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Day 13

Picture
Last night’s dinner was very good. It turns out the place is run by some kind of British ex-pat family, and most of the guests are British.

We took the half pension deal when we checked in. We had a carrot-potato-leek soup which was fresh, if under seasoned. Then Jill had some kind of French Toast with melted cheese which sent her cholesterol soaring, while I had Vol-au-Vent – both very good. The main course was lamb rolled up in a pastry shell, very well presented and tasty. We had to slow our waitress down – everyone’s courses were served very fast – not the French style. Jill had a flan type thing and I had a very large slice of pear tart. Also, we had an expensive bottle of Merlot (190F = $38), which was very good.

Then we played a game of 8-ball on the world’s smallest (5-6 foot) and most expensive ($2) table. Dave won.

Woke up around 5 a.m. or so and Mont Blanc was bathed in a pink glow – the sun was rising somewhere and it was reflecting off the clouds. Very eerie.

Woke up around 8:30 to a steady rain. Went downstairs, had breakfast, and read the weather report – clearing tonight and more rain tomorrow. So, we cleared out of town as planned.

Quel dommage!

Drove all the way up to Burgundy in a teeming downpour. Had our alpine picnic lunch, bought last night, in the car at a highway rest area. Bummer!

Stopped briefly to walk around Brancion in the rain. It is a small medieval village. It really opened up once we got out of the car, and we retreated pretty quickly. I was willing to try the small hotel there, but Jill wasn’t.

Drove through several small Burgundian towns looking for a hotel. Tried 2 but didn’t like them, one nice one was full, and one 4-star was too expensive.

Oh yeah, we also stopped and checked out an 11th century church in ???. The bell tower was listing about 5 degrees. The bell rope hung right down to the altar. Only one stained glass window. Pure Romanesque.

Finally found the town of Mersault, which has 4 hotels. You’ve drunk their wine, now check out their town. It’s very nice, and we’re staying in the most expensive place at 260F ($55). Another family-run deal. No restaurant, so we’ll be going to one of the other hotels.

Took a walk around town, then stopped in a bar (in hotel #3) for 2 beers. When we walked in there were 3 older locals, when we walked out there were 10 young locals (16-21) playing pinball and video while the church bells chimed and the vineyards ripened 50 yards away. The dichotomy of modern France illustrated!

Jill’s playing Solitaire (first time we’ve broken out he cards) the church bells are ringing 7 p.m. and we’re bother ready for dinner and some Mersault Premier Cru wine.

P.S. Saw a guy in a Duke shirt crossing a 13th c. bridge the other day, so I said “Go Duke” as I passed. He said “Pardon?”, and I pointed to his shirt, but I’m not sure he got it. I thought he was American. Lots of non-American people with American garb on – the Yankees are especially popular. Saw a hat from the Middletown Police Dept o sale in a mom & pop grocery outside Glanum the other day!

P.S. The rain stopped around 5 and it’s partly cloudy. Cross the fingers…

Saw a guy making a mattress in a shop as we passed by. Also several vintners with barrels stacked up.

Later…

Our meal last night was very good. Went to another of the hotels in town. Jill had Jambon Persille for entrée (sort of like a terrine), Boeuf Bourguignon, and her best crème brulée yet. We also had an amuse bouche of some sort of turnip / potato thing that was very good. I had a ham/chicken Croquette, followed by a fishy piece of fish, very good pork medallions, cheese (the stinkier the better) and chocolate mousse slices that were like heaven. Also we had the local Mersault wine which was good but expensive ($40), and a white, which we probably should not have ordered for our only night in Burgundy. The only minus was very slow service – 2 ½ hours!

 

Day 14 >>>


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