonight. There are birds singing in the garden, sheep grazing ¼ mile away, and the tide is coming in as the sun is setting. A splendid evening!
Day 14 – 9/30/89 Two whole weeks and hardly any rain yet – hooray! We began the day in Wales with another huge breakfast. Drove through the beautiful countryside till we reached Portmerion. Portmerion is an Italianite village built under the direction of one man, beginning in the 1920’s. It is interesting for its architectural eccentricity and for the fact that much of the building materials were salvaged from other sites. It was the set of The Prisoner, a 17-episode TV series about a captive ex-agent of the British secret service. We heard about Portmerion several years back when my then- boss Liz Quinn of Q-M Consulting lent me a tape of The Prisoner episodes. Though I had not heard from Liz since I left Q-M 2 ½ years ago, I sent her an anonymous postcard which read “I am not a number. I am a man. Signed #6”, which is a famous line from the show. She’ll be perplexed, to say the least. Then we drove through the rest of North Wales, which became less mountainous and less interesting when we got to the north coast. We were going to stop at Conwy for the castle, but were running a little behind so kept going. We reached the Lake District around 4 and drove up the coast of Lake Windermere. Very nice, but fewer and fewer places to stop the car. Ugh! Arrived here at Nab Cottage, outside Ambleside, shortly thereafter. Built in 1702 and a favorite of William Wordsworth! I am now sitting in the parlor, alone in front of a small fire. We took a walk along the lake across the street after we arrived, and sat on a rock and took some photos, then went down to Ambleside. Had a pint in a pub, then a big dinner (too big) at the Ambles Bistro. Then hit another pub where a rugby team was singing Swing Low Sweet Chariot, then Alouette, modified: “How do you like her? Broken nose, big buck teeth, curly hair, double chin”, etc. They were asked to stop when they got to “great big hooters”, unfortunately. They were loud, but harmless and fun. Then another rugby team started singing – “Under the Boardwalk”, and Simon and Garfunkel stuff! We went to another pub, then headed home. Last night’s dinner was good but not great. My lamb cutlets were tiny. I’m going to shower now since there’s one shared bath and a full house tonight. Almost everyone else seems to be still out in town.
Day 15 – 10/1/89 A beautiful day of touring the Lake District today! We awoke at Nab Cottage around 8. After careful study, we came to the conclusion that old is not always historical. Sometimes it is just plain old! Had an ok breakfast. Jill was in a bad mood because she didn’t sleep well. We left and headed back in and out of Ambleside to a waterfall just outside of town. Nice, but kind of inaccessible. Then we took a route through the Lake District that would rival the most scenic on any continent. We went up and down countless mountain passes, past lakes and mountains. People were hiking everywhere – young and old. From Ambleside to Kestwick, over Honnister Pass and on to Loweswater where we had lunch overlooking the lake. Then through Cockermouth and Whitehaven and over the spectacular Hardknott Pass. One lane road for about 15 miles, up and down 30 degree grades. At one point the grade was so steep that the tires skipped, going uphill, on dry pavement! The views were spectacular, the pictures tell the story.
Then down to Windermere and up A592 past Ullswater up to Penrith. We are staying at the Nunnery House, an 18th c. ex-nunnery recommended by my cousins Leslie and Allison, who were here 3 years ago. We are the only guests tonight, out of 7 rooms. They were not serving dinner tonight, so we went to the nearest town, Kirkoswald, for a pub dinner. Dinner was excellent, for ₤5.50! I had Yorkshire pudding with roast beef, and Jill had chicken and chips, plus a few pints. Then across the street to another pub for one more. Everyone seems to know everyone else in this small town.
Day 16 – 10/2/89 Tonight, the piece de resistance of our lodgings so far – Borthwick Castle. Built in 1430! We are staying in the topmost room – 110 feet above ground via circular staircase. The castle saw two notable events – Mary Queen of Scots and her third husband (Borthwick) were surrounded here and spent their last time together. Mary escaped past the surrounding forces by climbing out the window dressed as a pageboy, but was caught later (1567). Then in 1650 during England’s civil war Oliver Cromwell besieged the place and bombarded it with cannon before the Borthwick family surrendered. Cromwell’s letter offering surrender terms is on display downstairs!
Today we awoke to a breakfast alone at the Nunnery. Then we took the “Nunnery Walks” behind the inn, which took us to the River Eden and up a tributary with magnificent waterfalls through a gorge. Wordsworth wrote a poem about the gorge. We went on a “forbidden” path that was roped off, but obviously well-trodden, through the lowest part of the gorge. Beautiful! Then up to Hadrian’s wall. Eighty miles long, what’s left of it. Saw several sections and an ongoing archeological dig at Birdoswald. Then stopped at a park information center where a woman recommended the Steel Rigg section of the wall (which we could walk on) followed by a route to the north through Northumberland. Drove through magnificent scenery to Bamburg Castle, which was impressive from the outside, but not on the inside – filled with “Do Not Touch” signs. It seems that the resident family just wants your money. Then called this place, and they had a room free. So we drove up through more great scenery and are now 12 miles from Edinburgh. Had an ok but very expensive dinner with 4 other Americans at a common table. My woodland pigeon appetizer had a shotgun pellet in it! After dinner, we had drinks and coffee in front of a hearth that could sleep 6 comfortably. The dining / common room has a 45 foot ceiling and a minstrel gallery. I was imagining it as the scene of many medieval banquets; I’m sure it was, in reality. Weather still great – sunny / partly cloudy and 60 degrees. I forgot to mention that the camera fixed itself in Wales 12 hours after it broke. Ate dinner with fellow Americans who are scared to drive! I feel like a pro. From listening to them, I feel as if we have seen much more of the country than they have. 81 steps up a spiral staircase to our room in the tower from the main floor (pant).
Day 17 – 10/3/89 A relatively quite day. We began with breakfast as usual, which we ate with our fellow American travelers. Took a few photos and left around 10, minus ₤150. But worth it. Drove into Edinburgh, where we got lost for a while before finding Hollyrood House, where we took a tour. The tour was very good, with a small group. Saw the spot where David Riccio, Mary Queen of Scots’ advisor, was stabbed 56 times. Amazing ceilings from the 1500’s. It’s all starting to blend together – history overload. Then we drove up the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle. It seemed quite disorganized in terms of the exhibits and information given. Nice views over a gray city on a gray day. We were about to leave the city when we saw a Scotch Whisky museum of sorts, where we paid for a tour. The tour was quite informative if a little hokey. We tried to find a wollen mill in Leith, just north of Edinburgh, where there were supposed to be good deals, but with no map of the city we couldn’t find it. So we drove south several hours to where we are now, in Headlam, at Headlam Hall just north of Yorkshire. This was our second choice, but is actually very nice. We have a large suite for only ₤54. We took dinner in Gainford at the Queen’s Head Hotel / Pub / Restaurant. Very nice, and cheap as always at a pub. Had a few pints as usual; my gut is beginning to show the strain of eating and drinking for 3 weeks straight. Last night my wisdom tooth awoke me in great pain, and the aspirin were in the car 110 feet below. Ouch. I won’t say whose fault the aspirin was, but her name begins with J. Weather today gray and 50’s cooler up north.
Day 18 – 10/4/89 Had our usual breakfast at Headlam Hall, but the breakfasts have gotten smaller as the trip gets longer. This morning was gray again, as we headed south to the Yorkshire Dales. First stopped at Barnard Castle, a town that was having its market day today. We strolled through the town and I bought some Coverdale cheese from a cheese vendor. We stopped in a sweater shop but didn’t buy, mostly because we already have enough sweaters at home.
On the way out of town we saw signs for Teesdale Force, a large waterfall. So we cruised through the countryside for what seemed like hours, then finally gave up as we headed further and further north, away from Yorkshire. Then headed south over one lane roads, through the Yorkshire Dales and into Yorkshire Dales National park. The National Parks here are not like in the US – they are just large parcels or land – no campsites, information centers, etc. Unfortunately it was a little overcast and foggy, so it didn’t look at all like the pictures in the James Herriott books. We stopped for lunch in Lehborn, and for a change had lunch in a pub – Dave haddock and chips, Jill chicken and chips, one pint of lager and back on the road. Cruised down to Harrowgate, another Herriott town named something else in his books. We were going to walk around but it was rather large and now very small-townish. It was getting to be late afternoon, but we decided to go to the Bronté birthplace in Haworth. We got lost in heavy traffic near Leeds and gave up in favor of this hotel, the Riber Hall, in / near the Peak District. Tonight we’re pubbing it again as the menu here is quite expensive and we are tired of huge meals. Actually, wee are both getting a little tired of touring all day. The driving is tough on the winding roads, and Jill is constantly looking at the map to determine the next turn. From the news, it looks as if it may rain tomorrow or Friday. Oh well, it wouldn’t be England without the rain, and we’ve been very lucky. The room tonight is ok, the place seems pretty old. The floor slopes down at least one foot from the edge to the center of the room! The private bath is downstairs.
Day 19 – 10/19/89 Our wind-down day at the trip’s end. Had an omelet breakfast and hit the road. Last night was a culinary disaster – we went out in search of food, but couldn’t find any. The only restaurant in the area was Chinese, and we said What The Heck. My Hot and Spicy Pork was neither and mostly gristle. They asked if I wanted chips with it! Only in England. I should have been tipped off by the fact that several Brits in the place were having steaks. Today we basically just cruised straight to Ruth’s, arriving at noon. We showered, repacked, etc. and headed for London around 2. We were searching for a parking spot near the Tube when – guess what – we witnessed a robbery! Something we’ve never seen in 30 years in New York. Jill saw a guy in a ski mask run from a pharmacy with a bag, and jump in a getaway car, with a few Indians in pursuit. By stopping to watch, I stopped traffic behind me, and the getaway car. He rammed a few cars in his zest to escape. My first concern was that the rental car not be damaged, so I pulled over, ripping off the side view mirror on a parked car. Fortunately, it is on a hinge for just such an eventuality. The guy behind me hit me but did no damage. I got the license plate number as the getaway car escaped. (Ed. Note: I dropped off the plate number in the pharmacy and bolted before I could be detained as a witness.) After that adventure, the Royal Mews of Buckingham Palace seemed rather tame. Saw all of the Queen’s horses and coaches. By this time it started raining, so we went to a pub to plan strategy. As it was around 4 and tourist stuff was closing, Jill tried to call Ed Collins from Hanson NY several times to take him up on his offer for dinner in London. No luck. So we had a few pints, then headed to the Leicester Square area where we had dinner in a Garfunkel’s and hit a few more pubs. Met an American couple who were just starting their 3 week trip, whom we gave pointers to. Got home around 10:30 and slept on the floor, as Ruth has no couch or spare bed. It was just as comfortable as I remember it from college days!
Day 20 – 10/6/89 Were now somewhere over the Atlantic on the way home. Returned our car uneventfully and were two of the lucky ones chosen by computer for a full security check. Had to empty our bags and carryons twice. Metal detectors twice, once with hand scan. Show passports to at least 6 people. Took about 1 ½ hours to get from check in to gate. (Ed. Note: Obviously the Brits, and other Europeans on our later trips, knew to start taking security more seriously way back then. Why not our government?) Bought some duty-free booze. Assuming all goes well, Bob will pick us up at around 3:00 Eastern, after a 7:10 hour flight. Then it’s home for a weekend of mail reading, laundry, and lawn mowing. Back to the grindstone!
In England:
Cheese List:
Scotch List:
Brew List (Partial Listing)
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