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Editor’s Note: Ah, the innocence of youth! In the days before your ATM card worked overseas… before you could use the internet for research… when there were still travel agents… when we used film cameras… and when everything was fun and new! This trip was a very long drive of about 2500 miles. We took Rick Steves’ 21 day itinerary and cut out about a week, and then lengthened the route by flying into Frankfurt instead of Paris to take advantage of frequent flier tickets. Very aggressive, as we found out, but we were young and ambitious! Once I get all the slides scanned, the photo integration with the diary will make it much more entertaining! Enjoy.
Day 1 8/27/94 Well, we made it. It was a long first day, as usual made longer by a few events. First, I was stung by a wasp or bee the night before we left. By the time I was getting ready to leave Nextel (3:30), my arm had swollen considerably and showed no signs of stopping. So it was off to the “Immedicenter” at the advice of my colleagues, for a big shot in the butt of penicillin, a tetanus booster and some other stuff – what a way to start! Got to the airport and checked in 2 hours early as requested, and had to wait an extra hour before boarding. Then we were delayed an additional 1 – 1 ½ hours by a malfunctioning door sensor. Finally took off at 10:30. (Ed Note: Funny that I didn’t mention that we flew First Class, on the upper deck of a 747, with great service and great sleeping conditions!) Since the trip was to France, we of course took a plane to Frankfurt!?!?! This was because I could not get free tickets to Paris, and it unfortunately necessitated a 6 hour drive through half of France to reach our final destination. The drive itself was non-eventful, pretty much through farmland the whole way. Tolls – about $50! And we used about $60 worth of gas at $5 per gallon. Our car is a spiffy looking, but noisy at high speeds, Volkswagen Toledo. Arrived in Paris and had little trouble finding the hotel, due to advance route planning and Jill’s navigating. Got off track a few times, but never “lost”. Got a nice parking spot right across from the hotel – incroyable – and checked into the Hotel Jacob on Rue Danube. The hotel itself is nice, but not much, with a B&B price of $170 per night. We have a small room, because I requested the courtyard rather than the street. We relaxed a while, then walked down to the Seine, over the Pont Des Arts and Pont Neuf, and back up into St. Germain for an orientation. Had dinner at the Restaurant Des Beaux Arts, which had been recommended by someone on Prodigy. It was a bistro – packed in elbow to elbow - and quite honestly, the food was not that good. We ordered a la carte salads, followed by Coq au Vin (Jill) and Boeuf Bourgignon (Dave). Mine was better than Jill’s. After a glass or 2 of wine we relaxed a little, but it was too crowded, especially when the girl at my right elbow began smoking! I ordered in French; pas de probleme. Walked up and down Boulevard St. Germain and stopped in a café for a Grand Marnier and a beer. Watched the world go by. Then back to the hotel for a conversation in French (ok, 4 sentences) with the desk clerk about breakfast. Watched a little TV, including silent footage of the Liberation of Paris in 1944, which was 50 years ago last week.
Day 2 – 8/28/94 Jill’s getting ready and I am about to… then it’s off to see the city, starting with Notre Dame! Had our breakfast of croissant, petit pain, beurre, confiture and Jus D’Orange at the hotel. Walked down to the Seine, and over the Pont Neuf to Ile de la Cite. Took the Michelin tour of Ile de la Cite and Ile St. Louis – 2 islands in the Seine. The highlight, of course, was Notre Dame. We went in during a Sunday Mass, which was a plus and a minus – a plus because we got to get a feel for the place with a choir, organ and priests all in full swing. A minus because we could only stand in the back and couldn’t walk around. I’m surprised they let tourists in during the service at all. Walked down to the end of Isle St. Louis. Checked out the exterior of many 16th – 17th c. houses. You’re never more than 2 blocks from the river. Saw the Conciergerie, where Marie Antoinette and 1200 other nobles were held prior to being guillotined in the Revolution. When we heard bells in the distance an hour later, we figured Mass was out at Notre Dame – went inside a few minutes later, but lo and behold they were still at it. Walked around outside for another 15 minutes – they were still at it. We gave up. The rest of the interior will be something to look forward to next time. Back again for a walk along the Seine on the Rive Gauche – lunch of Croque Monsieur (Dave) and salad (Jill) in a brasserie. Was the waiter trying to rip us off for 100F when he gave us our change, or was it an honest mistake? Only he knows for sure… (Ed note: he was trying to rip us off.) Now over to the Rive Droite, and a stroll past the Louvre (weather too nice to go in), and through the Tuileries Gardens. Interesting statues, and kids sailing toy boats in the fountains. Walked past the Place de la Concorde, where over 1300 heads rolled during the Revolution. Then up the Champs Elysees.
Tout Paris was out because the weather was so fine. The first half of the Champs Elysées is in a park-like setting, then it quickly makes a transition to a Fifth Avenue-type atmosphere, except with wider sidewalks. We walked the entire length of the boulevard, until we reached the Arc de Triomphe. Walked around, under and through the Arc, and spent quite a while recuperating from our walk. Then it was down under for our first trip on the Metro. The Metro has a lot in common with the London Tube – easy to understand, safe, and quiet due to rubber wheels. People also break rules with impunity – we saw smoking, radio playing, and dogs – just like New York! Exited the Metro at St. Germain de Pres and decided to check out the St. Germain church which is next to the Metro exit. It is the oldest in Paris, dating to the 1100’s. Came back to the hotel, took a nap. Strolled around, looking for a place for dinner. Some places around here are a little too touristy, but we found one – the receipt says “La Belle Epoque” (but the name began with a “V”) that wasn’t too touristy. I had rack of lamb (very good), Jill had veal Cordon Bleu (good). Jill had crème brulée, and I had ice cream with Armagnac-soaked prunes for dessert. That, plus salads and a good bottle of Bordeaux, made for a good meal. Came home and saw soft core porno on the public TV station!
Day 3 – 8/29/94 Yesterday was not enough. We managed to do a lot today as well. Slept late and skipped breakfast. Headed for the Eiffel Tower via Metro. Got there at about 10:30 and bought a ticket for the top. The view was spectacular – the weather a perfect 75 and sunny. You can see every sight in Paris from the top.
Strolled around the Champs de Mars and took some photos. Then headed back to home base. After a brief respite, we took a boat cruise on the Seine, which gave us a chance to rest and was very scenic. Took lots of photos. Afterwards, went to the top floor of the Samaritaine department store, where there is an observation deck. Jill looked for a souvenir pocketbook, but decided against it since there was nothing under $200. The exchange rate is poor right now for the dollar – everything is very expensive. Burger King’s ads brag about a burger, fries and Coke for the equivalent of $6. Our hotel is $170 a night, and it’s hard to get a good dinner for less than $50. It should be cheaper once we hit the road. After the Samaritaine we Metro’d to Montmartre. The surrounding area was a little too blue collar for Jill’s taste, and it was very touristy. However, there were some quiet streets where I got a few photos. Sacre-Coeur church was also quite splendid. When we got back to the hotel we realized that the Louvre won’t be open tomorrow but that it is open tonight until 10. We hurried over around 7:30 – 8:00, but unfortunately discovered only one wing is open – and none of the “must-sees” are in it. We entered anyway, and spent about 1 ½ hours looking at 17th c. art, sculpture and the old medieval Louvre walls. The place is really amazing inside and looks nothing like what you would expect fro the outside – quite modern and large spaces. Saw some Reubens, but few other artists I recognized- but I’m no art critic. By this time we were pretty tired and getting hungry, so we left. Saw the pyramid, illuminated, from the outside. The space below is very well done, but we both think the above-ground structure is an interesting mistake. Dragged ourselves back to St. Germain and sat down to dinner at Muniche, which got 13 toques in our Gault Millau guide. We both ate from the 125F prix fixe menu and skipped wine. (Ed. Note: egads!) Dave – oysters, steak and sorbet, Jill – Shrimp / avocado salad (sans shrimp), roasted chicken and raspberry mousse. I liked my sorbet and oysters, the steak was ok. The staff was friendly, despite the fact that we needed some help with menu translations. Jill’s packing and groaning (along with the elevator), our window is open, and there are bells in the distance. (Well, there were 10 minutes ago.) I’ve finally caught up with the diary – tomorrow we leave for Versailles- but not till I see the inside of Notre Dame. In the a.m., we exchange Jill’s blow dryer (now that the one from the German trip works), and we buy a couple of Eiffel Towers (3”, not full size!) I must say almost everyone in Paris has been very friendly. I can almost get along in my poor French, and I think the effort helps. The food has been good but not great – maybe because we don’t want to spend $400 on a meal. So far so good!
Day 4 – 8/30/94 Woke up, had our continental breakfast, and headed up to Monoprix to exchange Jill’s blow drier. We had brought the one from the German trip with us, but it didn’t work. Turns out that the reason it didn’t work was that the outlet was bad, but we had already bought a replacement. My pidgin French got us to the understanding that they could not give us a refund, but would give a store credit. This was determined by the manager, who was summoned with a little dinner bell. So, we bought Vivian’s baby shower gift. Walked back to Notre Dame, or should I say, hiked. It was longer than I remembered. Got to see the inside this time, and it was pretty amazing, especially considering construction began in 1163 (?). The stained glass was really nice, but I think that was redone in 1958. I could tell you if I had the Michelin guide, but someone forgot to pack it. Bought a couple of little Eiffel Towers for the Christmas tree. Then went back and checked out. We had to give up our prime parking spot on the street that didn’t cost us anything – you don’t have to pay for Parisian parking in August. Drove out of Paris with no problem – didn’t get lost on the way to Versailles. Driving here doesn’t seem to be as bad as everyone says. (Ed.Note: If you can drive in New York and New Jersey, you can drive anywhere in the world.) Versailles was amazing due to its size and opulence. The lines were long when we arrived, so we walked though the gardens for a while – all the way to the canal and back. Coming back uphill was rather hot. The weather was perfect again. There are gardens out in each direction from the palace – the famous fleur-de-lis ones flanking left and right. Had lunch on a bench of a jambon baguette.
By the time we were ready to go inside, the 100-yard line was down to nothing. We toured the state rooms, with the climax being the Hall of Mirrors. Every surface in every room was gilded, mirrored, carved or frescosed. Unbelieveable! No wonder there was a Revolution! Waited around for the fountains to come on, but they didn’t cooperate. Left about 3:40, got lost in the town of Versailles for a few minutes, then headed south. Got to our hotel in the Loire valley, in the town of Cande-Beuvron, around 6. Just pulled over into the first place we saw. Our room has 2 twin beds, quite nice overall, for around $50 (250F). The restaurant was closed, and the place down the street was going to be $100, so we searched out a smaller place in the next town. Appetizer of Terrine of Fowl, which we both thought would be soup, but was a mixed cold cut – head cheese type product that tasted like liverwurst. Very good. I had trout (very good), Jill had chicken (not very good). Then a cheese course, followed by dessert (Diplomat for Dave, mousse for Jill), and Grand Marnier, for about $50. I think we may have to spend more for that truly spectacular meal, though. Drove home and went to bed early.
Day 5 – 8/31/94 Got up and out of our twin beds about 7 – 7:30, packed up and headed out at 8:30, sans breakfast. Headed south 5 minutes to Chaumont Chateau, which I had seen last night fully illuminated on the way home from dinner. It wasn’t open until 9:45 and we realized also that it was not one of the 3 chateaux recommended by Rick Steves. So instead, we headed north, past the hotel, to Blois. Went to the Boulanger / patissier and got a baguette, 2 small tomato quiches, and 2 sugar profiteroles. Then went next door and got grapes and 2 chesses. Found a post office, bought stamps and mailed postcards, then found a supermarché and bought some paper towels, bottled water, and cookies. All set! Chateau time! The first one we hit was Chambord – very large, many turrets, not crowded – and once we were inside it began to pour rain and became very dark inside. With the thunder pealing through the clouds, it seemed as if we were in Transylvania. There was a double spiral staircase designed by Leonardo da Vinci that was the focal point of the Chateau.
It was still pouring when we wanted to leave, but we waited a few minutes and it cleared enough so we could get back ½ mile to the car without a soaking. Then it was off to Chateau Chéverny. The highlight was the beautiful furnishings – contrasting with Chambord which had few original furnishings. Chéverny’s first 2 floors were filled with priceless antiques. The 7th generation of the original family still owns Chéverny and lives on the 3rd floor.
Before touring the chateau, we stopped at the kennel and saw (and smelled) their pack of hounds. They look like Basset hounds, with long legs. Sound like them too. The interior was spotless, with great furniture, like an 18th c. oak dining room, French bowed chests of drawers, 17th c. working grandfather clock, etc. Signed document from George Washington. Then on to Chenonceau. It was much more crowded than the other 2. More photogenic, though, being perched over the River Cher. Took many photos. Some of their furnishings were amazing also- especially given the fact that they were not protected from the general public. Paintings by Rubens hanging on the walls! (ED. Note: Must have been copies.)
While we were inside it started to pour rain, but it stopped by the time we left. Gardens were very nice, filled with impatiens. The main court of the chateau spans the river and served as an access point between Nazi and free France in WWII, to exchange prisoners over the river. Thought about spending the night in the town of Chenonceau, but left for Amboise per Rick Steves. Amboise was too crowded though. We also attempted a couple of country lodgings (1 closed, 1 too small) and the town of Montlouis before heading back to Chenonceau. Got a small room with a squeaky bed for 280F ($54) at the Bon Labourer Hotel. For dinner we each had vegetable potage (soup), which was a tasty broth, no vegetables. Had salad too, and duck leg for dinner – pretty good. Cheese course and a very good nougat ice cream with raspberry sauce, followed by Grand Marnier topped it off. The room, which was noisy in the afternoon, was by this time quiet, and we dropped off to sleep.
Day 6 – 9/1/94 Skipped breakfast at the Bon Labourer and headed out before 9. As we were leaving, I had a conversation in Franglish with an older guy in the parking lot about the merits / faults of Japanese cars. We were approaching Tours at 9:18 (Ed. Note: huh?), when I remembered that they did not give us back Jill’s passport when we checked out. Good thing! Although we wasted an hour going back to get it, it could have been much worse. Filled up with gas ($5/gallon), went to Tours and bought slices of fresh ham, cheese, baguette; changed $500 of travelers’’ checks. By the time we hit the road it was 11:00. After about 1 ½ hours of driving, we stopped for a stroll in the medieval town of Chauvigny. Next stop was the quaint old town of Mortemart. It had just finished sprinkling rain, so we ate our picnic lunch in the car. Walked around for a minute, then hit the road again. The next stop was the town of Oradour sur Glaine. The old town is a monument to the 600+ villagers who were killed by the Nazis in WWII as a reprisal for the killing of one of their officers. The people were rounded up and shot, and the whole town was burned. Everything was left just as it had been the day of the atrocity. Each house was labeled with the names of the occupants and their occupations. The church was also burned, and the bell and clapper were a melted mass on the floor. The visit was very moving. It began to rain as we headed for the car. (Ed. Note: our car had German plates, and I remember hoping that it would not suffer any damage in the parking lot.) After (too) much more driving, we finally reached our destination in the Dordogne valley. We had planned to stay in Sarlat or Beynac, but we stopped at a nice looking hotel just outside of Les Eyzies. The place (Les Glycines) is very nice on the outside, has beautiful gardens, and very nice terraces, bar, sitting room, reception, etc. The room is ok, and we once again had to settle for 2 twin beds due to late (5:30) arrival. The dinner menu looked good, so we made reservations. We were not disappointed. The food was superb, the best all-around meal we’ve ever had. Jill had the 120F ($25) menu – she chose a salad, pork medallions, melted goat cheese on greens and raspberry sorbet. All excellent, except she doesn’t like goat cheese. (Ed. Note: She does now!) I had a shrimp / avocado plate, Vol-au-Vent (puff pastry with mushrooms and sweetbreads), beef stuffed with duck, cheeses, and an apricot “passion”. All amazing. You could taste everything individually. The plates were immaculately prepared – little veggies, purees, etc. They looked so good I didn’t want to eat them. With a bottle of wine, it was overall superb – for about $85. And so to bed.
Day 7 – 9/2/94 Skipped breakfast again (still full from last night) and went to the office of the last major prehistoric cave–art site open to the public – Grotte de Font-de-Gaume. The idea is to make reservations for the following day’s tours – only 100 people are admitted to one, and 200 to the other, per day. Unfortunately, tomorrow was already booked, and we could not wait till Sunday. Hope it’s still open next time we’re here – the most spectacular – Lascaux – is closed to the public to maintain proper humidity levels. (Ed. Note: We eventually made it back. See the 2002 France diary, Day 18) Drove to the medieval city of Sarlat, which is very well preserved, if a bit touristy. Walked around, took a lot of photos, found a replacement Michelin guide, and bought lunch of cheese, ½ bottle of wine, bread and chips. Have ham from yesterday too.
I had the brilliant idea of hiking (20 minutes) to the ruined Chateau de Commarque with our picnic. The chateau has a view of its neighbor, Chateau de Laussel. The hike was ok, except we had to cross 2 creeks – one on a broken bridge and the other on 2 logs – and Jill almost panicked and refused to budge for a while. But she persevered. It was fun walking around the ruins. Spiral stairs, huge walls, caves, etc. The pictures should be nice. Then we went into the Abri de Cap Blanc, a prehistoric (14,000 year old) gallery of animals carved out of rock. It was a little weird since it was us and one French guy, and the guide spoke French. But it was impressive anyway, though I would have preferred the paintings. Then drive over to the Dordogne River itself at Beynac for the views 500+ feet over the river. Had a lime ice – yum. (Ed. Note: We both have a fondness for Citron Vert sorbet to this day.) Did not go in, however, due to Chateau burnout. Then it was downriver to La Roque Gageac, a very old town (aren’t they all?) built into the cliffside. Walked up into the town, took lots of photos, then down along the river. Started driving to the town of Rocamadour – another cliff town – but turned back after we realized the distance. Came back to Les Glycines over small country roads. Then went to the pool for a chilly dip and to bring the diary up to date, and lie on the chaise. We’re now getting ready for another spectacular dinner. We originally planned to spend $200 for a dinner at an 18-toque restaurant in town – just to say we had the best possible meal once on the trip. But after last night, we don’t see how it can be topped at any price. So off we go… Later… Our second dinner at the hotel was very good, but not the religious experience the first one was. Jill had pea sop, sliced duck, salad with goat cheese and mixed sorbet. I had a salmon paté, a slice of salmon, steak and veal, cheese, followed by pears marinated in wine. Yumm. Then another walk around the garden and to bed.
Day 8 – 9/3/94 Woke up to a dense fog. As we checked out, the Madame D’Hotel told me it would clear and be a beautiful sunny day (in French). An hour or so into our drive, she was right. Drove out through Sarlat on market day. We probably would’ve stopped but there was no parking, and we just wanted to get underway. South to Cahors, where we bought tins of cassoulet and walked and drove over the medieval Pont Valentré ca. 1308. Drove around town, parked illegally, and bought provisions of bread, cheese, water, juice, etc.
Then on the road again, stopping at the fortified hill town of Bruniquel for a quick stroll up and through the town. About 10 minutes down the road, we saw a sign for a view point leading up a narrow road, so we headed up and found it 50 yards off the road (no parking, of course). We parked on the side of the road, walked down, and spread our picnic cloth out and had our lunch with a view of a small town down below. Roosters crowing and bells ringing. All of France stops dead for lunch from 12-2. There’s no traffic, no one on the streets, shops all close. If you’re in a town walking around, you can smell food cooking, see families at their tables, and hear silverware clattering. Quite a contrast from the US! After Bruiniquel it was on to Albi. Saw the St .Cecile basilica, a monstrous brick fortified church built between 1180-1280. The carvings and paintings inside were tremendous. Then went inside the Toulouse-Lautrec museum. It was a little disappointing since it contained mostly sketches and no competed oils. Back into the car yet again for 2 more hours of driving to our final destination in Carcassonne. We got lost once or twice, and took many small side roads through many small villages, looking for a hotel outside Carcassonne. Jill found a listing for a small town outside the city limits in the Gault Millau guide. We got to the town but couldn’t find the hotel, so I stopped a woman walking a dog and asked for directions. We were on the street with the correct name, but she had not heard of the hotel in her own small town. Uh oh. She asked to look at the guidebook, and it turns out there is a town of the same name in a different region 2 hours away – they even have the same street name! She was extremely nice, and told us the only hotel in town was good – she was wrong, it was a dump! So we headed to Carcassonne. After a little driving around, we located a Rick Steves-recommended hotel at the gates of the medieval city – checked in and immediately hit the piscine (“beach”, meaning pool). Ahhhh. Then strolled around the medieval city (also from 800-900 years ago) before dinner of salad, cassoulet and flan (Jill) and sorbet (Dave) at La Table Ronde, shaded by trees on a terrace. Came back, called Mom & Dad, sat down to write. A walk around the ramparts tomorrow morning, before the tourists arrive!
Day 9 – 9/4/94 A much mellower day today. Got up around 8 and took a walk around the battlements in Carcassonne before the tourists arrived. They are higher than those at Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber (on the last trip), but lees scenic and photogenic. We walked halfway around, then back through town, which was just awakening. Bought our daily bread. Got a sticky bun on the road – yum.
Hit the road and stopped briefly at Minerve (we had a Minervios wine last night) but didn’t go into town – Jill was tired and had a headache. Got on the autoroute at Beziers. Stopped for lunch at a rest stop that had a museum, and the facade of a theatre from Nimes! The museum was of the remains of a Stone Age settlement uncovered while building the autoroute. The façade looked ancient Roman, but was from 1827. Had our usual bread, cheese, grapes, chips, water in the brilliant sunshine with a heavy wind (the Mistral?).
Got into Arles nice and early around 2:00. The Hotel Regence is ok, overlooks the Rhone River, and comes with a funny little hunchback porter who showed us the room, held our parking spot in the lot, and brought our bags up to the 3rd floor. (Marcel) We went out and toured the Roman amphitheatre (ca. 0), that used to hold 20,000, now holds less but they still have bullfights in it. Unfortunately, the next isn’t until the day we leave France. Then on to the Roman Theatre, which was impressive, having been looted for stone in the year 500, and then buried from 900-1800. Relaxed with a beer in a café in the Place du Forum, where Van Gogh painted one of his paintings. Then walked to a Provencal museum filled with portraits of very ugly women, among many other things. Lots of stuff from Provencal life in the past. Then back to the hotel with a stroll along the Rhone, followed by a nap. We’re now getting ready to go out for dinner and are planning the day tomorrow. Later… Went and had 2 beers in a café overlooking the main steps of the amphitheatre, watched the tourists and local kids. Then went up the street and had pizzas – Jill had chorizo, onion and olives, Dave had seafood. And a bottle of local wine, of course. Very good.
Day 10 – 9/5/94 Slept till about 7:30 and cleared out of Arles early – about 8:30. (Ed. Note: The “one that got away” on this trip was an antique hourglass we saw through an antique shop window… but we didn’t want to wait around for the store to open.) Drove to Les Baux – a mountaintop dead city where everything had been carved from rock – including houses. The wind on top was blowing at around 40-50 mph. Combine that with the lack of guardrails on cliffs and it’s a wonder that someone doesn’t die there every day. We got there before the busses, as usual, and I had fun climbing the rocks and stairs. Nice views. Close by, down the hill, we stopped for the Roman ruins at Glanum. An arch and a 50’ funery remembrance piece that is the best preserved of its kind. There used to be a city here, now just these 2 pieces… (Ed. Note: in a local grocery, we saw baseball caps from the Middletown, NY Police Dept. for sale!) After Glanum we went to the Pont du Gard, a 2000 year old Roman aqueduct that rises 160+ feet over the Gard river in multiple levels. You can walk across it on all levels, including inside the watercourse. Pretty cool. We went over on one level and came back on another.
We ate our picnic beforehand from the river level below. Bought the picnic outside Glanum and had cheese on baguettes (as usual) plus proscuitto-type ham. We thought about getting a hotel in the area, but this is still western Provence. So we headed east through Avignon (much traffic, relatively speaking) into the Luberon region made famous by Peter Mayle in ”A Year in Provence”. (Footnote: earlier in the trip we had overheard a tour guide say how Mayle was run out of Provence after his book was published in French last year. The locals were not flattered by their portraits.) We picked out a hotel in the Gault Millau that was out of town and had pool, view, and restaurant. It took a while to find it, but we did and now we’re here – the St. Paul Hotel outside Viens. The pool’s really nice, if a bit cold. The room is ok. We expected a little more luxury, but for $55, who’s complaining? It’s adequate and comfortable, with a view of the valley. The hotel is stone and could be 10 or 150 years old. We had dinner, which was very disappointing. Good thing we only got the 3 course. The salad was good, but the rest not very good. Thought we were in England. Slept from 11 – 9 a.m. though, due to the quiet.
Day 11 – 9/6/94 Since we’re staying here 2 nights, we took our time getting up. Had breakfast of croissants, rolls, juice, and coffee, then sat by the pool a while. Took a dip. Around 11 we left for the “Grand Canyon de Verdon”. It was a little further than we expected. We stopped for lunch in Moustiers, where we ate in a little café filled with locals rather than tourists. All the tourist cafes required a 3 course meal, which we were not up for. (Ed. Note: Had we known, we should have tried to get into La Bastide De Moustiers, which was just then coming onto the restaurant scene as one of the top restaurants in the world. THAT we would have been up for.) I had a seafood tagliatelle (noodles and cream sauce) – excellent, and Jill had a country salad.
Then we entered the Grand Canyon – it most reminds me of Yosemite, though less lush. Provence is very dry – it reminds us of California. Hot too – about 80-85. In case I forgot to write it down – the last week’s weather (since the Loire) has been just about perfect with sun and clouds, 70-80 degrees. Anyway, back to the Grand Canyon. Lots of views – some over 1000 feet down. The canyon gets pretty narrow in spots and you can see the road on the other side. No guardrails, of course! Saw German rock climbers ascending El-Capitan-like rock faces in their bare feet. The light here is weird – people speak of a different quality of light in Provence. It is more like a glare, as the sun seems to be very low in the sky all day long. There’s a haze (smog?) that hangs in the air.
Spent several hours at the Grand Canyon, and as a result it was a long 2-hour drive back. Plus, we wanted to try and find another restaurant for tonight’s dinner. It took us a while but we succeeded – there’s an interesting-looking Provencal specialty restaurant up in town – on a dirt road right around the corner from the boules court. We’ll keep our fingers crossed. Later… Unfortunately, bad luck struck. We arrived at the restaurant but it was their night of “Fermeture” (closed). The other restaurant in town, Le Petit Jardin, was also closed. So, we ended up back at the hotel. This time we ordered A La Carte and dinner was better. I had a Salade “Perigourdine” that had some kind of cooked meat on top (probably better that I didn’t ask what) (Ed Note: gizzards), and Jill had tomatoes and mozzarella which was very good also, but had about 6 lbs. of tomatoes which she couldn’t finish. Then I had veal with mushrooms (good, except too much sauce) and Jill had pork medallions (very good). For dessert I had a raspberry glace and we both had Grand Marnier. Went outside for the second night in a row and listened to the silence and looked at the amazing stars overhead. You can clearly see the Milky Way, which is unfortunately impossible at home…
Day 12 – 9/7/94 Woke up and was on the road by 8:30. Drove through the eerie early morning light (sunrise lasts till noon, then sunset starts) and hit the autoroute north. Took some photos.
We started to run into the Southern Alps in about 2 hours – it got much more scenic once we reached northern Provence. Just drove and admired the scenery through Grenoble. Stopped in Albertville, home of the 1992 Olympics, and had lunch in a sidewalk café – Jill pizza and Dave an “Assiette de Pays”- an assortment of cheese and sausage from the region. After Albertville, the scenery began to get really spectacular, climaxing with numerous views of Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest peak at 15,000 feet, as we approached Chamonix. Chamonix was a little larger and more crowded than we expected. It was impossible to park. We stopped at one Gault Millau-recommended pace, but the room which had a great view of Mont Blanc was a little too weather-beaten for $115. Finally found a room at La Sapiniere Hotel for about $150 half pension (dinner and breakfast). The chef has been here 27 years; I hope he’s not too tired to cook us a good meal. Walked into town and got info at the TI (Tourist Information) place for our hike tomorrow. Hopefully the weather will cooperate, though the TI person said rain is expected. All afternoon it was clear with white clouds surrounding Mont Blanc, but now it’s starting to cloud up around the mountain, with blue skies elsewhere. We took a walk along the valley, next to a raging snowmelt river. Although it’s hot in town (80+), walking next to the river felt like air conditioning, since the water feels like about 45 degrees. Came back into town, had a beer at a café, and watched the world go by. Will cross our fingers and hope for the best for tomorrow – if it’s great, we go up the Mont Blanc side for the view from the top (or near it), if it’s ok we go up the other side and hike, and if it’s raining, we’re outta here. Let’s hope for the best. As I finish writing, I’m on the balcony of our hotel watching the clouds on the mountain turn pink. Sun set in town over an hour ago due to the steep mountains surrounding us – but it’s still very light and pleasant.
Day 13 – 9/8/94
Last night’s dinner was very good. It turns out the place is run by some kind of British ex-pat family, and most of the guests are British. We took the half pension deal when we checked in. We had a carrot-potato-leek soup which was fresh, if under seasoned. Then Jill had some kind of French Toast with melted cheese which sent her cholesterol soaring, while I had Vol-au-Vent – both very good. The main course was lamb rolled up in a pastry shell, very well presented and tasty. We had to slow our waitress down – everyone’s courses were served very fast – not the French style. Jill had a flan type thing and I had a very large slice of pear tart. Also, we had an expensive bottle of Merlot (190F = $38), which was very good. Then we played a game of 8-ball on the world’s smallest (5-6 foot) and most expensive ($2) table. Dave won. Woke up around 5 a.m. or so and Mont Blanc was bathed in a pink glow – the sun was rising somewhere and it was reflecting off the clouds. Very eerie. Woke up around 8:30 to a steady rain. Went downstairs, had breakfast, and read the weather report – clearing tonight and more rain tomorrow. So, we cleared out of town as planned. Quel dommage! Drove all the way up to Burgundy in a teeming downpour. Had our alpine picnic lunch, bought last night, in the car at a highway rest area. Bummer! Stopped briefly to walk around Brancion in the rain. It is a small medieval village. It really opened up once we got out of the car, and we retreated pretty quickly. I was willing to try the small hotel there, but Jill wasn’t. Drove through several small Burgundian towns looking for a hotel. Tried 2 but didn’t like them, one nice one was full, and one 4-star was too expensive. Oh yeah, we also stopped and checked out an 11th century church in ???. The bell tower was listing about 5 degrees. The bell rope hung right down to the altar. Only one stained glass window. Pure Romanesque. Finally found the town of Mersault, which has 4 hotels. You’ve drunk their wine, now check out their town. It’s very nice, and we’re staying in the most expensive place at 260F ($55). Another family-run deal. No restaurant, so we’ll be going to one of the other hotels. Took a walk around town, then stopped in a bar (in hotel #3) for 2 beers. When we walked in there were 3 older locals, when we walked out there were 10 young locals (16-21) playing pinball and video while the church bells chimed and the vineyards ripened 50 yards away. The dichotomy of modern France illustrated! Jill’s playing Solitaire (first time we’ve broken out he cards) the church bells are ringing 7 p.m. and we’re bother ready for dinner and some Mersault Premier Cru wine. P.S. Saw a guy in a Duke shirt crossing a 13th c. bridge the other day, so I said “Go Duke” as I passed. He said “Pardon?”, and I pointed to his shirt, but I’m not sure he got it. I thought he was American. Lots of non-American people with American garb on – the Yankees are especially popular. Saw a hat from the Middletown Police Dept o sale in a mom & pop grocery outside Glanum the other day! P.S. The rain stopped around 5 and it’s partly cloudy. Cross the fingers… Saw a guy making a mattress in a shop as we passed by. Also several vintners with barrels stacked up. Later… Our meal last night was very good. Went to another of the hotels in town. Jill had Jambon Persille for entrée (sort of like a terrine), Boeuf Bourguignon, and her best crème brulée yet. We also had an amuse bouche of some sort of turnip / potato thing that was very good. I had a ham/chicken Croquette, followed by a fishy piece of fish, very good pork medallions, cheese (the stinkier the better) and chocolate mousse slices that were like heaven. Also we had the local Mersault wine which was good but expensive ($40), and a white, which we probably should not have ordered for our only night in Burgundy. The only minus was very slow service – 2 ½ hours!
Day 14 – 9/9/94 The driving is beginning to get to me. You don’t realize how big France is until you circle it in a car. Got up at 8 and it the road by 9 to Beaune – the next town north. Walked around town checking out all the wine accessory merchants (like a super Wine Enthusiast catalog) but bought nothing. Had my eye on a temperature / hygrometer set but it was in Centigrade. Went into the Hotel Dieu, which was a hospital established in the middle ages during the plagues, that remained open until 1971. Very nice exhibits of medieval pharmacy, patient care, and surgical stuff. They were the state of the art for their time. There was an incredibly detailed Last Judgment polyptic, which the terminally ill could look at on Sundays. Shows the separation of the good and evil to Heaven and Hell. That’ll make you repent your sins! Jill had a fromage tart with jambon for a late breakfast. I probably haven’t mentioned it, but there have been some great patisserie breakfasts in the last 2 weeks. Yum! Then we went into the Marche des Vins, per Mr. Steves’ recommendation. It’s a wine tasting experience where you pay 50F per person, get a tasting cup souvenir, and taste as much wine as you like. All the wine is under the label of one merchant, however it is produced by many different wineries. You are led into the caves in the basement where about 35 stations are set up, each with a bottle, a candle, and a spittoon, and a dozen or so bottles of the wine. You may proceed at your own pace. Pretty much the only light is from the candles, so it’s fairly dark and romantic. We skipped most of the whites and headed for the reds. They got a little confusing after a while, as there is nothing to cleanse your palate with. We ended up buying (probably tremendously overpriced) a $20 and a $55 Burgundy. All the wine here in Beaune seems very expensive, and it’s so much easier getting it at home. As we left, a group of Englishmen were discussing the merits of the most expensive bottle – they had written tasting notes on every one of the 35! Since we had a late breakfast, we headed up to Dijon after touring Beaune’s Notre Dame. Pretty big, but then Beaune is Burgandy’s wine capital. Dijon was disappointing – too much of a big city. Parked – underground – then took a ½ hour stroll and left. Then the day’s big drive of 3 ½ hours to Colmar. Lots of traffic entering the city, but once we parked not so bad.
Oh yeah, stopped at a roadside stand for steak and frites on the way – steak a little underdone, but ok. Frites good. Tried a couple of hotels in Colmar, but all full. Eventually found the Ibis, which is a French chain – like a Holiday Inn, but rooms half the size. Designed for efficiency! Once you get over the initial shock it’s not so bad – quite modern. Took a walk around Colmar, with its half-timbered houses – quite extensive, since it was spared bombing in WWII. Will get up early (?) and take photos before the tourists arrive.
Tried to call Continental Airlines from Dijon and again from the hotel, but gave up – I must be missing something. Got the number from Information, but sometimes it doesn’t go through, other times wrong number. Gave up and dialed the States to confirm instead. Walked around Colmar and discovered the Restaurant Bertholdi for dinner. Jill had salad, chicken, and sorbet – salad good but chicken pretty weak – what do you want for 98F? I ordered salad, steak au poivre and a délice caramel a la carte and was pleased. Had the $30 bottle of Burgundy we should have had last night – good. Lots of German influence here – food, architecture, and language. Just like the Swiss influence in the Alps. Now to bed!
Woke up to a light drizzle that subsided by the time we hit the streets around 9. Actually, we resumed the weird weather of bright sun mixed with clouds and occasional rain. You never know what it will be like from one minute to the next.
Walked around Colmar and took photos before the busses unloaded. The town is large, but not a lot of hotels or restaurants. The “Little Venice” area was particularly interesting. Old half-timbered houses overlooking a canal. Saw some Bertholdi statues – it’s his hometown – he sculpted the Status of Liberty, and almost all of his statues have a raised arm! Went into a patisserie for breakfast and then into Monoprix for some food oriented souvenirs. Then hit the road.
Stopped in 3 Alsatian towns – all surrounded by vines (including the front and back yards of “suburban” houses), and the center of town is all the old half-timbered look. Stopped in Riquewihr, Hunnawihr, and Ribeauville. All along the Route de Vin. Had a cheese coated pretzel, and Jill bought enough grapes to make a case of wine for 10F. Much more picturesque than I expected for Alsace. Very nice. Then headed towards the Rhine River, which divides France and Germany. Had our last picnic on a levee overlooking the river. Headed up to Strasbourg and crossed the border without even slowing down. Changed our remaining Francs to D-marks and hit the autobahn towards Frankfurt. The plan was to stay just north of Heidelberg in a country area we stayed in last time. But someone whose name begins with “J” decided that wasn’t good enough, so we headed closer to Frankfurt. Couldn’t find a decent hotel, so ended up at the $180 airport hotel, paying $20 to park. What a ripoff. However, they had a restaurant in a separate building with a very Black Forest atmosphere. We had a couple of beers and I had wild boar medallions (very good), Jill had veal stuffed with ham (very good).
Day 16 – 9/11/94 Well, that’s about it. Woke up around 7:30, got to the airport at 9:15, went through extensive security, and just took off from Frankfurt. We are once again in First Class, in the upstairs cabin of a 747, which olds only 8 people (the upstairs cabin, that is.)We just got out hot towels and are preparing for a multi-course meal – it was pretty good on the way over. The trip overall was great. A little too much driving though. Next time, we’ll fly to Paris, spend a couple of days, then get a headquarters out in the countryside and stay put in a region – probably the Dordogne. Until next trip – au revoir!
Stats: Driving distance: approximately 2500 miles $1 = 5.25F = 1.5DM Total cost: Estimated at $3500, actual - $4900, with FREE airline tickets. |
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