2008 Hawaii

Click any photo to enlarge to 600x800!

We took over 1300 photos on this trip, and I've tried to whittle them down to the best of the best. Enjoy!

Day 1 6/17/08

Travel, travel, travel.

Left home at 10:30am, picked up a hero, and up to Staten Island, where Bob ferried us to the airport.

Caught the 1:30 Continental nonstop to Honolulu. Things got off to an inauspicious start when the overhead bin was dripping a mysterious liquid onto Jill and Kristen. Maintenance was called, the captain was standing by checking it out, and no one could stop the drip. Very weird. Finally, a judicious application of duct tape around the handle solved it.

Bulkhead seats again, and Jill ordered us special meals of which my Seafood was the least appetizing.

On the road again!

Long and dull flight but really for 10 hours, it wasn't that bad. I think it's because we were expecting a long trip. Unfortunately we did not have the brand new Continental custom "video at your seat" experience. Actually, I didn't even turn the screen on. The girls watched a couple of movies. I caught some ZZZZZs.

Arrived in Honolulu around 7 pm and switched to Hawaiian Air after a long walk and shuttle bus. The airport is small but the gates were a mile apart.

Short half hour flight on Hawaiian Air, with 3 stewardesses, to Kona, on the Big Island of Hawaii. Most of the airport is outdoors, including baggage claim, which is kind of cool. Dave and Kristen got the car while Jill got the bags.

Found the condo easily enough in the pitch dark, but I forgot what unit we were in. Tried to use the lockbox on another unit and scared the tenants' kids, who thought we were trying to break in. Called the caretakers on a cell phone and finally got in around 9pm, or 3am NY time. 16 1/2 hours.

Had a couple of Longboat beers (Kona brewed) and then to bed around 10.

Day 2

This was planned to be a mellow day, and actually so was the whole trip. Jill and Kristen were up at 4 but Dave slept in till 7 with medical assistance. The condo looks really really nice, the only thing missing is an alarm clock. I think we'll buy an alarm watch instead of collecting another clock radio.

Our condo on the Big Island

The place was perfect

Here is the VRBO Link.

The place is on the 2nd floor, with elevator. Overlooking a fairway and a green of the Waikoloa Beach course. Lanai has a teak table and chairs, and an outdoor kitchen with built in BBQ and granite counter and sink. 2 flat screen TVs, granite kitchen, marble floors, wifi, brand new, great bathrooms, large and priced great. You couldn't ask for more.
The View from our Lanai

Weather is in the 80s and a little breezy. It was actually a little warm today for my taste. We needed AC in the car but not the house.
View from the front door
The owner Jonathan Stirling stopped by with his Russian wife Natasha and spent about 1/2 hour going over stuff. Very nice guy and he runs a tight ship. The place is immaculate. He has written a mini guide and sent me a copy. He owns several properties including Saas Fee Switzerland, and the Spanish coast. I'm gonna have to get some advice from him!

Condo
Went to Costco and shopped for the trip. We got a big jar of macadamia nuts, and the girls got leis. Then stopped at the Mrs. Barry Cookie Co. for a few free samples and an assortment at the recommendation of the owner.

Back home for lunch of Costco chicken, then to the pool across he street. It's small but private, and we were virtually the only ones there. Called the parents. It sprinkled a bit (hey I thought it only rained 5 days a year here?) and now Jill is making pasta salad and I'm typing on the lanai. Jonathan called to see if we needed anything, and I told him we were probably going to Tommy Bahama's for drinks. He said he is too, so we'll probably see him there.
More Lanai View

The island is gorgeous, if lava-strewn, and a guy I met at Costco (Trans-Alaska pipeline, 30 years) said we're staying at the right place.

Went to to the pool, it's nice and no one was there but us. Small but it has a waterfall and it's big enough for Kristen and me.
Our Pool

Cleaned up and went to Tommy Bahama's for dinner up at the Mauna Lani resort area. Very nice and surprisingly classy, open air with a nice view. Get this - shrimp appetizer, quesadilla, lemonade and 2 mai tais - with tip - $75! That ended up being dinner. Entrees were $30-40 so even Diamond Jim's wife decided to bag it. This is going to be an expensive trip. Saw Jonathan and Natasha at the bar; they had just come back from 1/2 price dinner at the Thai place. He's just like me - cheap but he knows how to spend his money on good stuff, like condos.

Tommy Bahama's

Home and bed before 9.

Day 3

It was a little gray upon waking and we decided to take a drive to Waimea and Waipi'o valley overlook. So after frosted flakes (we have about 10 lbs. from Costco) we headed out thru the lava desert scrub of Kohala to the uplands of Waimea. As soon as we got near Waimea, the climate changed, the grass greened up and it got cooler (2500' elevation.) Obviously it rains here a lot more often. The Big Island has 11 of the world's 13 climate zones.

Waimea didn't thrill us, after all it has 3 stop lights and it is way too big for our tastes. It's home of the Parker Ranch, the largest cattle ranch in the USA. Hard to believe.

Drove to Waipi'o and parked and walked down the very steep path to the overlook. The view is spectacular, with the ocean, a black sand beach, the ridiculously steep valley sides and the lush green flatlands. You need a 4WD vehicle to descend to the valley, since one section has a 25 degree grade. We thought about a $55pp drive down to the valley and one hour open cart ride but Dave vetoed it. Later in the evening, Jonathan offered to lend us his 4WD for the trip next time we come.

Waipi'o Valley Overlook

Backtracked into Honoka'a where the girls looked around some shops while Dave sat on a big curb. Then onward towards Hilo. It got more and more rainforest-y and even rained a little.
Honoka'a Theatre and Marquee

Found a cheesy little State recreation area about 5000 square feet, but it had a bathroom, covered picnic tables, and a view of the jungle, so it hit the spot. Picnic lunch and then onward.
Lunch is Served

Our Wheels
Followed The Big Island Revealed somewhat and took a diversion down the old highway. Dave and Kristen went in and got a smoothie at a country store and chatted with the woman. Some eccentric characters entered the place. Like from the 60's. The woman told Kristen she'd better give me a sip - "You know how many sips of stuff your Dad has given you?"
On the Road

Stopped at the Hawaii Botanical garden and enjoyed some plants a $15 pp. Saw a kid spearfishing for shrimp.
Hawaii Botanical Garden

Back down the narrow winding old highway, past waterfalls, etc. Then rejoined the new highway near Hilo and turned back toward home. Stopped at Akaka Falls, upland from the ocean with sweeping view of the Pacific on the way up and back. The falls are around 400' high I think and pretty cool.
Akaka Falls
Back home thru Honoka'a where the girls got some bead stuff at an old bead store where the woman knew she had stuff somewhere in here but couldn't quite find it. The did get some nuts that had been drilled for beading for Christie.

Back down the mountain and we were in dire need of the pool so took a dip in our enclave. Jonathan and Natasha stopped by again with a gift of Macadamia popcorn for Kristen.

Bad premade MaiTais from a bottle, then Dave grilled some NY strips on the outdoor grill which we had with pasta salad and salad for a really nice meal on the lanai. A helluva lot cheaper then Tommy Bahama's too!
Dinner is Served
In bed around 9:30 and snoring 3 minutes later.

Day 4

d Mauna Loa from the condo

Up before 6 again, Jill prepared our lunch and dinner, ate more Frosted Flakes and Kona coffee and headed to the Manua Kea Hotel's beach for the day.

In Hawaii all beaches are public, and the Mauna Kea opens 40 parking spots a day for public access. Plus, the famous hotel was damaged in an earthquake a couple of years ago and they decided to completely gut the place. Even the golf course. So combine the 2 and you have one of the top 10 beaches in the country with few people. It was great. A white sand crescent, waters ranging from turquoise to dark blue. Few waves in the morning. Great snorkeling.

We (mostly Jill) hauled our stuff to the beach and had a great time. Even had shade under a tree. Dave and Kristen snorkeled for a couple of hours and it was fun to do that again. Saw lots of fish, sea urchins, sea stars, etc. It was Kristen's first snorkel expedition and I think she fell in love with it, at least until she swallowed a little too much water and we decided to go in. Ate our picnic lunch and later in the afternoon had a maitai, and juice mocktail, for $15 from the Mauna Kea's outdoor bar, which is still open. Certainly got our $10 worth of rum in the MaiTai and Dave immediately fell asleep for 1/2 hour after drinking it. We were there from about 9-3.

Mauna Kea Beach

Our view included island maidens

MaiTai Time!

Did a drive-by of some other beaches on the way home that are more for the general public, or for people who can't get to the Mauna Kea early enough for one of the 40 spots. Nice but not as nice as where we were today.

Home for a much needed shower, a movie for Kristen and now a diary update on the very windy but still warm lanai. The wind may be 20mph but I'm still shirtless. Earlier, started to learn Tiptoe Through the Tulips on the Ukulele I brought from home! The other night I was screwing around with The Beatles' Honey Pie.

Couple of Coronas and going to get the grill fired up for some chicken tonight.
Condo View

Day 5

Up too early again. It's like we're 3/4 adjusted to the time difference and can't completely adjust.

Out before 9 on a tour of North Kohala. First a drive upland to Waikoloa village, a condo complex for non-millionaires about 7 miles inland. Got some drops to defog the snorkel masks. Then up thru the lava moonscape, past part of Parker Ranch into Waimea. Got $60 worth of gas at $4.54 per gallon, then up onto Rt. 250 towards Hawi on the northern coast.

The road was spectacular, with 50-mile views down the Kohala and Kona coasts. We got up to 3500' elevation, and it was around 70 degrees. Few pullouts, but plenty of places to pull over, and no traffic. Very windy. Supposedly, if the wind stops blowing, the cows fall over! Took some photos. We can see the road from our condo (10+ miles away), but I couldn't identify the Hilton property from up here, even with binoculars.
North Kona

Mauna Kea

Kohala Coast views back towards our condo

As we descended towards Hawi, it started raining, then pouring. But it was localized, and by the time we were in Hawi it had stopped. The girls did some shopping and Jill got some really cool stickers to put on my ukulele. Antique looking. And Kristen a sarong and snow globe.

Proceeded past magnificent blue Pacific Ocean views to the end of the road at Pololu Valley overlook. Very much like Waipi'o valley overlook, which is along the same coast at the end of another road on the north coast.
Kid's fantasy

Pololu Valley

Anyone for a Hike?

After photos, doubled back on the road for lunch at Hapu'u Bay. Another under-maintained state facility, it had shaded picnic tables and a great view of the bay.
I'm telling you, we see one on every trip

Hapu'u Bay
Stopped at King Kamehamea's birthplace and checked out his statue, which has it's own shipwreck/recovery story. Thru Hawi and then down the east Kohala coast
The One and Only

The East coast is totally deserted and lava-strewn with dark blue water views. Jill spotted some Sand Grouse at a historic park, she has sharp eyes since they completely blended into the landscape. Enjoyed the (hot) views and then eventually stopped at Kawaihae for our first Shave Ices - lime/coconut, raspberry/chocolate,, and coconut/pineapple. Now THAT hit the spot and cooled us off.
Kohala Coast

Yes it was really this blue

That would be Haleakala on Maui

No one you know

Came back home and went right back in our private pool around 3pm. Felt great. Then the girls checked out the Queens and Kings markets and I met them at Merriman's for a mediocre happy hour of Maitais, lemonade, tiny pizza, fries and Caesar salad for $62. On the way back we spotted a mongoose (one of many) running across the parking lot in front of us, and when I beeped, he jumped about a foot in the air. The girls were in hysterics.
100 year old pathway

Jill is enjoying bird watching and has spotted a lot of species, including turkeys. Mynah birds all over.

Jill was not the only birder

Home, where we watched the same 10 people win a bunch of Hawaiian Music Awards that were presented by very large women in Muu-Muus (on TV). In bed before 10.

Day 6

Beach day today at Hapuna. The next beach over from Mauna Kea beach, actually. It's more frequented by locals and it's a State Park. The sand is 200' wide and probably 1/2 mile long.
Hapuna Beach
There was a mini reef in the middle of the beach where Kristen and I snorkeled. The wind kicked up and it got a little rough, so we just swam after that. The snorkeling was pretty good.

Picnic on the beach with some chicken sandwiches, and later in the day we had shave ices.

Got hot and tired and came home to the pool around 3. Struck up a conversation with 2 older couples during a mini Rain Delay, and it turns out they are renting another unit from Jonathan Stirling! They say it's the best they've ever rented.

Dinner at Dara's Thai restaurant. It was recommended by Mr. Stirling between 5-6 pm, since it's half price. In contrast to a poor review in our guidebook, we were actually quite pleased. We had spring rolls, dumplings, Kristen had wonton soup, Jill had a Cornish Game Hen thing and Dave had Green Curry seafood. With a spicy Bangkok Mojito and 2 drinks for Jill, plus 2 Dr. Peppers, the tab came to $91 with a generous tip. We'll be back.

Stopped on the way home to watch the sunset.
Sunset from Waikoloa Village
Kristen collected some coconuts down below after dinner and now is relaxing in front of the TV, gloating that our TV is so much nicer than the "tiny" TV the people downstairs are watching.

Day 7

Girls got up and walked to the Hilton today to check out where tomorrow's Dolphin Quest will be held. Around lunch I picked them up and we drove towards Kona to check it out. Was tempted to pick up the yellow Lambourghini's keys at the Hilton valet but decided not to. The Pontiac G6 is enough car for me.
Hilton lobby with tram
Kristen really wanted a hot dog, plus we needed to buy an alarm watch, so we stopped at Costco for lunch. Yeah, go ahead and laugh, but the three of us ate pizza, hot dogs and a Caesar salad with drinks for $10. The Caesar salad alone at the Hilton was $17. Costco didn't have the watch though, so we had to stop at WalMart.

Kona was a bust, kind of like Myrtle Beach but crappier and older. Not worth the time. We'll be going back next weekend for a festival at a park, but overall it was a waste. We did stop at the beachfront Huggo's bar, that was on Jill's todo list. We really partied down with 2 iced teas and a lemonade, plus a bag of chips for $10. The place was outdoor waterfront, but really just a dive bar.
Huggo's in the Vog
There was a thick fog over Kona and I wondered if it was fog or Vog (Volcanic fog / sulfuric acid fog.) I think it was Vog.

Drove back home and went to the pool. Took a couple of underwater pictures that came out surprisingly well.

Dinner of steaks on the grill and salad and baked potato. Chatted with the guy downstairs from Seattle. He has 3 daughters under 6, and they went coconut collecting just like Kristen. You can never have too many coconuts. Kristen has about 10.

Tomorrow - Dolphins!

Day 8

Up and out early; we had to be at Dolphin Quest at the Hilton by 8:15.

Kristen was in a group of 6: a family of four, her and another girl.
Dolphin Quest
They spent about 45 minutes in the water with the dolphins and she loved it. It was worth it ($250). They did some education, they petted the dolphins (Kristen says they're very very smooth), they kissed them on the lips, Kristen did the backstroke with one (sunbathing I think) the dolphins did some leaps and tricks. The dolphins seem to love their life - I was watching the trainers feed them before the interactions and they were very gentle and loving with them.

Worth every penny

After Dolphin Quest we headed to the awesome freeform pool. It could hold 1000 people, at least. Fixed bridges, a swinging bridge, tiki bar, awesome 150' water slide, waterfalls that gave a helluva massage, etc. We spent all day there. Jill had procured a magic bracelet that allowed use of the water slide, and a bunch of towels from Dolphin Quest. We looked like we belonged there. Had a $27 cafeteria lunch of one slice of bad pizza, a muffin and a caesar salad for the 3 of us, plus a drink. Kristen went down the slide 25 times.
The Hilton Pool (better photos later in the diary)

Jill went back to Dolphin Quest and got 3 prints made of Kristen with the Dolphins. They were very professionally done and worth the $35. My pix and movies were from further away; the pro ones were right up close. Dad had a maitai.

Took some underwater photos and rode the tram around. Now we're back home and Jill is preparing stuffed chicken cutlets for me to grill.
At the Hilton

Suspension bridge

Day 9

Tourism day today, out to Hilo via the Saddle Road.

First, I had to go to Fedex at the airport. We had 3 concert tickets that we had bought prior to planning the trip. I listed the tickets on Stubhub and Craigslist and 2 of the 3 sold last night. We ended up coming out a little ahead on the deal, and I gave one buyer a free ticket in the bargain. Since the tickets sold thru Stubhub, I had to convince the manager at Fedex to let me access the internet, logon to Stubhub and print out the pre-printed Fedex shipping label. She did, it worked, and 15 minutes later I was walking out with a smile on my face. But between that and getting gas, we lost about 1-2 hours.

Hit the Saddle Road around 11 or so, after getting lost and having an argument. The Saddle Road was built by the army in WWII on an emergency basis, and conforms to no national guidelines regarding dips, sight lines, curves, banked turns, etc. Plus the first half hasn't been paved in about 35 years. Many rental car companies prohibit you from driving on it, but our guidebook and our owner said it was no big deal, so we took it. It really only matters if you are relying on their CDW, and we are not.
Upcountry
It runs up to about 6500', between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Great views of both, and all the way back to the sea. Totally deserted country, lots of lava, dry grass and old cinder cones on the way up. You can also catch small roads up to the top of Mauna Loa (another 7000') where all the telescopes are. We didn't.
Saddle Road
The road was in bad shape but driveable. Some moron tried to pass me going downhill approaching a one lane bridge and had to skid to avoid an accident. Damn Kids!

We stopped at the top for a picnic lunch, it smelled and looked like New Mexico or Colorado, ranchland and dry pines. Met some guys who said to go to the Farmer's market in Hilo, it was a good recommendation and I ran into them there.
Lunch
The way down the mountain was freshly paved, graded, and brought up to national standards. Very nice. Didn't hit the gas for about 20 miles.

In Hilo, we first found Banyan Drive and admired the old Banyan trees planted by the likes of FDR, Nixon, Amelia Earhart, etc. Then a stop at Liliuokalani Gardens, a Japanese garden, by the sea and very nicely done.
Liliuokalani Gardens
Then we found the farmer's market in the small downtown and spent about an hour. The girls got good deals on sarongs and other souvenir items, plus a couple of fresh limeades, ice cream and Maui onions. We stupidly forgot to get a pineapple though.

Then it was a quick tour of Rainbow falls, Boiling Pots, and Peepee Falls. (Pronounced pay-uh-pay-uh; get your mind out of the gutter.) Unfortunately, the Wailuku River that powers them was way down in volume and the attractions were not especially impressive.
Peepee Falls

The One and Only
Stopped and asked a guy where we could find the Naha Stone. It was in front of the library. The story is that an old legend foretold that the person who could lift it would become the first ruler of all the Hawaiian Islands. Kamehameha at age 14 was able to flip it, just as the priests were getting ready to condemn him to death for trying and failing. Kamehameha then indeed went on to become the first King of all Hawaii. The stone is about 15 feet long and 2-3 feet square. Kristen tried and failed to budge it, but I forgave her and did not condemn her to death.
Naha Stone
Then it was on to Hilo Hattie's, a famous souvenir and clothing shop that I kind of dreaded, but was a must-do. Well, now I know why it's so popular, the bargains are outstanding. We got 3 tee shirts, a hat, a black pearl, salad tongs, sarongs, 2 tiki god souvenirs, a wood platter, Kukui nut necklace, and a keychain for about $80. We're going back on Friday on the way to the volcano.

Hilo Hattie's

Back home over the Saddle Road; it didn't seem so long this time. About 1.5 hours. Went out for Thai food, about $80 and very good, but we ordered it too spicy for Kristen. She has an ice cream on the way home.
Saddle Road

Day 10

Mellow day today. Went back to the Hilton with the intent of spending the day at the lagoon, but didn't really like the looks of the situation so much, so went back to the pool. Just hung out all day. Kristen made a friend Carmen, we had paninis for lunch and a Blue Hawaiian and a a Pipeline drink later in the day.
Hilton Lagoon & Pool
We're teaching Kristen bad things; she went up to the towel and bracelet guy and gave him a bogus room number so we could be legit with towels for the day. And so she could use the slide again.

Dinner tonite is leftover chicken on salads on the lanai. Jill is wearing her blue sarong. Kristen is watching TV.

Tomorrow - Volcano!

Day 11

Too much driving today. A 12 hour trip.

We left around 9 via the Saddle Road to Hilo. No big deal this time. Nice views and uncrowded roadway. Stopped and got Kristen's photo by a giant fern (or was it a palm?)
Saddle Road
Stopped in Hilo Hattie's for some more souvenirs; the Hawaiian shirt with guitars was not different enough from my other one so we said forget it.

Had an early lunch in McDon7ald's and headed to Volcano National Park. Stopped in the Visitor's Center and got a good overview. Plus 2 movies. Unfortunately, one movie spoke of so many precautions when viewing flowing lava that Jill got totally turned off from the whole experience. (Gloves, long pants, 1/2 gallon water, flashlight, etc.) That stuff, plus the fact that the lava flowing into the ocean was 1.5 hours drive each way, plus a cross-lava hike, and we decided to forget it. Next time (haha).

We did enjoy the volcano views, though they were very Voggy. Kilauea is now spewing 250 tons a day of sulfur dioxide, which they call Vog. About half the park was closed, and they advised closing car windows. By the time we left my lungs were congested and my voice was a little hoarse.

Pele has spewed approximately 270 Million (!) dump trucks full of lava since this eruption began in 1983!
7 Kilauea
We did take a ranger walk, view the volcano, check out Thurston lava tube, and Devastation trail, though. Towards the end of the day we headed down Chain of Craters road and saw some recent lava flows. (They don't look any different than the 300 year old flows near the condo.) We descended several thousand feet to the shore, but the hike to where the lava had crossed the road was a hot half mile and we aborted the mission. We also took a side trail (a one lane road) hoping to see Nene (the Hawaiian national bird, a goose) but failed. One lane, 9 miles long, twisting and turning, and few opportunities to turn around. Looked like the moon with dead trees.

Nene Crossing

Steam Vents

Kilauea

Devastation Trail

Thurston Lava Tube

Alert!

We did see the steam plume from the lava-ocean interaction in the distance.
Chain of Craters Road

By this time it was about 6 and I figured we had about a 2 hour drive home. The girls had a couple of soggy sandwiches, mine was soaked so I skipped dinner and just drove. The first and last parts of the road were in good shape, wide and fast (55+). The middle section was horrendous, twisting and turning, following other cars the whole way, 35 mph. By the time we got home it was 9:30 and we were all in bad moods. 3+ hours. There was a better way to combine the Hilo and Volcano trips to see more and drive less, and we should have planned better. Oh well.

Day 12

Taking it easy this morning, just hanging around, Jill is doing a lot of laundry and packing. (Is it that time already?)

We heard Mccartney's "Ram On" on the Ipod yesterday (in the car) so I looked up the Ukulele tab on the web this morning and figured it out. It's hot and the tradewinds have died to about nothing, so it seems hotter. later today we'll go to a beach and that's about it.

Kristen wrote a couple of postcards. I'm hungry and we have nothing in the house.

...

Jill went out for Subway. We hung out at the pool till 4ish. We spent a lot of time talking to an owner who is also a friend of Jonathan's. Got some good info about the complex, prices, etc. These 2 guys are activists who keep an eye on the developer, who still owns 38 units he is trying to unload. A lot of other owners are absentees who don't get involved much.
Pool
After baking in the hottest sun yet, we drove down to Kona to get some groceries and gas, and check out some beaches. The Vog is the heaviest yet, and I had a sore throat from talking on the ride back. Tonite we have the AC on for the first time due to heat and Vog.

We got some Rum and Orange / Pineapple / coconut juice which made pretty good Maitais with Rum. A little too strong after being in he sun all day though. Also got some Ahi tuna Poke which was ok. Jill prepped chicken and potatoes and I cooked them on the grill.

Girls watching a bad movie on the Disney channel and I'm getting ready for bed.

Day 13

Up and out to Honaunau, There's a Hawaiian Cultural type festival today at this National Park Service site.
Honaunau
We arrived around 10 and waited on line at the pavilion for a food tasting. Behind us was a very friendly woman who worked as a coffee picker (Kona Coffee, you know) and it was her first time at the festival despite the fact that it's been held here for 35 years. We chatted with her for a while and she told us how to eat poi.

At the food area we had several local favorites including dried octopus, crab legs (the small black guys you see scurrying on the rocks), semi dried beef (tasted like beef jerky but softer), breadfruit (dry and nasty), coconut pudding (good) and kalua pig (they saved the best for last). That was fun.

After food, there were a bunch of activities. besides checking out the ancient site, Kristen made a lei for her wrist from scratch, a basket from palm leaves and a wooden fishhook. Jill also persuaded a guy to make Kristen a nose flute despite the fact that he was closing up shop. He was the ranger from the Volcanoes national Park the other day, now dressed in traditional garb. He took a lengh of bamboo and burned 4 holes clean through it in order to make the flute. Damn, but we still can't play it.

Crafts at Honaunau
We also checked out the site, which was an ancient place of refuge and a sacred site. besides hosting numerous human sacrifices (none while we were there) the location was a place of refuge. If you broke a taboo, you could run here and get absolved for your crimes by a priest, and all was forgiven. But if they caught you first, they killed you. Must have been quite dramatic! In Letters From Hawaii, Mark Twain writes of paying a local to take him here by canoe, and he tells the story of people getting caught and killed a few steps from the front door of the temple.

Hula

Stopped by the Painted Church, which a Catholic priest had painted with colorful scenes, reminiscent of Europe, in the 1800s. He must have been bored but he did a nice job.
Painted Church

After a fun time, we headed back north and stopped for a late lunch at the ALoha Angel Cafe south of Kona. When Jill realized how big the portions were she cancelled her order and just mooched off my nachos and Kristen's 1/2 pound burger. Good and overpriced as usual.

Then on to Kaloko-Honokohau, a one-staffer National Park Service property where we saw other amazingly recreated ancient structures and our first sea turtles (about 2-3 feet across.)

Kaloko-Honokohau

Stopped in Safeway again on the way home for stuff we forgot yesterday.

Day 14

A beach day.

We got up and Jill packed. Scrounged what we could for breakfast then hit Hapuna Beach and enjoyed the surf and had a picnic.

Hapuna is a public beach, about 200 feet wide and 1/2 mile long at least. It's the next beach south of Mauna Kea. We found some shade since we were early, and went in and out of the water for a few hours, until we had a shave ice at a beach pavilion where they forgot our order.
Hapuna Beach
Went back to the pool and chatted with Don again, after waking him.

For dinner it was Dara's Thai again, with a decent (half) price between 5 and 6, and an awesome Bangkok Mojito (a mojito with hot peppers).

We were wiped and relaxing when Jonathan stopped by to say goodbey and chat for a while.

Day 15

A Transit Day

Got up early at 5:15 (watch was set for 6) and were out towards the airport at 6:45. Curbside checkin, quick rental car return, an hour wait, and we were on our way to Honolulu.

Quick flight, and it was annoying to have to get off the plane, which was headed to Kauai, and wait an hour in the terminal for our flight. Especially since the flight was not full.

Got some pictures of Oahu on takeoff and enjoyed the emerald blue waters for 35 minutes to Lihue.

It was great to see Kristen's reaction when I picked the girls up at baggage claim. I was in a red Mustang convertible that she had no idea we were renting. She squealed with delight.

Since we were early for condo checkin, we went to lunch at Lihue Barbecue Inn. It was right near the airport in a semi industrial area. A workingman's diner kind of place. Jill and I had kalua pig; Kristen had a hamburger. it was very good and only $25. The lunches came with fruit, bread, iced tea, fries and pie. Both the coconut and banana were very good. But the portions were not too big and we can eat dinner.

Then on to Costco and the grocery for supplies. Jill bought about 3 dinners worth, and now she regrets it cause it looks like there are some decent restaurants in the area.

We checked in to the condo, which is very attractive externally. The reason we got it is for the million dollar oceanfront view, and it looks amazing. The accommodations themselves are mediocre in my mind, but once I looked around for a while I realized why. It needs some updating, which is ok, but the couch and accompanying shag rug are truly grotesque. Turns out the owner must be Japanese. If the offending items wewe replaced, the place would be nice in a dark wood Hawaiian sort of way. But regardless, it's fine and the view is amazing. Plus, there is a new infinity pool overlooking the ocean that is spectacular. And Jill likes the condo because it is unusually well stocked with all the essentials and them some - paper products, spices, knives, glasses, etc.

Here is a link to the condo.

Views from our condo

After settling in we spent a couple of hours at the pool. Dad immediately made an idiot of himself by going in the water with the camera in his pocket. Moron! I immediately realized it and had it on dry land within 10 seconds. i took out the battery and memory card and we'll let it dry in the sun for a day and see how it fares.

Condo

Then we put down the top and took the Mustang for a test drive to Spouting Horn. Spouting Horn is a lava shelf, and when waves enter underneath, they force water up thru holes to form geysers about 20 feet in the air. Pretty cool, and this is with calm water.

Drove around, checked out Poipou beach and had drinks at Keoki's Paradise, where they let Kristen sit at the bar. She had a Shirley Temple (since the bartender had no imagination); Dad had a lava Flow (too gay) and Jill had a Plantation Lemonade (very good).

Back home now where I am typing the diary on the Lanai with ocean view; and Jill is cooking a Costco pizza for dinner. (The pizza was really good and we'll have to try it at home.)

(No pictures due to the bonehead wet camera move. There wasn't much, anyway.)

Day 16

Up early. Jill made eggs and ham for breakfast. Last night was kind of warm - there's no AC and the breezes were minimal. Fortunately there is a ceiling fan and fans on stands so we were able to cope. And the sound of waves crashing on the rocks.

Made helicopter reservations for Saturday with Jack Harter in an open, no doors chopper.

Tried the camera but it was dead. (It never did recover.)

Jill saw some large fish leaping out of the water thru binoculars - tuna feeding frenzy?

Went to Costco for a replacement camera and found almost the exact model I drowned, that can use the same memory and charger, for $149. A cheap way out of my moron move. Fortunately the battery was (mostly) charged, so we were able to get thru most of the day without needing to go home and charge up. Jill got us all a hot dog and churro for a snack since we were starving.

Headed west to Waimea canyon, the so called Grand Canyon of the Pacific. In about a half hour we were in the town of Waimea.
Kauai Driving
Another half hour or so of climbing to 3500 feet, and we started to see some overlooks. The canyon really did look like the Grand Canyon, but greener, and of course smaller. It was a little hazy too, so the photos won't be the best. But hey at least we have a camera!

Waimea Canyon

Stopped in the park for a light lunch and we got Kristen some stickers for her nose flute, just like the stickers on my Uke.

Then we proceeded on to the last 2 overlooks on the road at Kalalau and Pu'uokla.

When we approached Kalalau, the girls were in the lead and I gave a "thumbs up / down" across the field, inquiring whether it was worth the walk. Jill replied with the same and said it was changing. Sure enough, within about 2 minutes, we went from fully clouded to a partially-revealed view. But not just any view. Possibly the most amazing in the Pacific and certainly one of th most spectacular we've ever seen. A 6000 foot drop, thru clouds, to a deserted valley. Surrounded by jagged sawtooth peaks, and the Pacific in the distance. Amazing. Jill had tears in her eyes. It was like the hand of God revealed just for you.
Kalalau Lookout

And to think we'll be helicoptering thru it in a couple of days!

Someone else noticed a couple of psycho hikers on a ridge 500 feet below, possibly about to descend. The book says the ancient nickname for this hike is the Scrotum Tightener and I can see why.

After this amazing experience we descended back to Waimea via an alternate route with amazing canyon and Pacific views... but we ran out of battery so will have to return in a few days.

We've listed everything we want to do on Kauai and a week isn't enough. This trip has gone so fast.

Stopped at Jojo's (!) Shaved Ice once back down and it hit the spot. The best of the trip. Jill took the wheel for the drive home and we all had a dip in the pool. Then dinner at Keoki's again, $96 with appetizer, entrees and 5 drinks with a good tip for good service. We enjoyed the 2 musicians too.

Looks like another warm night ahead.

Day 17

Got up and planned the rest of our trip, since we have so little time left. Today ended up being the day to drive to the North Shore.

Jill saw Spinner Dolphins out in the water, taking a couple of leaps.

Drove past the airport, stopped at a craft sale for more souvenirs (Kristen got a shell windchime) It was too hot and humid to put the roof down so we drove with the AC on. Stopped at several North Shore beaches, and the lighthouse at Kilauea Point. The lighthouse, decommissioned, was on a point with great views and lots of seabirds, including nesting Shearwaters, and boobies and Tropic Birds circling. The sky wasn't blue, but it was pretty.
Kilauea Point with nesting Shearwater

Then it was on to Hanalei, where we ate at the Taco stand recommended by the ranger. I had a fish taco, the girls had meat and they were huge, and good, but overpriced at $36 with drinks.
Hanalei and tacos

Drove to the end of the road at Ke'e and roadside parking was packed with beachgoers, despite the rough surf and possible un-swimmability. We stayed out of the water and just watched, and took a lot of photos.
North Shore Beaches

And caves, with our wheels
Back home via the same road (highway 56), a final stop at Hilo Hattie's for souvenirs and freebies, Costco gas, and back home in traffic with the roof down around 5 or so. Went in the pool, then BBQ'd some NY Strip steaks on the communal grills for a nice dinner on the patio with a bottle of red. Bed before 10.
Tree Tunnel

Day 18

A word about Chickens.

Kauai is infested with chickens. Millions of chickens. At stoplights. At rest areas. In the Costco parking lot. On the highway median. Everywhere. Roosters, hens, chicks of all sizes and colors. It's ridiculous. They crow, fortunately not at our condo. (That right is reserved for the begging sparrows, who scream once every half second from dawn to dusk.) The bass player at the bar asked that everyone just bring one chicken home to solve the problem. I don't think that would do it. They outnumber the people. Good luck with it, I'm surprised they don't trap and eat them.

Chickens chickens chickens

There are also many wild cats on the Hawaiian Islands, and they have been around since Twain's time. I suggested to one local that they just have the cats kill the chickens, he said no, they can't do that, the chickens beat the crap out of the cats. So much for my solution.

Woke up to cloudy skies and a little rain, but it's now clearing and looking good for a beach day. The sun is just coming out. I'm sitting outside enjoying the view and Kristen is eating leftover pizza for breakfast. Morons in the condo complex are feeding the sparrows, which just makes them scream more and beg more. It's too early for this....

We planned for the day to be a day at Poipu beach. We got there pretty early and camped on the sand and it was pretty windy - too windy for the beach umbrella. We hung out and watched, and it looked like the famous Poipu Beach had lost a lot of its sand, probably in Hurricaine Iniki in 1996, and never regained it. Too rocky and too windy. We gave up.

Poipu Beach

So we decided to kind of do the plan for another day, which was the beaches past Waimea on the south cozst. When we got there it also was windy and the surf looked a little unfriendly. We proceeded down the coast and it got really deserted; this had been sugar country until the company abandoned ship and the area became depressed, in the 70s or 80s I think.

So it was back to Waimea for lunch at Barefoot Burgers, where Kristen and I were indeed barefoot in swimsuits and no one cared. The owner said it wasn't really a good swim day. So after burgers we headed to Salt Pond Park.
Barefoot Burgers
Many locals had brought their tents, grills, etc. to the park for their 4th of July picnics. The beach was swimmable due to an offshore reef, but not particularly attractive (for Hawaii). We hung out about 2 hours then left to go back to the southern portion of the Waimea Canyon drive, where we ran out of camera battery the other day.
Salt Pond Park

The drive was just as nice the second time around and we took lots of pictures of the canyon and views.

Lower Waimea Canyon

More shave ice at JoJos, then back home to get ready for the luau.

Jojo's in Waimea was a favorite

The best on the island is supposedly at Smith's, around an hour's drive away, so we opted for the one at the Sheraton, about a 3 minute drive. It was ok in a kitschy way. Kristen liked it. And the food was really good for luau buffet food - I had a bunch of different dishes and all were good except one. The Ahi Poke was the best I've had, and I had a salmon ceviche type thing that was also excellent. The dancers were ok in a cruise ship kind of way. The highlight was the fire dancer guy from Samoa; he was funny and had a personality as he interacted with the audience. He was eating fire and spinning the batons, but also had a sense of humor. He was telling people in the front "come on, work with me here". We did also have unlimited MaiTais and other drinks and it was pretty good overall. We sat across from a black family and it looked like Dad was a pro football player, with a 1/2 pound gold watch, gold earring and bracelet and necklace, and all the latest electronic toys for all the family, etc.

Luau

OK, who is the football player?

The fire dancer was the best.

Day 19

Mellow day today.
Condo views
Jill got an awesome pineapple at a fruit stand yesterday and it was sweet and fresh for breakfast. Went to the pool but a large family was kind of monopolizing the place so we left after 1-2 hours.
Great Pineapples
Drove to Puka Dog for lunch. We had seen Anthony Bourdain go to the one on Oahu so we figured what the hell. Their concept is large hot dogs inserted into a hole in a bun that is filled with one of their secret tropical theme sauces. Pretty good but $23 for 3 dogs and 2 drinks is a wee bit excessive. Jill says next time she wants a dog she'll get the Costco $1.50 for a big dog and a large drink special!
Puka Dogs!
Stopped in Kuhio, the girls window shopped while Dave closed his eyes. Then back to Spouting Horn for photos this time, and we checked out the tiny hidden beach a couple hundred yards from the condo. Then back to the pool, this time being lorded over by the ADD victim who has 2 mommies. You'd figure with 2 mommies he'd get more attention, but I can see why they ignore him, he's a 7 year old moron.
Spouting Horn
Jill's getting dinner stuff ready; we'll cook some steaks after watching the turtles come back to the cove next door at 6:30, we hope.

...

The steaks were really good again. I spoke with an owner at the grill who was telling me about all the work they've done at whaler's Cove in the last year. Paint, shrubs, pool deck, etc. We went down to the public access area next to the condo and watched a couple of turtles come in. We couldn't really see their bodies because of the light but one had a head about as big as Jill's fist

Day 20

Today's activity was a trip to Fern Grotto. We arrived at the boat dock on the Waimea River over an hour too early so just hung out in the shade. Got on the barge boat for the 11:30 cruise. It was another hokey event. Actually the commentary going upriver was interesting. After a 2.5 mile ride along deserted riverbanks (used in many movies) we landed at Fern Grotto. The grotto was less impressive than it used to be. It lost a lot of ferns in some of the hurricanes and then when a sugar company ceased operations, a leaky holding pond was shut, closing off some water supply. We found this out later. It was hot as hell at the grotto and unfortunately Not Worth The Trip.
Trip to Fern Grotto

Eh
The ride back was the hokey part, with the tired-looking band and dancer doing the tour bus hula stuff. Hawaii needs to move on past the old hula image; it's getting old.
The tourist luau thing looks tired

Stopped at an L&L for a locals' fast food lunch. Sort of half burger stand and Chinese fast food. Jill wasn't thrilled with their cleanliness but Kristen and I liked their cheap burgers and fries, $17.

Then followed the Waimea River into the central area of the island, one of the few roads on which you can do so. Saw Opaeka'a Falls from a nice vantage point.
Wailua River and Opaeka'a Falls
Costco gas and checked out a ukulele (!) that I'm probably going to buy. Then back for a couple of hours poolside, where a gecko crawled up in Jill's armpit, causing a scream.

Tried dinner at Tropical Burger but got bad vibes and didn't like the drink or appetizer so headed back to Keoki's for bar food - salad, fish taco, etc. plus drinks. $56.
Keoki's, our favorite place on Kauai

Day 21

Woke up, got nicely showered and dressed, and took our Christmas Card photo. Hung around a while, then left before noon to buy my Uke and to do a major highlight - helicopter!
Merry Christmas 2008
Checked out the pallet of Ukes at Costco and, amazingly, the quality was quite nice and it was a steal at $99. It's a Washburn Lyon LU-5 with Koa laminate and abalone inlay. It looks really sharp. Even Kristen says it sounds better than the old ($20) one. Great souvenir.

Then it was on to Jack Harter Helicopters. We all got weighed (Jill saw the secret weight list and was shocked, SHOCKED I tell you, at her and Kristen's weights.) Then after a pre-flight FAA briefing it was a van ride to the airport with the other family that was joining us. It was all very regimented, as it should be.
Takeoff!
As soon as I saw I was first in line i KNEW I had the middle seat in the rear, exactly what I didn't want. But Kristen was sitting next to me, so it ended up being fine, and I was able to take 165 pictures so I guess I had a good view! Jill sat up front next to the pilot, which was amazing.

I'll let the pictures tell the story, mostly. But we circled the whole island and got a narrated tour for about 65 minutes. We covered all the major areas, most of which you can only see from a chopper or maybe from a backpacking trip. Waimea canyon was the pilot's cue to synch the music for a high point, just as we cleared a cliff overlooking the canyon, by about 3 feet.

These photos are just the highlights. Amazingly, the other family took about 3 photos. I guess they're jaded.

Amazing Views

Your AOL money at work.

That's Steve Case's property. Used in Jurassic Park.

The chopper, note the pilot giving the Hawaiian Thumbs Up

Lots of waterfalls but they would have been more spectacular if we had had more rain. Still good, though. My favorite was the Na Pali coast, with its deserted valleys and beaches, and no roads.

I asked some questions over the mic but the other passengers were for the most part silent, which was a little disappointing. We did have some rain but the rotor blades cleared it immediately and it had no impact. We went from sun to rain and back again several times. That's Kauai for you.

Overall it was very expensive but worth it for about $750. Jill got us a free DVD with a coupon, whoopee! Not of our flight though, a generic Jack Harter one.

Then it was off to the Marriott for a late lunch at Duke's - named after the famous beach boy surfer legend at Waikiki. It was nice but run by the same group as Keoki's and really almost the same thing, except on the Marriott's beach. Jill and I had Caesar salads with fish (me) and chicken (Jill).
Duke's
Back home for a late swim in the pool, followed by a late dinner at Roy's. Roy is a "Celebrity Chef" and even though he's probably on vacation somewhere in the south of France, the food was very good. Kristen even had a multi course kid's meal. Dave had a fish dish (very good but now forgotten), Jill had short ribs.

And before going to Roy's we finally got to see the sea turtles in the cove next to the condo... the photo will give an idea how big they are - 2-3' across!

Turtles at the condo!

Day 22

The trip sadly draws to a close. We had a GREAT time and I think this is the first vacation where Jill wasn't ready to come home before the end of the trip.
Bye bye Kauai
The airport was a problem. First, they wouldn't check our bags thru to Newark so we had to check (and reclaim them) in Honolulu. Then, a 45 minute delay for a 35 minute flight from Kauai to Honolulu. Then, with the limo waiting, we waited in vain for bag #3 at baggage claim. They lost it!

First we met (and tipped) our driver and checked out the mega stretch limo. It's seen a few weddings but it's big, has cool drinks, the price is right, and Kristen loved the multi colored light show in the ceiling.
Limo!
Then it was off to Pearl Harbor, where we looked at the extensive exhibits and viewed the Arizona Memorial in the distance but couldn't get tickets (they we all gone by then.) Back to the airport to see if the bag has come in on the next flight (it hadn't). Big Waste O Time.
Pearl Harbor
Then up to the tip of the North Shore for a surprise turtle sighting on the beach. They've gotta weigh around 100 pounds. A highlight, but don't tell the driver we saw them next to our condo last night!
More turtles!

Unfortunately we were now way behind schedule due to airline and baggage delays. So we had to abort the North Shore circle (would have been a highlight for us) and head back down to Waikiki. I had told the driver we wanted a brief drive-by, and a photo of Diamond Head; I think he assumed we wanted to hang out there (Gary is Vietnamese). Quel disastre! Waikiki looks like Times Square; there's an ocean over there somewhere but glimpses are few and far between. I would never recommend that anyone stay there. After sitting in interminable traffic, we had Gary take us to Ono, a restaurant serving real Hawaiian food primarily to locals. Since it was 3pm by now, we got in easily (only 9 tables) and were waited on by an old Japanese-Hawaiian woman who told us what to order. I think she's the owner. We had 2 assortments; I liked the salmon tomitomi and the pork wrapped in taro leaves was ok. Jill and Kristen liked the kalua pig; Kristen thought the chicken noodle stew was good. It was a mixed bag, Dave liked it, Kristen was ok with it, Jill disliked it. $40.
South Shore Oahu

Then up to Diamond head for a few photos, and a trip back thru Waikiki traffic to Mariana's tiki bar, in an industrial area near the airport. We had seen Anthony Bourdain go there for stiff tiki drinks. Stiff they were; we had a strong MaiTai each. Gary thought we were insane for going to such a place after the splendors of Waikiki! We made it to the airport at 6:04 for our 7:55 flight.
Mariana's was fun
We slept well on the way back, due to exhaustion, I think. I made it until Nebraska, Jill till Illinois. A pickup from Bob and Joyce, no disasters at home, and we are now safe and sound with nothing but great memories!
So Over The Top