|
|
|
|
Editors Note: We planned this trip on short notice, and were able to stay at Richard’s place in the Dordogne once again for week 1. For week 2, the only place we could get on short notice was in an area of the Perigord “equally inconvenient to everywhere”. The poor location combined with bad weather and Kristen being a nudge ruined the mood a bit, but we still had a nice time. This diary is a bit more descriptive than the 1998 effort. By 2002 I probably realized that the diary would eventually be read by someone other than myself and Jill, so figured I’d better start filling in some details! Unfortunately the pictures were not developed digitally, so I have only some digitized, in primitive fashion. I'm going to get all my old slides digitized soon, I promise. Day 1 – 8/15/02 This is my first vacation of any length in a couple of years. I’m gonna have fun!
Today, Thursday, I worked at home for BNY; not much going on, just responding to emails. Bob & Joyce picked us up at home around 2 and drove us to Newark. After some annoying lines, and a security check where my shoes and wallet were x-rayed, we boarded Air France for an almost-full flight to Paris at 5:05 pm. Departed a little later, and after our meal (unspectacular), Dave mostly slept, Jill & Kristen started a little later. Landed at Charles De Gaulle before 7 a.m., were the last off the plane, and were met by a special ground agent with a sign for Toulouse, Rome, and a third city. Those of us affected (about 12), instead of going through normal Customs were put in a van for a high speed trip around the airport and a shortcut to our terminal so we wouldn’t miss our connecting flight. We ended up in a sprint through the terminal, Dave keeping up with the group, and signaling Jill and Kristen behind. Jill carrying our heavy carryon, and Kristen running to keep up. We made our flight to Toulouse with plenty of time to spare, spent it waiting on a bus, then transferred to our 1/3 full plane. The plane was about 30 years old and leaking fluid. Probably was just gassed up… I hope. Landed in Toulouse before 9 a.m. Too good to be true! Went to baggage claim and voila – no baggage. None for an American father / son from Pennsylvania either, who were also on our Newark flight. They were waiting for their bags and bikes for a Pyrenees trek. We had been through exactly the same routine last time we flew into Toulouse… Day 2 – 8/16/02 Here we go again. Had to wait about 20 minutes to speak with a schoolmistress–like lost baggage woman, who at first practically told me the bags were on the carousel and I just missed them. But for some reason she warmed up to me and spent about 20 minutes with her going over our baggage receipts, boarding passes, future places of stay, etc.
Once she found out we were staying at Chateau Mercuès, she decided she really liked me. She had no idea where the bags were. I told her we had the same problem the last time we flew into Toulouse 3 years ago. Yes, she joked, but they installed a new baggage handling system at Charles De Gaulle since then, and improved it a year ago. Twenty four kilometers of tracks for the baggage. Can’t you see the improvement? She said her only obligation for the first 24 hours was to give me a toiletry kit, but since she was out of kits, she would just go ahead and give us Euros. I was thinking about $20 would be about right. She looked up the rate for people traveling from Newark. It was about 115€. I thought – hey – about $110 is pretty damn good, then she said, “I’ll write you a check for 230€, since it’s 115€ per person! I reminded her that there were 3 of us, and she ended up writing a check for 345€, but had no idea when our bags would arrive. I walked out of the office and told the biking Dad about the deal we got. Madame came out of her office and said “M. Siebenheller, I have a message about your bags!” She told me the bags were coming in at 2:45, and they would be brought to the Chateau some time in the future, exactly when unknown. Still, we were 345€ richer, and our bags still existed. Waited on 2 more lines, got our 345€ in cash, got another 100€ from the ATM just to test the ATM card. Then stopped at the bar for 3 sandwiches to go and 3 Cokes, and hit the road in our Renault Scenic mini-minivan. Took the un-scenic route out of town (we had no map), and headed to Cahors, about 1 hour north. Hit bumper-to-bumper traffic outside of Cahors, while Jill and Kristen snored. This is our first time in Europe in the summer… bummer. Finally got into Cahors about 1 p.m., after eating in the car. Hey, I can sit in traffic in New Jersey, I don’t want to do it here. Went through Cahors and did a drive-by of the Pont Valentré to show it to Kristen. Just like the poster in my office. But no parking to be found, and no driving on the bridge anymore… bummer. By this time, I was fading fast, so we found a LeClerc and bought 3 bathing suits so we could at least use the Chateau’s pool. A little ugly, but hey, they’ll work.
Pulled into Chateau Mercuès (Mer-cue-ESS) about 2 to a friendly welcome. Explained our baggage difficulties to the Proprietor – he said “C’est normal”. The bags will arrive tomorrow a.m. and we can wear our (grungy) clothes to dinner – no problem.
Our room was on the top floor of the Chateau, overlooking the inner courtyard (where dinner was served), and more spectacularly, the Lot river several hundred feet below. Immediately hit the pool for a couple of hours of R&R. Kristen and Dad splashed around and we enjoyed the (hot) sun.
Back to the room for a 2 hour nap, (the deepest sleep I’ve had in years), then awoke at 7:30 for dinner in the courtyard at 8. Dave – foie gras, pork molded in a terrine kind of thing, cheese (wow), and a tarte de fraises (strawberries) and a white cheese sorbet with a sweet basil sauce (wow). Jill – green salad, same pork, dessert – wow! Kristen – tagliatelle pasta with Parmesan, pistachio ice cream, (excellent). Overall one of the best meals we’ve ever had. Finally fell asleep at 1 a.m. (Kristen included) listening to the clink of the staff setting tomorrow’s breakfast dishes in the courtyard. Day 3 – 8/17/02 Got up around 9, still no luggage. Dressed in the same clothes and went downstairs. The bags had arrived at 1 a.m., and were sitting in the lobby! Had the porter bring them up and we all changed. It felt good after 36 hours. Went down and checked out, then walked around and took photos with our “new” (recently repaired) Olympus camera.
Went back to LeClerc and got a picnic lunch of ham, bread, and cheese. Drove back to the Pont Valentré. You can no longer drive on the bridge, as you could on our last visit 8 years ago. Had a picnic lunch on a bench overlooking the bridge and the Lot river. Walked across the bridge and back, by now very hot. Back in our mini-minivan, thank God for A/C (90-95 degrees). Cahors looks like a nice place to stop for a meal and a walk, but not today. Headed up the Lot and then the Célé river valleys. An error by the navigator got us out of the Célé river valley, unfortunately, and we took the un-scenic route to Figeac. Entering Figeac, we hit traffic again. We had also hit it entering Cahors in the a.m. This is what happens when an entire country goes “en vacances” at the same time. No fun. I can sit in traffic in New Jersey! Sweated our way through old town Figeac. Nice old Medieval architecture. Jill bought a dress for Kristen for 16€ and we had sorbet. Then on to St. Céré via the scenic route through the Ségala. Almost 5 p.m., so we headed straight to the supermarché for provisions. No need to rush, though. Unlike on our last visit, the markets stay open later on Saturdays (about 7 p.m.) Bought groceries and headed towards our house. Definitely some new construction and stores since out last visit 4 years ago. But the old towns still look the same, like our own Gagnac-Sur-Cére and La Teuliere. Made the twisting drive up the narrow road from Gagnac to La Teuliere with a lot less trepidation this time, since we knew the way. It comes right back to you, even after 4 years. The house hasn’t changed much – still a 1700’s farmhouse on a small piece of property with a great view. Richard has redone the batch since our last visit, and the price is great at $800 a week.
Had a Pastis and wine on the patio as I cooled off a little. Jill prepped and Dave cooked a dinner of thin pork cutlets, carrots and potatoes fried in olive oil with thyme. An expensive ($9) bottle of Cahors wine to top it off. (The most expensive in the store. Jill’s white cost $1.50!)
Richard’s satellite, newly tuned, now only gets German stations and CNBC. Mr. Poulet, who tuned it, probably thought the German was English… watched senior golf on CNBC, Jill and Kristen to bed at 11, Dave at 12:30 after reading Peter Mayle’s book on food in France – French Lessons. P.S. – From the grocery store we got an empty box that says “Langue de Chat”. Either way you look at it, a box of cat’s tongues, or something involving the language of cats is weird. (Ed. Note – we saw them later in the store – they’re cookies) Day 4 – 8/18/02 I got up at 8:30, the girls later, which probably explains why they feel fine and I’m exhausted. Did the dishes from last night, then Kristen and I took a walk through the village, past some farms where we saw ducks, chickens, and horses. Left the house around 11:30 to get bread before the Boulangerie closed. Starving by now, we had lunch of ham, cheese, tomato, and baguette. Dave took a brief nap, then we went to Bretenoux and took some photos by the old arcaded market square. Hot as hell, we stopped for sodas in a local bar. Then over to St. Céré, where we stopped in the Jean Lurçat Museum. The museum is almost better then his art, which is kind of Picasso-ish and encompasses tapestries, paintings, the building itself and the ceilings. Interesting, but the museum and its location – in an old castle he restored on a dramatic hill overlooking St. Céré – is the real winner. Took photos and headed home via Glanes – a prosperous wine growing community. Earlier in the day, stopped in an art exhibit in Gagnac. Almost bought some pen and ink drawings but the nice ones were already sold and the remaining ones did not call out to us. It rained a little earlier but now it’s about 6 or so, the sun is out and it’s hot again. Even under the umbrella on the patio. Jill’s cooking more pork cutlets, and au gratin potatoes. I’m gonna have a pastis and enjoy the quiet… Kristen’s not whining. She’s chasing little lizards around and calling them “Gecko”, like on the TV commercial, and working on her dollar store crafts. Saw a bunch of baby swallows today under the arcades at Bretenoux. The guy in the house next door is “whistling while he works”. Ate an apple off of Richard’s new apple tree, and picked 2 for tomorrow. Day 5 – 8/19/02 Woke up late, Jill made breakfast of roasted potatoes and eggs, then off to a late start to tour the Ségala region. The Ségala is east of where we are. We descended into Gagnac and made a right, up the Cére river. The whole area is pretty much uninhabited and totally untouristed. We traveled much of the same route when we were here 4 years ago.
Once you cross south over the Cére, it’s beautiful, with just dairy cattle, farms, and small villages. Stopped and picked wildflowers with Kristen, then stopped for a soda at a campground, where English was being spoken. I spoke to the bartender, who told us it was a campground for people from Holland, as he was. He spoke perfect English. I told him I thought it was a British place, because there were “Happy Hour” signs up – he said “Happy Hour” is a universal language and all the Dutch love it because “Everyone knows people from Holland are cheap”!
Told him we were in Amsterdam a few years ago – he said he’d never been there!!! He’s from a small, church-oriented town. Stopped in Sousseyrac, where we plan to go to a Michelin “Bib Gourmand” restaurant in a few days. Drove back to Gagnac through Glanes again.
Came home and filled up a kiddie pool for Kristen, and went in ourselves. Nice and cool on a hot day. We had brought the pool over from home and thought we were so clever – till we saw the exact same pool in LeClerc for the same price. I met the new Belgian neighbors yesterday, who are nice, and pretty fluent in English. They’re about 50-55, from Flanders, and it takes them about 8 hours to drive here. They have some friends down for the week. Went to dinner at Belle Rive in Port Gagnac, where we had eaten 4 years ago. A husband – wife place. Except this time, the wife was waiting on about 20-30 people, solo, pretty flawlessly. At least till it was time to return the check, when I think she was putting the kids to bed and took too long. But the star of the evening was the food, and the perfect evening for outdoor dining. Jill – scallops and leeks, steak with mushroom / vegetable-stuffed ravioli, and crème bruléé. A bottle of Glanes wine was about $10. Total bill 91€. Jill liked it better than Chateau Mercuès. Came home to drunken Belgians stargazing in the driveway. P.S. Bought a bottle of Chateau Mercuès wine at LeClerc today for 9€ - it was 25€ at the Chateau. Also have been enjoying many great cheeses, too many to list. Day 6 – 8/20/02 Got up late- it was raining and didn’t look too promising. Had the 2 apples from Richard’s tree for breakfast.
Went to St. Céré in the rain. First stop – the brocante where we vacillated and didn’t buy the clock on our last trip. Guess what – it, or something very similar, was still in the shop 4 years later. (I don’t think it was the same – it looked newer.) We didn’t buy it this time either.
There was so much tempting stuff – if you had a local house to put it in – but we didn’t buy.
Went into the church, talked to some swans by the river, and showed up for lunch at the Victor Hugo hotel 15 minutes early. Had a mediocre meal of mackerel salad (Dave) salad (Jill), spaghetti with volaille (chicken, Kristen), veal cutlets (Jill & Dave) and dessert of very good chocolate ice cream (Miss K) and Lemon Meringue pie (Dave). It wasn’t raining anymore, so we went up to Beaulieu on the Dordogne. I didn’t recognize it, but Jill did, as a place we made a pit stop 4 years ago.
Went to the church, walked around the old town, and drove across the river to take some photos.
Then up to the small town of Queyssac-les-Vignes for a 360 degree view from an old (600 year) tower on the property of a hotel. Unfortunately, the hotel was closed, so we only got about 120 degrees of view from the town square below. Then drove down to Carennac on the Dordogne. Quite crowded, and as we became trapped in our car in a narrow lane (6 point u-turn the only way out, on a hill with kids around), Jill pointed out that we had been here as well. The nice thing about being me is that everything always seems new! Walked around the crowded town, bought some candied walnuts, took some photos of the admittedly pretty town, then got out. But not till after Jill found our parking spot from 4 years ago.
Drove back home, past Castelnau (imposing). Home at 6:30 or 7. Then right back out to dinner at the other restaurant in Port Gagnac – Auberge de Vieux Port. Had a very nice dinner, but not as nice as last night. Plus, a little chilly out. It looks like the restaurant has been passed to the next generation (the menu shows 3 generations, with Gramps at 84 years). It seems to have been updated a little and the prices raised a bit (just like next door). Jill – salad, confit de canard, and walnut ice cream (why is the word for scallop the same as walnut?), Kristen jambon blanc, spaghetti and chocolate ice cream, Dave Salmon and Duck salad, steak, and a chocolate / vanilla pudding thing, plus a bottle of Glanes. Home and to bed with Peter Mayle (one of his books, not him!) Day 7 – 8/21/02 A little foggy and cloudy when we awoke, but it cleared as the day progressed. After a light breakfast, we packed a picnic lunch and headed to Martel. Got to town just after 12 and tried to buy our tickets for the tourist train, but it was closed. So we took our picnic lunch a couple of miles out of town and enjoyed it on a country lane. Bananas, eggs, cheese sandwiches. Dave and Kristen found some blackberry bushes and enjoyed a couple of handfuls. Went back to the town to catch the 2:30 train, fortunately with plenty of time to spare. Fortunately, because the brochure was wrong and the train left at 2 instead. We were just about the last to board, which was unfortunate because we didn’t have seats. At least Kristen had a good time, but it was kind of a rip-off (3 for 23€), and didn’t provide much better views than in a car. At least in your car you can clean the windows and you’re not trapped with smelly Frenchmen! Before and after the train we walked around Martel – very photogenic and I took some black and white photos I hope to blow up for the family room.
Then on to Souillac where we went to the robot museum - all toy robots, mostly 75 – 150 years old. Some pretty funny, and many still working. My favorite was the fat guy doing a belly laugh. We were going to drive around the middle Dordogne valley, but by this time we were tired and it was after 6. Plus, we had promised Kristen a toy, so we headed home. I was going to suggest we go for a “Pizza a Emporter” in St. Céré (there are several around now, one before). We stopped at LeClerc for Kristen’s toy, and what was in the parking lot but the pizza truck from 4 years ago! So we ordered 3 pies and brought them home, with Kristen’s new Zoo Animals, for dinner. A bottle of Corbieres, pizza, a hot air balloon in the distance, and Louis Armstrong on the radio singing “When You’re Smiling, the Whole World Smiles with You”. A pretty good ending to a pretty good day. P.S. We’ve seen more wildlife on this trip than before. On the way to dinner the other night, a small deer with straight horns, that completely panicked when it saw our car. A mouse running across the road in the dark on the way home last night, followed shortly thereafter by an owl in our headlights. Several hawks. Large trout by the Pont Valentré. Even a rabbit. The rabbit and deer are practically endangered species here, there is so much hunting , or chasse. Day 8 – 8/22/02 Got up a little earlier today and out around 10:30 after a light breakfast. Decided at the last minute to make today’s destination the Parc Animalier de Gramat – an outdoor zoo. First, we stopped by lovely Loubressac, an old village on the edge of the causse overlooking the Chateau de Castelnau and the Dordogne valley.
Took a bunch of photos, black & white and color, and enjoyed the town and view on a perfect day. Drove by the hotel where we stayed 4 years ago – funny, but Kristen didn’t remember it. Oh yeah, she was 11 months old. Bought bread and stopped at a picnic are along the road to Gramat for lunch a little before 12. Kristen and Dave walked along a dirt track to check out some cows we heard bellowing in the distance. All walking in a row, maybe back to an unseen barn. Picked a couple more blackberries and had lunch of bread, cheese, egg, ham, etc. Were joined at the rest area by 2 French couples, each of whom wished us “Bon Appetit”. One had wine, china, and a multicourse meal going on. Made us look kind of pathetic! Then on to the zoo, where we saw lots of animals, many of whom Kristen fed popcorn to. It got kind of hot walking around after 2 hours or so. Kristen’s favorite animal was a small deer she petted. Oh, yeah, stopped at a market in Gramat that was in the process of closing, but didn’t buy anything. Back home via Autoire, another charming village. Took a couple of photos, including one of Kristen on the village fountain that should be good. (Ed. Note: it made it into the Christmas Card.)
Down into the valley, where we drove by Chateau Castelnau and took some photos. The parking lot we had to ourselves last time was now packed and even had a pay attendant in a booth. How gauche. We didn’t go in. Then a stop at a place where some potters were making ceramics, and more interestingly, glassblowers were at work blowing glass into really nice (i.e. expensive) pieces. It was hot. Then home via the back way through Glanes again. We drained and cleaned the pool, and Kristen’s sloshing around now as we fill it up.
Dinner tonight at Au Dejuner de Sousseyrac. Supposedly the best in the area, and it has a Michelin Bib Gourmand.(Good value and good food, but not yet deserving of a star.) Called yesterday and tried to make a reservation, but the problem I have, especially on the phone, is that when the conversation takes an unexpected turn, I don’t understand, and I choke. After getting off the phone I think she said that reservations were not necessary, and that they opened at 7:30, or, maybe, Stupid Americans showing up before 7:30 will be shot. Either, or. We’ll see. Well, we took a beautiful drive to Sousseyrac, via Gagnac, Glanes, Estal, and Teyssieu, arriving at about 7:40. The drive was spectacular, with rolling green hillsides, farms, cows, etc. Winding, forested roads. We walked into the restaurant and up the stairs. The chef, large and bearded, came out of the kitchen and we asked for a table for 3. He eyed us up and said, after looking in the dining room “A table for 4, yes, but I can’t do a table for 3”. He offered to seat us, alone, in a side breakfast room. Much conversation back and forth between him and the server, probably his wife. He told me, it is necessary to telephone ahead for a reservation.
But monsieur, I did telephone, yesterday morning. The woman told me to arrive at 7:30. (This whole conversation is going on in French, mind you, stretching my skills to the limit.) They looked in the book. Sure enough, there was a reservation, without a name. Apologies all around. They swapped one upholstered chair for an upholstered one for Kristen. It was kind of hushed and intimidating. Only about 20-25 seats, ½ full. All French. No menu enfant for Kristen. We ordered an 18€ plate of duck for her and told her it was chicken. Peter Mayle described the atmosphere perfectly in “Encore Provence”, that I read when we got back to the house… “more than a hint of reverence in the air. This is characteristic of celebrated restaurants, that can sometimes be overwhelming, causing voices to be muted and – for me at least – threatening to turn the meal into some kind of minor religious experience.” Also “the deadening effect that excellence often has on customers, who treat each exquisitely arranged plate like a shrine, forgetting that they came to have a good time…” It was intimidating at first, but after a glass of wine we relaxed. Kristen was very well behaved. The major faux pas of the evening was Jill’s – she accidentally turned out the dining room lights when trying to turn on the bathroom light, lending new meaning to the question “Who turned out the lights?” Overall, Jill liked Belle Rive better. I thought the presentation and food were a cut above, but only slightly. A lot depends on what you order. Dave – lobster appetizer, fish entrée, feuiletté with figs. Jill – duck salad with terrine, preserved breast and foie gras, steak (oversauced per Jill) and crème bruléé that was prepared in advance – a major faux pas. Topped with a $15 bottle of Rhone and the total was about 90€ - same as the other places. But not as relaxing.
Day 9 – 8/23/02 Woke up at 8:15 and it started raining around 8:30. Gray and dreary. After breakfast, we gave up on our upper Dordogne valley drive planned for today, and went shopping instead. Went to LeClerc and Jill bought about 100€ of school clothes for Kristen and soap and dishtowels for herself. I bought a Laguiole corkscrew knife for Bob as thanks for watching Jojo and Ralph. Bought a baguette and stamps and back to the house for lunch of the usual. By then it was pouring, so we went into St. Céré and walked around in the rain. We had driven through the town probably about 50 times on our various trips, but had not explored the old quarter before today. Kind of cool with all the old houses, their upper stories larger than their lower. Found the exact view that’s on the poster in my office. Went into a toy store and bought 10€ of overpriced toys for Kristen. Once we were wet, the weather finally began to let up. We drove through the Ségala region again, over the Cére and into the Dordogne at Beaulieu. Thousands of curves on narrow roads. Finally got home around 4:30, and the sun came out. Emptied the pool, finished packing (we began in the a.m.), had a cocktail, and went back to Belle Rive for dinner. Dave – smoked fish, Cod, and blackcurrant sorbet. Jill – salad, confit of duck, citron sorbet. Kristen – chicken and pasta, chocolate ice cream. 71€. Saw a hedgehog in the road on the way home. Day 10 – 8/24/02 Got up and out of Cantou by 9:30, left 30€ so we didn’t have to clean.
Drove to St. Céré via Glanes and went to the Saturday market. A little smaller then we expected, and all food. We bought tomatoes, raspberries, and several nice cheeses, including an awesome Vieux Cantal. Got gas and did a quick stop at Rocamadour, but didn’t do the whole tour, which we had done before. Took some photos. The girls got upset by the gross public squat-n-aim restroom, and refused to use it. Headed northwest and stopped for the girls to use the lovely public restroom at LaCave.
Had a picnic lunch on the roadside near Meyronne, in hearing distance of the canoeists on the Dordogne, but out of sight of the river. It’s a shame so many roads do not take advantage of the opportunity to offer viewpoints – often you speed by nice views because there’s nowhere to stop, or you know there’s a great view beyond the trees but you can’t get to it. Crossed the Dordogne at Meyronne and found the picnic spot we should have used. Oh well. Headed northeast via Souillac, Salignac, Montignac and Thenon. Got out to stretch our legs in what I think was St. Geniès, a pretty, small town where we stopped to get drinks and took pictures.
On to our new house in Limeyrat. We found the town, but came in from a different direction than the map provided by the owner, so got lost and frustrated. Eventually headed back to Ajat to start on the map route once again, and found the house around 3:30. Christian and Valérie, and their son Clement were at the house, cleaning, - we were an hour early and I felt bad. But they were really nice, and showed us around with Christian and I each mangling the other’s language. The house is a nice Maison De Maitre, built in 1920 for the owner of a ceramic factory next door.
It is exquisitely oak paneled on the ground floor, and very light due to large windows and high ceilings. Many antiques around, including Rousseau bronzes that we had to sign a waiver for.
It also has real French Canal+ satellite TV, which Kristen loves, after 100 channels of German TV at Richard’s house.
It’s on a “parc” of several acres, with abandoned outbuildings Kristen and I explored later in the evening. Anyway, so as not to disturb the ménage (cleaning), we drove 20-30 minutes to the nearest LeClerc for food shopping. It ended up being located at the largest shopping center in southern France, complete with a McDonald’s where we bought Kristen a Happy Meal with toy (and all our groceries at LeClerc). Back to the house, where an hour later Christian and his friend Matthew, who had studied in the US (L.A.) dropped by to read the electric meter and shoot the breeze. Took photos and made dinner of pasta with tomatoes, peppers, onions and sausage. OK, but no spices on hand except salt and pepper, so a little bland. Watched TV, drank wine, and in bed before 10. Day 11 – 8/25/02 Woke to light rain, breakfasted on chocolate croissants, Kristen got her fill of Powerpuff Girls (Super-Nanas, in French), and headed to the Grotte de Rouffignac 20 minutes away. Got there at the perfect time to start the 11:00 tour via underground train. The guide, fluent in heavily-accented English, took us 1 km and back through the cave (55m underground) on the train, and showed us Magdalenian cave paintings 13,000 years old – of mammoth, ibex, horses, goats and bison that were skillfully drawn so long ago. We bought some slides (Jill lost them). Kristen liked it a lot. We also saw many pre-Magdalenian scratchings from the claws of bears and other mammals that used to hibernate in the cave, as well as their ancient, hollowed-out dens. Since we were driving by, we also stopped at Chateau De L’Herm, a ruined castle from the 1500’s (and before), some of whose proprietors has committed 10 murders between them as a couple. Kristen befriended a kitten, and Dave took photos in the rain.
Back home for a late picnic lunch at the kitchen table. Much indecision as to what to do, due to the rainy weather, and the fact that the house is equally inconvenient to everywhere. Finally headed off to Perigueux, and it stopped raining. Enjoyed the church, which Freda White in Three Rivers of France disliked as too cold. Maybe we liked it because of the organist playing a famous Bach (?) piece that appears in horror movies, loud enough to rattle Jill’s eardrums.
Walked around the old town and Dave enjoyed the national boules tournament, where 200 games were going on at once! These guys are good! Also had some good frites and a Fanta for Kristen. Also found the judging for a contest where various artists had painted / sketched various Perigueux scenes, today. Back home and decided to cook at home, since its Sunday night and not too many restaurants around here. She’s making chicken cutlets, potatoes au gratin (with St. Nectaire fermier cheese, yum), and haricots verts. Should be great. Day 12 – 8/26/02 Woke to rain – bummer. About to drive to Bournat ,which looked like a French Ballenburg from the brochure. Old houses, craft demonstrations, plus rides for the kids. … It ended up being a cross between Ballenburg (in Switzerland, which we loved), and Keansburg amusement park in NJ. Pretty tacky. Kind of run down. We saw a blacksmith demonstration, basket weaving, etc. Plus a lot of dusty old displays of mannequins and fake animals in various scenes. Tacky. They also had a bunch of kiddie rides, some of which were ok, and others that would cause the immediate closure of the place if it was in the USA. We didn’t witness any fatalities though, and Kristen loved it.
We had a mediocre lunch of walnut salad (D), salad with magret fumé (J), and ham with potato chips (K), and bolted about 2. Kristen started whining for toys as soon as we left and her whining is starting to get to us. Where can we get a babysitter? Drove to Limeuil, at the confluence of the Dordogne and Vézere rivers. Walked around the pretty and steep town, thought about buying something from a blacksmith for the family room, but didn’t. Had ice creams. It didn’t rain for most of the day but it’s still getting us down. Drove home, arrived tired about 5, Dave took a nap, Kristen watched cartoons. Stayed home for dinner again, didn’t feel like driving all over looking for something. Jill and Kristen had leftover chicken and haricots verts, Dave had olives plus goose neck stuffed with foie gras, and truffled foie gras. The owner had left it for us, along with a bottle of Bergerac red and sweet (sticky) Monbazillac white, and a can of confit d’oie (goose). Kristen and the weather are getting on our nerves, hopefully tomorrow will be better. Kristen now refuses to go to bed until we do. Day 13 – 8/27/02 Woke up to more gray skies and light rain. Breakfast of chocolate croissants and out the door before 10. Drove through Perigueux to Bordeilles and visited the 13th c. castle. The castle had an impressive great hall where you could imagine 100 knights and princesses dining in front of the 2 huge fireplaces. Kristen and I climbed about ¼ of the way up the 8-story circular staircase of the octagonal tower before retreating. More impressive was the 16th c. renaissance chateau adjacent. It was chock full of antiques dating back to the 12th c. I most liked the gold salon, built to accommodate Catherine de Medici, who never arrived. Beautiful painted paneling around the room, on the huge ceiling beams, etc. Then up to Brantome for a late lunch. We got a prime parking spot (tourist season is over, pretty much) and took a bunch of photos of this picturesque town on the way to lunch at Au Fil Du Temps.
A very nicely painted room, about ½ British, was the setting for our drawn-out afternoon repast from 1-3 p.m. Kristen was a bit of a nudge, and we were getting antsy too by the time the check came. Dave had an excellent meal of fried whole tiny fish (like bait fish), followed by a stewed assortment of fish in a cast iron pot, and chocolate cake. (It was a fish-themed place, with stuffed fish on the walls, gear, rods, etc.) Jill was less impressed with her tomato-mozzarella salad (very good), confit de canard, and pear sorbet. Miss K. – salad, chicken, fries, sorbet. And a ½ bottle of Champagne - 80€. Then we walked around the streets of the town some more – I didn’t realize till we came home that it’s actually an island. Watched some canoeists go over the small dam – it looks like fun, but not in this crummy weather. It’s still cool – light jacket weather – and misting / light rain. But it’s not interfering with anything but Jill’s mood. Drove up to St. Jean de Cole – a pretty little town with medieval half-timbered buildings scattered around the tightly-packed streets. Drove through Thiviers, where I bought a stale (!) baguette from the Boulangerie. Sacre Bleu! Down through Sorges, the truffle capital, took a picture when the clouds briefly parted. Then down in search of the chateau near Antoine-et-Trigonnat, which we briefly glimpsed from the highway but didn’t get close enough to photograph.
Home via the back roads and Cubjac. Dinner at home of salad, chicken leftovers, and some of the stuff the owner left for us – wine, stuffed goose neck, foie gras, and some of my cheese (and the stale bread). This was preceded by a celebratory bottle of Veuve Cliquot Champagne on the front porch, to celebrate the parting of the clouds and the arrival of sunshine!
Day 14 – 8/28/02 Sunshine? What sunshine? Woke to a brief period of sun and prepared to go to Hautefort chateau, which we want to see in the sun with its beautiful gardens. Breakfast of free-range eggs and on the road by 10. As soon as we left, it started to cloud over and drizzle again. So, we stopped and changed our plans, to head south. First stop – Thot – where after a picnic lunch under dripping trees we toured the Museum of Prehistory, followed by a walk around their “zoo” of real animals that existed 10-20,000 years ago when they were painted by the cavemen. The highlight for Kristen was the only non-live exhibit – the full size wooly mammoth that occasionally let out a roar and moved its trunk around. Kristen thought it was real at first, and got very scared! She also had a close encounter with a mountain goat, through the fence, that lowered its head in a threatening manner (to butt her) every time she lowered hers.
Then we toured the gardens and interior of nearby Chateau de Losse – a nice, fortified renaissance chateau. The interior tour was in French, and I understood a little, but the English guide sheet was informative. The furnishings were impressive, especially the detailed marquetry in some of the cabinets. We saw some pieces with identical paneling to that in our house – it turns out that this is a traditional Perigord style. The setting on the river Vézere was also spectacular, and I took some photos later in the day from across the river on our return. The gardens were mostly composed of herbs like lavender and rosemary, suitable for the HOT summer. Hah!
Did a drive-by of La Roque St. Christophe, an ancient settlement of dwellings hollowed out of the cliffs. Figured climbing slippery stairs with a 5-year-old was not a good idea. Oh yeah, I forgot the highlight of the day – we stumbled on the huge market at Montignac before lunch. Walked around for about an hour and bought some cheese, olives, and souvenirs. Kristen – candy and a balloon. Jill –a tablecloth for the kitchen. Dave – a quality Laguiole knife set of a normal knife with corkscrew, a small knife (for madame) and a Sommellier (to open wine bottles), plus a sharpener, for only 30€. It was worth it just for the sales pitch from the knife guy, who opened each blade and explained it, in French, with great enthusiasm. After La Roque St. Christophe, we drove to Les Eyzies and found our hotel for Saturday and Sunday nights – pre-reserved. Les Glycines, where we stayed 8 years ago on our first French trip.
Got home, tired, around 5:30. Christian stopped by around 6 to bring us some firewood, concerned that we might be cold (we are, a little). Went out to dinner at 7:45 but the ferme-auberge down the road was still closed. We stumbled on a really nice small hotel in nearby St. Pierre where we had a great meal and Kristen was very well-behaved. Dave – 12 oysters, seafood in sauce, and a walnut tart. Jill – garlic soup, confit, and pistachio crème bruléé. Kristen – Duck with Morel sauce, Jill’s soup With chocolate glace with walnut liqueur, wine, coffee, tea, a small Armagnac and a Baileys – 80€. Home at 10, where we lit the fire but it didn’t draft too well and some smoke went through the house. In bed at 11. Day 15 – 8/29/02 Woke to – yes – more gray skies. The larder is a little low and we had the last 2 eggs for breakfast. Left at 11 bound for Sarlat. We successfully navigated the traffic and got into town around 12. Way too crowded, and obviously more tourist-commercial than the last time we were here 4 years ago. We really just wanted to take Kristen’s picture with the brass geese, just we did when she was 11 months old. Numerous kids by the geese when we arrived, so we went for a “quick” pizza lunch with salads and crepes. Kristen – hot dog and fries. Pizzas not too good. 30€. 1 hour. Took Kristen’s picture with the geese and walked around town looking for the shop Jill had bought Limoges boxes on 2 previous visits – but couldn’t find it. Showed Kristen the Lanterne Des Morts and the gallery where the owner had gushed over her 4 years ago. Then got the hell out of Dodge.
South to La Roque Gageac (Kristen slept), and up to Chateau Beynac, where we had the famous Citron Vert incident 4 years ago, and didn’t visit the castle. This time we did visit the castle, arriving at 3 p.m. Kristen was a nudge with Jill, but Dave had a nice visit. I especially enjoyed the magnificent views up and down the Dordogne River. Took lots of photos, despite gray skies and foggy conditions. At least no rain. The Citron Vert stand no longer existed as we remembered it, but we did have a Citron sorbet and a chocolate, upon exiting. Still good and refreshing, though.
Then along the Dordogne valley to St. Cyprien, with nice views, and up to Les Eyzies, home via Rouffignac. All on Michelin “Green” roads. Home, tired, at about 6-6:30. Dinner was a tossup – the ferme-auberge, the “truck stop” restaurant, or the Logis de France in the local dumpy town of Fossmange? Since I only had 35€ left in the wallet, we opted for the Logis de France, figuring it would take Visa. We were the only guests in the dining room, which was very pleasantly furnished but smelled a little old, and a little like the owner’s giant German Shepherd in the lobby. But dinner was actually pretty ok. Maman cooked for us in the back. Dave – vegetable soup, Trout Meuniere, cassis (black currant) sorbet. Jill – salad, steak, citron vert sorbet. Kristen – rice and tomatoes, sausage, sorbet. All served with fried cornmeal dumplings called croquants – Perigord peasant food. With wine, the tab came to 55€, and guess what – Monsieur did not take Visa!!! Despite the fact that he runs a hotel and restaurant. Now I know why they say this region is like southern France used to be 30 years ago. Fortunately Monsieur did take U.S. Dollars, the only thing more universally accepted than Visa. So, we quickly exited, tail between our legs, with apologies. Home at 10, to start packing. This afternoon actually got a little sunny, so maybe a NICE day tomorrow. Day 16 – 8/30/02 When we got up, Jill said it looked like a nicer day today. It looked kind of foggy to me. “Yes, but you can see the sun through the fog” said Jill. This is now our definition of a “good” day. Packed up some suitcases in preparation for tomorrow. Actually, now (11:00) it’s pretty clear and we can see blue sly for the firs time in almost a week.
Left around 11:15 and drove the back roads towards Hautefort. Perigord looks better in the sunshine. Stopped in the pretty town of St. Orse for a mediocre baguette. Dave said bonjour to a couple of old ladies in the boulangerie , and also had a look at their Romanesque church and their sarcophagi out front. Also used their modern public toilets, a marvel for a town this size. Really, the only “pretty” town we’ve seen in these immediate parts. Caught a glimpse of Hautefort in the distance, and took photos as we got closer on a “green” road. Decided to postpone lunch in favor of a snack and go in before the last pre-lunch tour at 12:45. Unfortunately, the Michelin guide was out of date and the last tour was 12:00. At the same time we realized we had virtually no cash, and that the town of Hautefort didn’t have an ATM. Oops, we forgot to get cash in Thenon when we detoured around traffic stopped on the N89. Counted our pennies and realized we had 18€ and that admission would be 17€. And then we could always lie about Kristen’s age to save another 4€. So we relaxed and had our picnic. A French family also came to the picnic area, with a girl about Kristen’s age. She and Kristen exchanged looks, and I told the girl in French that Kristen didn’t speak French. Her name was Alexi, 6 years old. She and Kristen whistled to each other, and tried to communicate without a common language.
Took the 2 p.m. tour with our attractive guide. Most of the chateau’s interior was destroyed in a spectacular 1968 cigarette fire, so most of the interior we saw was “not a real chateau, but a spectacular reconstruction”. Actually, some interior rooms were saved, and the entire exterior.
The view, and gardens, were nice, but tough to photograph. Still privately owned by the Bastard Family Foundation. Mme. Bastard died in 1999 at 97, after overseeing 2 reconstructions in her lifetime.
Found an ATM on the way home. We had only 16 cents left after tipping the tour guide, so I guess we couldn’t postpone it any longer. Drove through the picturesque countryside to Cubjac, where I swear I saw an attractive riverside café the other day in the rain. I must have been hallucinating. Home at 4:30 .Christian and Valérie stopped by to tell us we had to pay 75E$ for cleaning , and to be out by 10 tomorrow. And for pleasantries. Turns out that it’s normal that the fireplace spews smoke through the house (actually “spew” is too strong.)
Tried dinner at Chez Paulette, the ferme-auberge, again, but fermé again. So we went back to the hotel in St. Pierre. Forgot to say that the first time there, I spoke with the owner Xavier about the Blues after hearing it on his stereo, and asking who it was. Turns out it was a local French Blues band! His favorite is Lightning Hopkins, “But John Lee Hooker is ok too”. Small world. Tonight – Dave – giant shrimp, seafood / shellfish with Camembert again, and Glace Perigordine (Walnuts w/ liquor). Jill – salade Perigordine, steak with foie gras sauce (delicious), and mixed sorbet. Kristen – garlic soup and the duck with morel sauce again. Kristen played with the owners’ 1 year old (Marine) on the way out again like last time. Didn’t have a chance to tell Xavier goodbye, but I asked a waitress to do so. He had come to the table to shake my hand after seeing us return. So to bed… Day 17 – 8/31/02 Finished packing up pretty quickly and after eggs were ready when Christian and Valérie arrived at 10. Exchanged pleasantries and money and hit the road. We were too early to check into Les Glycines, so one last trip to LeClerc for souvenirs. Jill couldn’t find anything – she’d already bought it all – so we just got water and gas. Then stopped in McDonald’s where Kristen had a Happy Meal and played in the “Aire De Jeux”. After hemming and hawing, we decided to try the cafeteria at the mall – quick and easy. It was ok – no sandwiches as Jill had hoped – but we had salmon, ham, pie, cheese, coffee, coke, etc. 13€. Could have had a bottle of wine too – opened by the cashier – but didn’t. Then south to Les Eyzies. No one on duty at 1 p.m. but at 2 we checked into our ok room with nice, new bathroom, and view of their very nice park.
Went downtown to look around – all souvenir shops – and saw a wedding taking place at the Mairie, with the Mayor out front wearing a ribbon sash. Somewhat less formal than in the US, but watching the parade of old cars, horns honking, and later hearing the church bells peal was fun. Spent most of the day by the pool. Dave enjoyed the topless French hotbody showing her daughter how to do cartwheels. Jill groaned. Kristen wants to go topless.
The girls are bathing, and its nice having some quiet time by the pool with just the splash of the fountain and the sun sinking. Dinner at 7:30. Swallows dive bombing into the pool. Had an ok dinner at Les Glycines. The staff just doesn’t seem friendly. Jill – pork filet, salad potato puree (very good), sorbet. Dave - fish, carpaccio of tuna, spoiled by Kristen who was being a little puissant and didn’t eat her fish. Day 18 – 9/1/02 This was the most perfect day of the trip, and a great note to leave the Perigord on. We were the last down for the 10€ breakfast, so got no eggs from the buffet but had croissants, baguettes, jam, coffee, tea, juice, etc. Kind of weak, but ok. Before breakfast, Dave had gone to the Font de Gaume cave to get tickets – 8 years ago we had missed out since they only allow 100 people per day in, to preserve the cave atmosphere. Font de Gaume contains the finest polychrome cave paintings still open to the public, anywhere. Our group of about 15, ½ English-speaking, saw red and black bison, deer, and maybe a horse (?) on our French tour. The guide, like most, spoke very clearly, so I understood some. The paintings were nice, but a little faded after 15,000 years! Rouffignac was clearer but not in color. Then it was back to the garden at Les Glycines for a sandwich lunch, followed by a tour at Le Grand Roc. Le Grand Roc is a stalactite / stalagmite cave discovered in 1924 by a guy who tunneled for 2 years to find it. Why?, I didn’t ask! But the cave was very nice and our guide Lisa was kind enough to translate for us – there were only about 7 on the tour. It was a small cave; they had to excavate a path to allow headroom. Kristen had the best view. Everything was still dripping and forming, but no spectacular 100 foot ceilings like we’ve seen in the past at Padriac. Home early for some pool time. The sun was nice and hot. Kristen and the little French girl (Leia) edged around each other. I introduced them but there wasn’t much interaction until Miss Hotbody (topless again) brought over the pickup sticks, and I brought over Kristen’s zoo animals. Leia, Mom and Grandma played pickup sticks – Kristen told them the English names of the Zoo animals and they told her the French. Apparently they had never seen a seal before. Kristen said “Tigre”, but not much more French.
Stayed at the pool till about 7, then off to the chateau-hotel restaurant in Campagne, where we had a great outdoor meal on their terrasse, served by a Chilean waiter fluent in French, English, Spanish and German. Jill – salad with toasted goat cheese, and flambéed crepes Grand Marnier. Dave – giant shrimp, steak, toasted goat cheese with honey. Kristen – jambon blanc and frites. Rosé wine, our best of the trip. 75€. Home around 10:30 or 11, where Kristen noticed the spectacularly clear sky as we pulled in to the parking lot. Dave went to the bar and got 2 Grand Marniers and we spent ½ hour looking at the stars and Milky Way. Kristen was nice all day. Day 19 – 9/2/02 Got up, packed up our stuff, skipped breakfast, and left Les Glycines 426€ poorer. Took some scenic roads to Cahors, passing Chateau Mercuès (first night) on the way. Got to Cahors around noon, looking for the cafes we had seen on day 1. We parked and found a couple, but it didn’t look quite right. We were going to go back to the car, but Kristen insisted she needed the bathroom immediately, so we went in a brasserie-type place. Kristen was super-pissy because Jill did not bring her toy bag. Lunch was mediocre but fast. Jill had a salad, Dave the buffet. Drove by the Pont Valentré one more time, then onto the autoroute for a 1 ½ hour drive south to Toulouse. Our entry into Toulouse was complicated by several factors – we had no map of town available (a little photocopy was packed), we didn’t have the street address of the hotel (just a general idea where it was), and the fact that Toulouse was a lot bigger and more sprawling than I realized.
We followed the Centre Ville signs looking for Place Wilson and our Citadines Apartment-Hotel Wilson. Found Centre Ville, approximately, but quickly got lost in bumper-to-bumper, construction-aggravated traffic. Jill got the little map from the trunk, slamming the hatchback on her head at a red light. It looked kinda funny in the rear view mirror, but wasn’t to her. Finally after about an hour, and the second time up the same street, Jill spied the hotel! But nowhere to park, or even stop the car. We had to park in an underground lot 4 blocks away. Kind of a crummy looking city, like New York was 15 years ago, with bums and panhandlers. But not the feeling of unease we had in Barcelona. High security at the hotel with an electronic key required to enter, a key, a passcode to exit the garage, etc. Unloaded all our stuff up from the hotel garage. Signage was so poor, I thought a utility closet was the elevator and complained. Oh yeah, they lost our reservation too, but fortunately had a room. By now we were pretty stressed out, and went out for a beer. Walked about 6 blocks to the old part of town and waited for a waiter who never came. Jill got pissed and made us leave. Took Kristen on a carousel, found another outdoor café, had the beer, felt better. After forgetting Kristen’s toys again, Jill took her to Monoprix for some stuff. Kristen committed the faux pas of the day, dropping and breaking a glass. Found another nice outdoor café for dinner. Jill – salad and cassoulet, Dave – foie gras paté salad and cassoulet. All excellent. Too stuffed for dessert. Had a Grand Marnier and wine and OJ at a café, then in bed around 11, all packed.
Remind me to avoid cities on relaxing trips. Day 20 – 9/3/02 Got up before our 7:30 wakeup call. Out by 8:15. had no problem finding the airport, but no gas stations so had to return the car half full. Our 10:30 flight was cancelled, but we were able to get on the 9:40 (that didn’t leave till 10:30, anyway). Uneventful flights, punctuated by Kristen’s unwillingness to eat anything and being really nasty in Charles de Gaulle airport because she wanted a Barbie. After an extensive (3-4 hour) layover at CDG, we boarded our flight to Newark. Kristen is now in a good mood again, and so is Jill after a glass of wine. Dinner should be served soon, and Bob & Joyce are picking us up. Au revior, till next time! Total, including everything: $7,474.05 |
|
All content Copyright © 1979 - 2008, David Siebenheller Unauthorized Reproduction Prohibited |
