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(Ed. Note: Another great trip. We loved the people we met at our house in Catalonia (Spain), but loved the French scenery much more than the Spanish. Another trip planned at the last minute, and we ended up in two large and unique houses that were a long drive from many sites of interest. But I’ll probably never get to have a chateau to myself again – unless the dollar can hit 1.30 Euros again in my lifetime.)
Day 1 – 9/2/2000 Seems like every diary starts out the same – “whew, what a day”. Dave went to work at BNY on Friday and met Jill and Kristen at Newark Airport. Caught British Airways to Barcelona via Heathrow. Dave got a total of about 2 ½ hours sleep the whole night, Jill less, Kristen more.
We were sort of rooting for a flight delay because if we were more than 2 hours late, biztravel.com would have refunded the cost of our tickets. Flights were right on time, though, with no problems other than lack of sleep. Kristen did very well other than kicking Dad awake several times. Got into Barcelona about noon. Bags took a while to come out. Then got the Avis paperwork taken care of in about 5 minutes, got cash at an ATM, and got the car – a green Renault Scenic mini-minivan. Took a while to get out of the rent-a-car lot because it was so packed. Some guy tried to pull some kind of cell phone scam on me but gave up when I didn’t speak Spanish. The rent-a-car attendant tried to tell me about it afterwards but we didn’t share a common language. (Ed. Note: Other than him bending his nose to the side in the universal “crook” sign.) Barcelona outskirts were kind of depressing – sort of like Mexico City outskirts. Third World looking. Airport was not so hot either, but serviceable. Got lost for about 2 minutes but soon found our way.
Headed about 1 ½ hours north to the area around Gironella. We’re staying at a rural house on a farm. We had detailed directions to the house – “La Rovira”. As we went down the last dirt road something didn’t seem right. Basically, we were driving on the dirt roads of someone’s farm. We could not find the house. After about 15 minutes of driving around the farm’s roads, a car appeared with a man and a boy who spoke no English. But we managed to understand that we were going the wrong way for the house and should follow him. Back to the main road, 1 km back, and turn off on another (gravel) road to a small inn. Jordi brought us inside and asked if we wanted a drink. We asked for cervesas. He was a little unkempt in a dirty Barcelona Olympics t-shirt. He brought back his wife, son, and the beers. I talked to his wife – mostly in French, with some English and Spanish thrown in. She’s very nice. They’re about 35? She brought us to the house down the hill and showed us around. (Link to rental agent.) Too big for us with about 5 bedrooms, it’s somewhat dark but nicely furnished in rustic style. Three stories, built supposedly around 1200. Tile floors, uneven stairs, fireplaces – it’s nice.
We told her we’d be at the hotel for dinner with the guests at 9:00 – the earliest. After she left we realized 9:00 was about 5-6 hours away and we were already very tired. We unpacked and went into Gironella – the nearest town – about 5:30 for groceries. The store opens in the a.m. and then from 5-8 p.m. The town was abuzz with 2 cafes (the old man’s café and the young folks café), and a boules league. Maybe it was my imagination, but it seemed like people looked at us like they could tell we weren’t from around these parts. I don’t think they’re used to tourists. Came back, Jill had wine ($1-5 per bottle in the store) and we had an appetizer plate of cheese and jamon from the store with olives. Unfortunately, not “knock your socks off” good. Went to the hotel at 9 for dinner. The waitress spoke English to us when we told her we were from La Rovira. We had a pizza-type vegetable topped thing, followed by chicken (Jill) and beef (almost like a small pot roast) – Dave. Bottle of red Rioja and Dave had a white cheese with honey dessert while Kristen had chocolate ice cream. Down the hill and a 12 hour sleep.
Day 2 – 9/3/2000 Slept till 11:00, then all took our time getting up. We all fended for ourselves for breakfast. Kristen did not approve of the ultra-pasteurized milk (unrefrigerated); tastes fine in coffee. As we got ready, several groups from the hotel walked down to our house for the view. Jordi also stopped by with a basket of fresh veggies fro their garden. Tomatoes, onions, lettuce, zucchini and a pepper! Very nice, and it was fun to go to the second floor window in response to his whistle and say “Buenos Dias, gracias”. (Almost all my Spanish.)
Didn’t leave the house till after 1:00. Took the drive in “Thomas Cook Driving Guide to Catalonia” for central Catalonia. It was a nice if unspectacular drive through Cardona, Salsona, Sant Llorenc de Morunys and Berga. Went through several tunnels, which were new and exciting for Kristen. Passed by a green water reservoir and drove over its dam. Spanish towns do not seem as welcoming as French towns. They don’t make you want to stop the car and get out. Maybe it’s the mix of old houses and Franco / Socialist crap that seems to be in every town. We’ll have to see as the week goes on. Also, the people stare, which I now remember reading about in a guidebook. Makes you a little paranoid. Came home about 4:30 and made lunch – scrambled eggs, ratatouille, from the local veggies, and cheese. Jill took a walk while Dad and Kristen explored the house. Listened to music on TV channel 8 (mostly western pop), played backgammon, then dinner at 9 in the “good good” restaurant for about $60 (I don’t know, I never saw a bill).
I had a duck / mushroom / pine nut cannoli-type thing, Jill gazpacho. Kristen had a cheese / meat cannoli plate that mom mostly ate. Jill didn’t like the vinegary gazpacho; I did. Main course – Jill smoked duck breast, (too smoky for Jill) and fish from the Mediterranean for Dave. Magda the waitress, with assistance from another waiter, translated every menu choice for us. Jordi stopped by to try to tell us we could ask his wife Nuria if we want any toys for Kristen. Poor guy feels bad because he doesn’t speak any English. We should feel bad because we don’t speak Catalan! Dessert of some kind of ginger / veggie / cake type thing (Dave – good) and chocolate ice cream (Kristen). Foolishly followed by tea and coffee that kept us up till 1 a.m.
Day 3 – 9/4/2000 Arose at 9, Dave with a slight sore throat. It rained last night – probably the first time here in a while. It’s quite brown and you can see the trees dying. Breakfast of eggs, etc., Jill oatmeal, Kristen nothing. We were on the way to Montserrat by 11. Took about an hour to get there on the same road we arrived from the airport on. Montserrat just sort of juts out of the ground 2000 (?) feet in the air like a saw blade. There’s a monastery complex at the top with a “Black Virgin” statue many hundreds of years old. Touch it and you’re guaranteed children. We took a cable car up from the valley floor that was pretty spectacular. Kristen liked it. At the top we climbed another 250 steps to the basilica. The massive bell chimed at 12:50 – turned out it was for the Boys’ Choir, similar to the Vienna Boys Choir. We squeezed into the back of the church, which was packed. Jill and Kristen could not see, and left. I stayed for the 10 minute singing. Very nice but too crowded.
After everyone vacated we went back into the church to look around. You could see the Black Virgin on a second story above the altar, with a line snaking to fondle her. The line was too long for non-Catholics who don’t want more kids, so we didn’t join in the fun. Found a large plastic playground for Kristen and I called Mom & Dad to check in.
Had a very nice lunch at the Hotel Abat Cisneros - a good find. It was in our guidebook. Dave – salad and good paella, Jill bean salad and mixed vegetables. Kristen – pork, noodles with shrimp and French fries, from the Kids’ menu. We skipped coffee and dessert because it was already 3 p.m. Took the tram down, then drove back to the top, in order to follow the route in the book. Views were spectacular and sunlit. Once we were on our way down the other side we realized we would not be able to complete the route. I had told our hostess we would be home by 5 and she was to come at 7 with her 2 boys, toys for Kristen, and her mother-in-law (our landlady.) Went to Igvalada, described in the book as a “leather town”. Must be where they make it, not sell it. Very large and industrial. By now we realized we were in jeopardy of not returning by 7. Took what looked like a shortcut on the map that ended up that ended up being a twisting, turning route that had gorgeous views of Montserrat in the distance. Finally got to Manresa, another very large town with lots of 6 p.m. traffic. Felt like I was back in New York. Finally cleared the traffic in about a half hour and had 45 minutes to get home. Pulled into the hotel parking lot at 6:59 and got home but no guests. It’s now 8:30 so I guess they came and went or never arrived. We’ll find out at dinner at 9:00.
… Well, about 5 minutes later Nuria arrived with her boys Jordi and Miguel (?). Ages 3 & 5. They brought some toys for Kristen, though they had asked “Why does she need toys when she has a ping pong table?” The boys were out of control; Jill said that if they were hers she’d be in an institution. Dinner of Veg and pork (Jill), octopus terrine and pork (peeg) (Dave). Enrique struggled with his English but it was all downhill after he drew us a picture of an octopus to illustrate one of the first courses. Kristen’s favorite joke is “waundry woomp”
Day 4 – 9/5/2000 Long driving day today. After eggs, we drove east – first to Vic, then on towards the coast. Tried to find the Tuesday market in Vic, but it’s another very large town and we gave up. East of Vic we had a very long descent through the mountains and many tunnels. Some very nice semi-alpine scenery. After the mountains we hit the plains and stopped for gas. It was one of those stations on both side of the road – our side was automatic only. Unfortunately, the screen was hard to read, plus in Spanish, and I was having trouble (after it ate my credit card.) But the attendant came from across the highway to help out and got us squared away. Very helpful guy; even pumped our gas. Our first stop on the coast was Lloret de Mar. A super-tacky British resort town complete with a Burger King, mini golf, etc. On the recommendation of the internet house rental guy, we drove up the coast to Tossa del Mar, a very nice town with 12th c. wall, old town, beach, boats, etc. After driving through the extremely narrow streets, we walked around and had a very nice lunch in perfect weather, outdoors. Dave – Gazpacho, fried squid – Jill Catalan salad and roast chicken.
After lunch we walked across the street to the beach to book a glass bottom boat tour. The waiter from the restaurant came across and found us – I had left my credit card behind. To my “gracias” he just said “de nada”. (Ed. Note: This was extremely nice, and very observant, of the waiter. We were about 100 yards from the restaurant.)
Took the boat from 3-4 p.m. up the coast. The water was crystal clear and azure blue. Very surprising to me. I thought the Mediterranean was polluted. We didn’t see much in the way of fish but went in a few caves and had a nice ride. We found a local playground for Kristen to stretch her legs, then drove up a very scenic coastal road to Sant Feliu. It was sort of like the California coast with no guardrails. Beautiful water and weather. Skirting in and out of many coves. Then a long (2+ hour) drive back home, arriving at 7 p.m. just like yesterday. Around 8:30, Nuria and her mother-in-law Dolors Pratt arrived. Dolors manages the rental house. We had them in for about 20 minutes. We straightened out the whole dual signature travelers’ check / deposit thing (they had not yet cashed them), paid her the remaining $550 in cash, and had an English / French / Spanish chitchat. I asked who took the black and white photographs around the hotel. Turns out to be Dolors’ father, who is 94. Some great photos. He used to make a living as a photographer. They told us a great story about how he used to drive until a year ago. Apparently he knew the certification people, so they would automatically re-certify his license every 6 months, along with his doctor. All the people in town knew this, and they would pull over when they saw him coming! “Muy Peligrosa!”
They also told us we can stay in the hotel Friday night for free, since we’re only getting 6 nights out of the house rental. We were planning to go to France, but how can you say no? These people are so nice, the food is good, why not? Then to top it off, while we’re eating dinner Jordi comes over to our table, gives us $100, and says “This is from my mother. She says the house for September is only $700, not $800 like July and August. Plus there’s only 3 of you for 6 nights. Please take the $100 back.” Unbelievable. What a great place. Jill had vegetables and steak, I had fish soup and Catalan sausage. Followed by lemon sorbet. Slept from 11-8 and I think this may be the last day for my cold.
Day 5 – 9/6/2000 Lazed around this morning as the cows grazed right up to the house with their bells like wind chimes. The morning fog is burning off and it looks like another great day. Jill put a load of laundry in and I went up to the hotel pool with Kristen. I attempted to nap, then caught up with diary writing. Drove up to Ribes, about 1 ½ hours away, around noon or so. Stopped at a hotel south of Ribes for lunch – Dave Sausage (ok), salmon (over-sauced) and Granny Smith apple sorbet (very good). Jill – Esclavata (roasted peppers and eggplant on toast, very good) and roast chicken. Kristen French Fries followed by a ride on the electronic pony outside, and the playset. Tried and failed to find the 12th c. church carved doorway in Ripoll and headed to the train in Ribes – the Cremiallant. The 4-car train was nearly empty for the trip up. It was on regular rails the first half and a cog railway the second. The second half of the trip affords spectacular views since you are climbing steeply into the Pyrenees. No snow, though. Must still be some up top, though, as there are many rushing streams. At the top we had refreshments and walked around the valley (Val de Nuria, same name as our hotel hostess). The valley is pretty, but unfortunately the sun went behind a mountain just after we arrived. Also a construction helicopter hovered over the main building, creating quite a racket. We went down an hour later. The car ride home was typical twist-n-turn every 100 yards and we made it home around 8:30. (Ed. Note: Kristen fell and had a tantrum up on top, which also adversely affected the mood.) Dinner at the hotel – Jill roasted veggies and an omelet, Dave 5 “little blue fish” (sardines?) whole, and I forget what else.
Day 6 – 9/7/2000 Cold still won’t go away, and it’s getting annoying. After talking to the cows we drove off around 11:30 for Seu D’Urgell. It’s high in a valley in the Pyrenees. Went straight to lunch at El Castelle – a Relais & Chateau property. Got great seats outside with a view of the town and mountains. Their “limited” outside menu still allowed me to have a big slab of foie gras, a French ham and cheese sandwich and raspberry sorbet and coffee. Jill – salad and ham sandwich. Very good.
Afterwards, we walked around the shuttered town (Spain closes from 12-5), then got Kristen a “Mi Poqueno Pony” at a toy store, and Dave 4 Cuban cigars for $10 at a tobbaconist. Also went to the park where the Olympic kayaking events were held in 1992. Our first visit the water was running very slowly and it was a little depressing. Later when we returned for a drink, they had the rapids turned on and kayakers going through. Pretty cool. Then it was time, as usual, for our 1 ½ hour drive home. The drive is getting a little old. We’re central to a lot of stuff but Catalonia is so big we spend a lot of time driving. Also, there are many fewer “stop in” sights where you just see a sign for an old church, or whatever, and pull in. We find France, or at least the Dordogne, more tourist-friendly. Back home for dinner of beans with onions and peppers followed by lamb chops (Jill, very good) and gazpacho and whole calamari (Dave).
And so to bed.
Day 7 – 9/8/2000 Today was our day to leave La Rovira and go to the hotel. Checked into our spotless new room around 10 and went to the cool pool. Rescued a toad from the pool and Kristen chased him around a while.
We’re all kind of tired of driving around so much, so we just went to Berga (the nearest major town) for lunch at 1:30. We looked for a restaurant that was in our guidebook but couldn’t find it. Found a classy pizzeria playing opera, and Jill had a Margherita while I had a 4-Fromaggio. Coffee, Crema Catalan (like crème bruleé) and an ice cream bar for Kristen. About $20. Jill tells me it was very good but I couldn’t taste much due to taking Afrin for this damn cold. Went to a 12th c. Romanesque church near town, that you approach over a 12th c. Romanesque bridge. Then a steep climb on foot up a hill to the church, that of course is only open from 11-2. Bummer. Hiked back down and came home. Tried to nap but failed, so caught up with the diary. Weather has been great. Everyone we have met has been super-nice, including the other day’s lunch waitress who tried to talk us into visiting her hometown 2 hours east. But we’re ready to leave. Too much driving in Catalonia, and the sites are very spread out. However, you definitely get the impression that this is an alive, vibrant economy – witness all the building. But southern France, while more of a “dead”, tourist-driven economy, is more tourist-friendly We’re ready – tomorrow. Backed into a fence post in the parking area and broke 2 tiles. Oops. Jordi doesn’t seem to mind. He also told us there’s a gasoline delivery strike in France. Fortunately we’ll be close to the border. Dinner – Jill - cold vegetable soup and roast beef with apple butter. Dave – Spaghetti Bolognese, sausage with white beans. Good as usual.
Day 8 – 9/9/2000 A night of total silence in the hotel… we were the only guests. Followed by eggs for breakfast. We said our goodbyes to Nuria with kisses after settling our bill. Grand total about $180 for one night in the “good good” restaurant ($60) and 6 nights in the hotel restaurant with wine and water! Plus a night free in the hotel!. I asked, and it turns out we were indeed their first Americans. Gave a 10,000 PTA tip to Magda and Enrique – our 2 waiters who were so nice. About $50. The summary is that the people of Catalonia were great, the food great, but the area needs some improvement to the tourist infrastructure. Plus it seems like we were centrally located but equally inconvenient to everywhere. Here is a link to the house in Spain Back up the Pyrenees, through the Tunnel De Cadi, fill up with gas at the top of the Pyrenees and coasted down into France. We hoped we would find France as green and tourist-friendly as we remembered. But it was eerie to see the difference just as we passed the now-abandoned border crossing station. France was different entirely. Every building was not shuttered. Roads went through towns instead of skirting them. Stores were open midday!
We stopped in Ax-les-Thermes, bought ingredients for a picnic and ate it on a bench next to the river. Baguette, ham, cheese, etc. (Ed. Note: I asked Kristen why she was giving her mom such a hard time about everything, she told me “because it’s fun”!) Then we drove (coasted) down the French side of the Pyrenees, passing spectacular scenery at every turn (few pull-outs, though). Unlike Spain, many signs indicating castles, churches, etc. to view as you pass by. Got into Quillan about 3:00 and soon found the town of Belvianes where our chateau is located. We couldn’t find the chateau, though, so I parked at the church and got out to walk around. Found a boy who directed me to it. The front door is in a village courtyard, and is basically a very large cement wall, with a few shuttered windows and a large double barn door. I told a couple sitting in chairs across the courtyard that I was renting and asked for Mme. Bournet. I was shown an intercom which I pressed and Mme. Bournet told me the place would be ready in 20 minutes. Instead of waiting around, we went to the supermarché, where we screwed up the process by not weighing our veggies and causing the checkout girl to have to go back to weigh them. Oops, how embarrassing… but the people on the checkout line seemed more amused than pissed off. Back to the chateau, where we were given the 1 ½ hour tour by none other than the owner himself, Christian Ravier, a doctor from Marseille. He and his wife love to travel, and she loves to shop at top boutiques around the world, judging by the various stuff around the house from Harrods, Maxims of Paris, etc. They also collected towels and ashtrays from Las Vegas, Marakesh, the Carribbean, etc.
The house is huge – 3 main rooms downstairs, each about 30’x30’ with an 18’ ceiling. Nicely furnished with period antiques, artwork, painted frescoes, silk rugs, etc. Gourmet kitchen ca. 1981 with huge BBQ fireplace. Seven bedrooms upstairs; 2 have new marble baths with every amenity. There’s also a third floor and attic we have no access to. All filled with antiques and collectibles, like someone lives here.
Outside a pool at a cool 70 degrees and a large yard that’s overgrown and in need of renovation. Nice terrace. Nice views. I have to close all the downstairs shutters nightly. All for the price of a house at the Jersey Shore – 14,000 F, about $2000. The exchange rate is great, everything is so cheap! After our hosts left we had a drink by the pool, a dip, and Jill cooked a vegetable tian with the veggies left from Spain, plus some French fries and bread. And so to bed.
Day 9 – 9/10/2000 Woke up to another bright blue sky around 8 or 9. The sun doesn’t come over the mountain till around 8. After breakfast, the first stop on the tour was Chateau Puyvert, a ruined castle ca. 1200. Stopped in a small town for 3 croissants, then had a picnic lunch after driving another 45 minutes to our next destination – Grotte de Niaux. Niaux requires a reservation, as they only allow 20 people in every 45 minutes to see the attraction – cave paintings from 12,000 B.C. We were on the 12:45 tour – supposed to be in French but rescheduled to English since most of the rest of the tour was from an English tour bus. It was quite a hike into the cave – about 1 km – and no walkways, few stairs, uneven ground, etc. Jill had quite a time with Kristen (who did quite well); I held the flashlight. No other lighting. At the end were 37 pictures of bison, antelope, goats, etc., that were quite well executed. Very impressive. Took about 2 hours in and out. Kristen loved it; it was too much stressful work for Jill. Next stop Montsegur – where 200 Cathars descended after siege to be burned alive by 10,000 Catholics. Not my idea of a fair fight. We did not do the 90 minute hike to the top. We admired the view, had refreshments at a 1-woman café, and Jill called home to find that unfortunately her grandma Millie has fallen and broken her hip and is in the hospital. Tried to get gas at a scab gas station but the auto-payant would not take any of my 4 credit cards. (Ed. Note: now I know the auto-payants only take debit, not credit cards.) Went home, had a beer and a Cuban cigar, and went out to an excellent $50 dinner at the best restaurant in town (per our host). Jill – salad, duck filet, citron sorbet, tea. Dave – salad, smoked salmon, steak, excellent cake, coffee, wine, water. “Au Pierre Lys” restaurant. Kristen was very well behaved. Came home, watched French TV (most shows dubbed American, though I’m sure it kills them) and to bed.
Day 10 – 9/11/2000 Awoke to another perfect day – blue sky and 75. Kristen and I went exploring with flashlights around the house. Went on the swing, went in the pool, wrote in the diary. Momster made us eggs for breakfast.
Around 12:30 we headed north towards Limoux. Walked around the arcaded main square and found a neat store where we got a serving bowl (olive theme), wood hand painted tray (fruit theme), paper towel holder (hen theme) and Christmas ornament (reindeer theme) for $100. Oh yeah, Jill and I had a picnic lunch while Kristen slept in the car – what a treat. Just like old times. Took another Thomas Cook drive east of Limoux. Started out with some nice small towns and turned into road rally time on single lane Corbieres roads with little of interest to anyone but the driver. Stopped in the town of Termes and admired their 12th c. church. Wanted to pull the bell ropes but refrained. Wanted a café but there was none. Admired the high water marks on a main building – this year’s flood was in June, about 2’ up the building. (8’ – 10’ above the riverbed.) One from the 1890’s was about 20’ above the riverbed. Terminated the Thomas Cook tour with te intention of visiting a dinosaur museum in Esperanza. Instead, stopped at the pretty Chateau D’Arques. Kristen and I climbed to the top of the 4 story keep and waltzed while I hummed the Blue Danube Waltz.
Stopped in Quillan at a café for beverages. Too noisy on the main street. Came home, finally caught up on the diary while smoking another Cuban and enjoying a nice $4 bottle of Corbieres wine, while Kristen does her own whining. Dinner tonight at Les Trois Quilles. Clouds and a little thunder, but no rain in sight. … Trois Quilles was a little disappointing. Dave – snail terrine, rabbit, good cheeses, fruit and sorbet. Kristen – veggies, omelet, vanilla glace. Jill – veggies, veal, sorbet.
Day 11 – 9/12/2000 Woke up to clouds and a little rain. Just had eggs (Dave) and oatmeal (Jill) for breakfast, Kristen abstaining.
Headed to the dinosaur museum to see some dino stuff. They had a couple of nice exhibits. Some life size models. Kristen got a souvenir mini-Madeline hat from the adjacent chapeau (hat) museum. We didn’t go in. This area used to be a center for hat making 100 years ago. Bought bread and headed east for our outing. Cloudy but not raining. First stop – Chateau Puilaurens. The hike up looked too intimidating for a 3-year-old so we had our picnic in the very nice picnic area. Cruised down the D117, missing our turnoff for Chateau Peyrepteruse and ended up taking the D611 north into Corbieres country, interspersing views of grapevines with castle views. Jill hopped out and stole a few ripe grapes – the harvest is just beginning. They were very sweet – not what I expected. You could eat a whole bunch. Went to the town of Cucugnan – a cute place, pedestrian only. Just as we were to exit the car it began to rain, and us with no umbrellas. We drove into town despite the “Sauf Riverains” signs (Residents Only), but turned around after stalling the car on a narrow hill. Oh well.
Next stop – our planned hike to Chateau Peyrepteruse. But when we got there it was the same deal as when we got to Chateau Queribus ½ hour earlier. Closed due to storm. Well, there was some distant lightning, and rain. By now, everyone’s restless from driving too long. But one last drive through the Gorges de Galamus. A one lane drive with pullouts over a 1000’ cliff. Pretty spectacular but would have been better in the sun. Went back to Quillan and browsed in the antique store. I’m surprised we haven’t seen more. Not much of interest. I liked a clock but Jill didn’t. Went to a clothing store but Kristen vetoed Jill’s choices. Filled upon gas (strike ended yesterday) and got a few odds and ends at the supermarché. Came home for wine and the last Cuban. Played “Spiny Dogfish” with Kristen in the garage. Getting ready for dinner tonight at the last Michelin-listed restaurant in town. Hopefully we can return to Peyrepteruse. Kristen is being a real trouper – having fun when possible and being well-behaved at other times. The woman in the store yesterday called her “trés sage”; same compliment she received 2 years ago in Sarlat. I think it means “very calm” or “well behaved”. But she gets on Momster’s nerves anyway; she really know how to push her buttons. No rain now, let’s hope for good weather tomorrow.
Day 12 – 9/13/2000 Rain went away overnight and we woke to sun. Good day for a trip to the coast. Left at a record-early time of 9:30 and headed to Collioure via Perpignan. Made Perpignan in about an hour, successfully negotiated about 20 roundabouts and headed south to Collioure near the Spanish border. I guess we got into town around 11 – 11:30. After parking, we went to the large open-air market (it was market day.) So much stuff to buy, so little time left on the trip. We did manage to buy an assortment of olives (delicious), lots of soap to display in our new kitchen, ½ dozen oysters on the half shell (delicious and only $2.25) and bread.
Had a picnic overlooking the harbor. It would have been a better choice to eat in a restaurant but we had brought cheese and potato salad with us, not knowing what Collioure was like, or even if we would be there for lunch. Kristen and I splashed around in the crystalline waters of the Mediterranean a while. Walked around among the shops. Had sorbets (raspberry, walnut, banana.) took Kristen to a playground (the French seem to be building more and more.) The town is pretty and not destroyed by tourists. It’s probably great in the morning and evening when the daytrippers are gone. Home of Matisse and the “Fauves”, part Catalan, part French, bright, colorful, clean… but time to go. Headed south down the coast with some nice views. Crossed the Spanish border (the border post is now a money changer), hung a U-Turn and back up the coast to Banyuls. Following Thomas Cook’s directions, took the D86 inland for coastal views. Unexpectedly, this ended up being one of the most hair-raising rides we’ve ever taken. As we climbed out of town, the road rapidly narrowed to 1 lane, climbing steeply, clinging to a cliff with no guardrails. Whenever a car came in the opposite direction, one of you had to find a pullout spot to let the other guy pass. Made your heart pound! (Ed. Note: especially since we were on the outside lane.) The views also made the heart pound, as they were spectacular – up and down the coast as far as you could see in the slight haze. Unfortunately we ran out of film. After about an hour we were back on terra firma. By now it was around 5 or so and time to head back. Stopped on the way for Kristen’s highlight of the day – a McDonald’s with a Ronaldland play room. She had a great time running around with the French kids. There were about 3 birthday parties going on simultaneously. Back home for a beer and a cigar, and another good dinner at Au Pierre Lys. Very good again. On the way into the house, as we drove down our 1 lane street, I had to stop for a dog who wouldn’t move until his owner called him from inside where they were eating. Kristen was uncharacteristically bad at dinner and wouldn’t eat. Dave – salad, escargot and cassoulet – excellent. Kristen liked her first escargots. Grand Marnier crepes for dessert. Jill salad, confit de canard, melon with Muscat, lime sorbet. Also very good.
Day 13 – 9/14/2000 Woke up to dogs annoyingly barking in the valley below, but bright sunshine. Had 2 croissants and coffee for breakfast. Kristen just got up. Jill’s ironing as usual. Left about 9:30 ,headed south at Axat into the mountains. Beautiful mountain road beside the River Aude (the beginnings of it). Passing a few towns but mostly driving through the shaded valley.
At the top you reach a wide plain and you’re near the top of the Pyrenees. Great views all around but a little hazy. The plan was to catch “Le Petit Train Jaune” (Little Yellow train) for a breathtaking ride. But once we got to the top we realized we would not make the 11:15 train from Villefranche. So we consulted the schedule I had printed out from the internet and determined we could get a 2:30 train from Romeau / Odello going the opposite way. So we walked around Font Romeau, a purpose-built ski town from the 1920’s (?) Judging from the number of A Vendre (For Sale) signs, it looks like there may be a bit of a depression in local real estate. But the town’s nice enough. Had a leisurely lunch of salad and wood fired oven pizzas outside in perfect weather. Left around 1:30 and found the little train station about 3 km downhill. One problem – the trains listed for the afternoon on my internet schedule did not appear on the door of the (closed for lunch) station. After consulting the schedule I had picked up in the tourist info office, we realized the train was not going to come. This was depressing, as I did not want to spend another day driving. But we had no choice, so we headed back approximately along the train route, going downhill past Mont Louis for about 10-20 miles. But it was not very relaxing for the driver. So we headed back up the (steep) mountain after catching a glimpse of the train, viaducts, etc. (We had stopping in Mont Louis earlier – before lunch – walked around, let Kristen go on the playset near the Commando Training Center. So we went to Plan B, which was to visit the Parc Animalier in Les Angles. It was a nice park, the animals having many acres per species to roam around in. It was a pleasant hike – 1 ½ miles – and we saw deer, elk, bison, bear, wolf, etc. Kristen liked it and got a stuffed chipmunk. (Ed. Note: There was a comical moment when Kristen wanted to know if the wolves were going to huff and puff and blow the wooden observation hut down.) Then back home for a dip in the pool, a cigar, and the bottle of Blanquette de Limoux the owner left for us (the local Champagne). Followed by dinner at Le Pierre Lys - Jill – salad, steak, citron vert sorbet. Dave – salad, langoustines (like a small lobster), cassoulet, and apple tart.
Day 14 – 9/15/2000 Today is pack up day. Mme. Bournet is coming today at 2 to clean for some reason, though we don’t leave till tomorrow. Kristen and I did our morning routine – open the downstairs shutters from the inside, make coffee, go outside and fasten shutters. We also found a boules set and played in the yard a little. Kristen is not very competitive. Then a few figs from the tree, and a little lounging by the pool. Momster packed up; Kristen and dad took a chilly dip. Then around 11:30 it was time to get on the road towards Carcassonne. We stopped at a LeClerc on the way north and picked up some goodies. Carcassonne is impressive from a distance, with the reconstructed battlements looming against the horizon. We parked right across the street from the hotel we stayed in 6 (!) years ago and walked in the front gate. Not much has changed – the same tacky tourist shops as you enter – but tourism seems to have now completely overtaken the town. What used to be confined to an area near the main gate now consumes virtually all the buildings. Other than that, nothing had changed. Except this time we were there at midday, whereas last time we followed Rick Steves’ recommendation and did most of our exploring before or after the tour busses arrived. Kinda crowded. We both agreed that this will probably be our last Carcassonne visit, then Jill took Kristen on the carousel outside the gate (same make and model as the one at Freehold Mall!) Kristen napped while we took a drive on the 1 ½ lane roads south of Carcassone for about an hour. Stopped in Quillan for a beer at a café and home for another dip in the pool at 6. Around 7, Kristen and I took a walk around the village, meeting a small boy with a skateboard who regaled us with stories for about 15 minutes, few of which I understood. Something about 1) his dog is a hunter and either had 12 pups or is one of 12; 2) school started last Friday (or is it next Friday?); 3) His father (?) is in the hospital in Carcassonne. Thick accent. I should have stopped him at the outset and told him I spoke little French. Once he got going it was impossible, but I don’t think he knew or cared. He was bored and looking for friends. Last dinner at Pierre Lys – Dave Salade Nicoise, escargots, pigeon (too gamey), raspberry tart. Jill – house salad, confit of duck, cheese. Kristen – omelet.
Day 15 – 9/16/2000 Gray morning, with dogs barking in the village below. We’re packing up and eating the rest of our food. Stuffed the suitcases and got out around 10:15. I think we collected a record number of souvenirs. Headed south of Perpignan and picked up the autoroute. Once on the autoroute you move extremely fast. The rule seems to be – get on the autoroute as quickly as you can – even if you seem to be going out of your way to get on. Stopped for cheese and bread, spent our last francs on gas, and stopped in Spain at a rest area for a picnic and fun on the playground. Jill panicked as navigator as we hit Barcelona, and it was unclear how to get to our hotel on the map. Dadster kept a cool head and made not an error as we drove up the Ramblas to the Citadines Apart-hotel around 3-ish. Kristen had enough driving by that time and was letting us know. Checked in, upgraded to a suite on the top (9th) floor with a view of the Ramblas, and went out around 4.
The crowds were tremendous – unlike anything I’ve ever seen. Wall to wall people, not only on the Ramblas but on all streets in the Gothic Quarter. The Ramblas is a pedestrian walk about 40’ wide, with one traffic lane on each side. Exotic bird dealers occupy about 10-20 stalls. The birds were cheap – the most expensive were African Greys for $250 ($900 at home.) Jill immediately felt uncomfortable due to the crowds and returned to the hotel to leave her pocketbook. We had heard about petty crime but assumed it was comparable to New York. Walked to the top of the Ramblas and got a café table infront of a Burger King (of all places) because we all wanted a large, cold, soda. While Jill and Kristen were in the bathroom, I saw a thief running, followed about 30 seconds later by the Spanish male victim. Too late. While I was inside getting sodas, two guys tried to distract Jill by snapping fingers in front of Kristen’s face. But she had nothing to steal anyway. Took about 5 minutes to get 2 sodas. They’re trying to get the fast food thing down but need some practice. After freshening up at the hotel, decided to skip a full dinner and do the tapas thing. Stopped at several places over the next 4 hours for beer, wine, pizza, salad, and sea snails (tiny, and extracted from the shell using a sewing pin.) Also a pastry.
Unfortunately the visit was marred by seeing the aftermaths of about 5 or 6 purse snatchings (running thief, slower victim), and a general feeling of unease (not helped by the brawl we saw). We went back and forth between liking the city and its beautiful weather, friendly English speakers, and the crime situation. Not to mention loving the low prices. It’s not the place for a 3-year-old, though. Seems to be more of a party town.
Woke up multiple times between 2 and 6 a.m. with the sounds of heavy partying penetrating the double glazing of our 9th floor windows. Sirens, screaming, singing, etc. Not the best end to our peaceful countryside vacation in rural Spain and France, but it made us appreciate the rest of the trip! (Ed. Note: After this experience, and our Toulouse experience, we’ve decided to skip big cities on our future rural trips. Too much of a contrast from the countryside. And I can’t help but wondering what the problem was in Barcelona that day – everyone seems to love the city and no one ever reports as much crime as we witnessed.)
Day 16 – 9/17/2000 After fitful sleep, had a buffet breakfast at the nice modern hotel and headed out into the still-sleeping city at 9:30. No events at the airport, other than squeezing the car back into the Avis lot and lots of walking. No problems as far as Heathrow, where we’re awaiting takeoff. (Ed. Note: No problems except for Kristen’s explosive bloody nose when landing at Heathrow!) Till next time, Happy Traveling!
Here are some additional photos of the France house we got from the agent:
Master Bedroom, second and third bedrooms.
The backyard, pool and front door.
The living room, dining room, and one of the wings with the entrance to the village. |
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