Day 8
Ahhhh... France.
A night of total silence in the hotel… we were the only guests. Followed by eggs for breakfast. We said our goodbyes to Nuria with kisses after settling our bill. Grand total about $180 for one night in the “good good” restaurant ($60) and 6 nights in the hotel restaurant with wine and water! Plus a night free in the hotel!. I asked, and it turns out we were indeed their first Americans. Gave a 10,000 PTA tip to Magda and Enrique – our 2 waiters who were so nice. About $50.
The summary is that the people of Catalonia were great, the food great, but the area needs some improvement to the tourist infrastructure. Plus it seems like we were centrally located but equally inconvenient to everywhere.
Back up the Pyrenees, through the Tunnel De Cadi, fill up with gas at the top of the Pyrenees and coasted down into France.
We hoped we would find France as green and tourist-friendly as we remembered. But it was eerie to see the difference just as we passed the now-abandoned border crossing station. France was different entirely.
Every building was not shuttered. Roads went through towns instead of skirting them. Stores were open midday!
The summary is that the people of Catalonia were great, the food great, but the area needs some improvement to the tourist infrastructure. Plus it seems like we were centrally located but equally inconvenient to everywhere.
Back up the Pyrenees, through the Tunnel De Cadi, fill up with gas at the top of the Pyrenees and coasted down into France.
We hoped we would find France as green and tourist-friendly as we remembered. But it was eerie to see the difference just as we passed the now-abandoned border crossing station. France was different entirely.
Every building was not shuttered. Roads went through towns instead of skirting them. Stores were open midday!
We stopped in Ax-les-Thermes, bought ingredients for a picnic and ate it on a bench next to the river. Baguette, ham, cheese, etc. (Ed. Note: I asked Kristen why she was giving her mom such a hard time about everything, she told me “because it’s fun”!)
Then we drove (coasted) down the French side of the Pyrenees, passing spectacular scenery at every turn (few pull-outs, though). Unlike Spain, many signs indicating castles, churches, etc. to view as you pass by.
Got into Quillan about 3:00 and soon found the town of Belvianes where our chateau is located. We couldn’t find the chateau, though, so I parked at the church and got out to walk around. Found a boy who directed me to it.
The front door is in a village courtyard, and is basically a very large cement wall, with a few shuttered windows and a large double barn door. I told a couple sitting in chairs across the courtyard that I was renting and asked for Mme. Bournet. I was shown an intercom which I pressed and Mme. Bournet told me the place would be ready in 20 minutes.
Instead of waiting around, we went to the supermarché, where we screwed up the process by not weighing our veggies and causing the checkout girl to have to go back to weigh them. Oops, how embarrassing… but the people on the checkout line seemed more amused than pissed off.
Back to the chateau, where we were given the 1 ½ hour tour by none other than the owner himself, Christian Ravier, a doctor from Marseille. He and his wife love to travel, and she loves to shop at top boutiques around the world, judging by the various stuff around the house from Harrods, Maxims of Paris, etc. They also collected towels and ashtrays from Las Vegas, Marakesh, the Carribbean, etc.
Then we drove (coasted) down the French side of the Pyrenees, passing spectacular scenery at every turn (few pull-outs, though). Unlike Spain, many signs indicating castles, churches, etc. to view as you pass by.
Got into Quillan about 3:00 and soon found the town of Belvianes where our chateau is located. We couldn’t find the chateau, though, so I parked at the church and got out to walk around. Found a boy who directed me to it.
The front door is in a village courtyard, and is basically a very large cement wall, with a few shuttered windows and a large double barn door. I told a couple sitting in chairs across the courtyard that I was renting and asked for Mme. Bournet. I was shown an intercom which I pressed and Mme. Bournet told me the place would be ready in 20 minutes.
Instead of waiting around, we went to the supermarché, where we screwed up the process by not weighing our veggies and causing the checkout girl to have to go back to weigh them. Oops, how embarrassing… but the people on the checkout line seemed more amused than pissed off.
Back to the chateau, where we were given the 1 ½ hour tour by none other than the owner himself, Christian Ravier, a doctor from Marseille. He and his wife love to travel, and she loves to shop at top boutiques around the world, judging by the various stuff around the house from Harrods, Maxims of Paris, etc. They also collected towels and ashtrays from Las Vegas, Marakesh, the Carribbean, etc.
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The house is huge – 3 main rooms downstairs, each about 30’x30’ with an 18’ ceiling. Nicely furnished with period antiques, artwork, painted frescoes, silk rugs, etc. Gourmet kitchen ca. 1981 with huge BBQ fireplace. Seven bedrooms upstairs; 2 have new marble baths with every amenity. There’s also a third floor and attic we have no access to. All filled with antiques and collectibles, like someone lives here.
Outside a pool at a cool 70 degrees and a large yard that’s overgrown and in need of renovation. Nice terrace. Nice views. I have to close all the downstairs shutters nightly. All for the price of a house at the Jersey Shore – 14,000 F, about $2000. The exchange rate is great, everything is so cheap! After our hosts left we had a drink by the pool, a dip, and Jill cooked a vegetable tian with the veggies left from Spain, plus some French fries and bread. And so to bed. Day 9 >>> |