siebenheller.com
  • What's New?
  • Travel Photos
    • 2011-2015 >
      • 2014 Rome >
        • 2014 Rome Day 2
        • 2014 Rome Day 3
        • 2014 Rome Day 4
        • 2014 Rome Day 5
        • 2014 Rome Day 6
        • 2014 Rome Day 7
        • 2014 Rome Day 8
      • 2012 Paris >
        • 2012 Paris Day 2
        • 2012 Paris Day 3
        • 2012 Paris Day 4
        • 2012 Paris Day 5
      • 2011 Southeast
    • 2005-2010 >
      • 2010 Utah >
        • 2010 Utah Day 2 >
          • 2010 Utah Day 9
          • 2010 Utah Day 10
          • 2010 Utah Day 11
          • 2010 Utah Day 12
          • 2010 Utah Day 13
          • 2010 Utah Day 14
          • 2010 Utah Day 15
          • 2010 Utah Day 16
          • 2010 Utah Day 17
        • 2010 Utah Day 3
        • 2010 Utah Day 4
        • 2010 Utah Day 5
        • 2010 Utah Day 6
        • 2010 Utah Day 7
        • 2010 Utah Day 8
      • 2010 Florida >
        • 2010 Orlando
      • 2009 London >
        • 2009 London Day 2
        • 2009 London Day 3
        • 2009 London Day 4
        • 2009 London Day 5
        • 2009 London Day 6
      • 2008 Hawaii >
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 2 >
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 12
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 13
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 14
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 15
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 16
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 17
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 18
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 19
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 20
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 21
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 22
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 3
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 4
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 5
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 6
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 7
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 8
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 9
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 10
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 11
      • 2008 Spring Training
      • 2007 Ireland >
        • 2007 Ireland Day 2 >
          • 2007 Ireland Day 9
          • 2007 Ireland Day 10
          • 2007 Ireland Day 11
          • 2007 Ireland Day 12
          • 2007 Ireland Day 13
          • 2007 Ireland Day 14
          • 2007 Ireland Day 15
          • 2007 Ireland Day 16
          • 2008 Ireland Day 17
        • 2007 Ireland Day 3
        • 2007 Ireland Day 4
        • 2007 Ireland Day 5
        • 2007 Ireland Day 6
        • 2007 Ireland Day 7
        • 2007 Ireland Day 8
      • 2007 Spring Training
      • 2006 Switzerland >
        • 2006 Switzerland 2 >
          • 2006 Switzerland 8 >
            • 2006 Switzerland 13
            • 2006 Switzerland 14
          • 2006 Switzerland 9
          • 2006 Switzerland 10
          • 2006 Switzerland 11
          • 2006 Switzerland 12
        • 2006 Switzerland 3
        • 2006 Switzerland 4
        • 2006 Switzerland 5
        • 2006 Switzerland 6
        • 2006 Switzerland 7
      • 2006 Spring Training
      • 2005 Newport
    • 2000-2004 >
      • 2004 Disney
      • 2004 Florida
      • 2003 Provence >
        • 2003 Provence Day 2
        • 2003 Provence Day 3
        • 2003 Provence Day 4
        • 2003 Provence Day 5
        • 2003 Provence Day 6
        • 2003 Provence Day 7
        • 2003 Provence Day 8
        • 2003 Provence Day 9
        • 2003 Provence Day 10
      • 2002 Naples, FL
      • 2002 France >
        • 2002 France Day 2 >
          • 2002 France Day 11
          • 2002 France Day 12
          • 2002 France Day 13
          • 2002 France Day 14
          • 2002 France Day 15
          • 2002 France Day 16
          • What's New?
          • 2002 France Day 17
          • 2002 France Day 18
          • 2002 France Day 19
          • 2002 France Day 20
        • 2002 France Day 3
        • 2002 France Day 4
        • 2002 France Day 5
        • 2002 France Day 6
        • 2002 France Day 7
        • 2002 France Day 8
        • 2002 France Day 9
        • 2002 France Day 10
      • 2002 Disney
      • 2001 Delaware
      • 2001 Spring Training
      • 2001 Lisbon
      • 2000 Greenbrier
      • 2000 Spain / France >
        • 2000 Spain France Day 2 >
          • 2000 Spain France Day 7 >
            • 2000 Spain France Day 12
            • 2000 Spain France Day 13
            • 2000 Spain France Day 14
            • 2000 Spain France Day 15
            • 2000 Spain France Day 16
          • 2000 Spain France Day 8
          • 2000 Spain France Day 9
          • 2000 Spain France Day 10
          • 2000 Spain France Day 11
        • 2000 Spain France Day 3
        • 2000 Spain France Day 4
        • 2000 Spain France Day 5
        • 2000 Spain France Day 6
      • 2000 St. Barth's
      • 2000 Amsterdam
    • 1996-1999 >
      • 1999 Rhinebeck
      • 1999 Baltimore
      • 1999 Jersey Shore
      • 1999 St. John
      • 1998 France
      • 1997 Jersey Shore
      • 1997 London
      • 1997 Siesta Key
      • 1996 Quebec
      • 1996 Arizona
      • 1996 Maryland
      • 1996 Paris
    • 1995 >
      • 1995 Boston
      • 1995 New Orleans
      • 1995 Siesta Key
      • 1995 Monticello
    • 1990-1994 >
      • 1994 France >
        • 1994 France Day 2 >
          • 1994 France Day 7 >
            • 1994 France Day 12
            • 1994 France Day 13
            • 1994 France Day 14
            • 1994 France Day 15
            • 1994 France Day 16
          • 1994 France Day 8
          • 1994 France Day 9
          • 1994 France Day 10
          • 1994 France Day 11
        • 1994 France Day 3
        • 1994 France Day 4
        • 1994 France Day 5
        • 1994 France Day 6
      • 1993 California
      • 1992 Gettysburg
      • 1992 Annamaria Island
      • 1991 St. John
      • 1990 Germany Austria Switzerland >
        • 1990 Germany Day 2 >
          • 1990 Germany Day 8 >
            • 1990 Germany Day 15
            • 1990 Germany Day 16
            • 1990 Germany Day 17
            • 1990 Germany Day 18
            • 1990 Germany Day 19
            • 1990 Germany Day 20
            • 1990 Germany Day 21
          • 1990 Germany Day 9
          • 1990 Germany Day 10
          • 1990 Germany Day 11
          • 1990 Germany Day 12
          • 1990 Germany Day 13
          • 1990 Germany Day 14
        • 1990 Germany Day 3
        • 1990 Germany Day 4
        • 1990 Germany Day 5
        • 1990 Germany Day 6
        • 1990 Germany Day 7
      • 1990 California
    • 1985-1989 >
      • 1989 UK >
        • 1989 UK Day 2 >
          • 1989 UK Day 8 >
            • 1989 UK Day 14
            • 1989 UK Day 15
            • 1989 UK Day 16
            • 1989 UK Day 17
            • 1989 UK Day 18
            • 1989 UK Day 19
            • 1989 UK Day 20
          • 1989 UK Day 9
          • 1989 UK Day 10
          • 1989 UK Day 11
          • 1989 UK Day 12
          • 1989 UK Day 13
        • 1989 UK Day 3
        • 1989 UK Day 4
        • 1989 UK Day 5
        • 1989 UK Day 6
        • 1989 UK Day 7
      • 1988 Ocean City
      • 1987 Key West
      • 1987 Camping
      • 1987 California
      • 1986 Maine
      • 1986 Vermont
    • 1980-1984 >
      • 1984 St. Barth's
      • 1984 Long Beach Island
      • 1982 Western Road Trip
    • Lost Trips
  • Annuals
    • 2014
    • 2013
    • 2012
    • 2011
    • 2010
    • 2009
    • 2008
    • 2007
    • 2006
    • 2005
    • 2004
  • Concert Photos
    • Joe Bonamassa 2010
    • Alejandro Escovedo
    • Experience Jimi Hendrix
    • 2009 'Keb 'Mo
    • Los Lonely Boys
    • George Thorogood
    • Joe Bonamassa
    • Johnny Winter
    • Fountains of Wayne >
      • Costello & The Police
      • Eric Clapton
      • Hammer of the Gods
      • Bruce Sprigsteen
      • Dickey Betts
      • Brian Setzer
      • John Fogerty
      • Ladysmith Black Mombazo
  • Dave's Stuff
    • Yuppie Dix
    • The End
    • Favorite Quotes
  • Search
  • Contact

Day 8

Picture
Loubressac. One of the 'Plus Beau Villages de France'.
Got up a little earlier today and out around 10:30 after a light breakfast.

 Decided at the last minute to make today’s destination the Parc Animalier de Gramat – an outdoor zoo.

 First, we stopped by lovely Loubressac, an old village on the edge of the causse overlooking the Chateau de Castelnau and the Dordogne valley.



Picture
 Took a bunch of photos, black & white and color, and enjoyed the town and view on a perfect day.

Drove by the hotel where we stayed 4 years ago – funny, but Kristen didn’t remember it. Oh yeah, she was 11 months old.


Picture
Bought bread and stopped at a picnic are along the road to Gramat for lunch a little before 12.

Kristen and Dave walked along a dirt track to check out some cows we heard bellowing in the distance. All walking in a row, maybe back to an unseen barn.

 Picked a couple more blackberries and had lunch of bread, cheese, egg, ham, etc.

 Were joined at the rest area by 2 French couples, each of whom wished us “Bon Appetit”. One had wine, china, and a multicourse meal going on. Made us look kind of pathetic!



Picture
Christmas Card 2002
Then on to the zoo, where we saw lots of animals, many of whom Kristen fed popcorn to. It got kind of hot walking around after 2 hours or so. Kristen’s favorite animal was a small deer she petted.

Oh, yeah, stopped at a market in Gramat that was in the process of closing, but didn’t buy anything.

Back home via Autoire, another charming village. Took a couple of photos, including one of Kristen on the village fountain that should be good. (Ed. Note: it made it into the Christmas Card.)



Picture
Down into the valley, where we drove by Chateau Castelnau and took some photos. The parking lot we had to ourselves last time was now packed and even had a pay attendant in a booth. How gauche. We didn’t go in.

Then a stop at a place where some potters were making ceramics, and more interestingly, glassblowers were at work blowing glass into really nice (i.e. expensive) pieces. It was hot.

Then home via the back way through Glanes again. We drained and cleaned the pool, and Kristen’s sloshing around now as we fill it up.



Picture
Who turned out the lights?
Dinner tonight at Au Dejuner de Sousseyrac. Supposedly the best in the area, and it has a Michelin Bib Gourmand.(Good value and good food, but not yet deserving of a star.) Called yesterday and tried to make a reservation, but the problem I have, especially on the phone, is that when the conversation takes an unexpected turn, I don’t understand, and I choke.

 After getting off the phone I think she said that reservations were not necessary, and that they opened at 7:30, or, maybe, Stupid Americans showing up before 7:30 will be shot. Either, or. We’ll see.

Well, we took a beautiful drive to Sousseyrac, via Gagnac, Glanes, Estal, and Teyssieu, arriving at about 7:40. The drive was spectacular, with rolling green hillsides, farms, cows, etc. Winding, forested roads.

 We walked into the restaurant and up the stairs. The chef, large and bearded, came out of the kitchen and we asked for a table for 3. He eyed us up and said, after looking in the dining room “A table for 4, yes, but I can’t do a table for 3”. He offered to seat us, alone, in a side breakfast room. Much conversation back and forth between him and the server, probably his wife. He told me, it is necessary to telephone ahead for a reservation.


But monsieur, I did telephone, yesterday morning. The woman told me to arrive at 7:30. (This whole conversation is going on in French, mind you, stretching my skills to the limit.)

 They looked in the book. Sure enough, there was a reservation, without a name.

 Apologies all around. They swapped one upholstered chair for an upholstered one for Kristen.

It was kind of hushed and intimidating. Only about 20-25 seats, ½ full. All French. No menu enfant for Kristen. We ordered an 18€ plate of duck for her and told her it was chicken.

 Peter Mayle described the atmosphere perfectly in “Encore Provence”, that I read when we got back to the house… “more than a hint of reverence in the air. This is characteristic of celebrated restaurants, that can sometimes be overwhelming, causing voices to be muted and – for me at least – threatening to turn the meal into some kind of minor religious experience.” Also “the deadening effect that excellence often has on customers, who treat each exquisitely arranged plate like a shrine, forgetting that they came to have a good time…”

 It was intimidating at first, but after a glass of wine we relaxed. Kristen was very well behaved. The major faux pas of the evening was Jill’s – she accidentally turned out the dining room lights when trying to turn on the bathroom light, lending new meaning to the question “Who turned out the lights?”

Overall, Jill liked Belle Rive better. I thought the presentation and food were a cut above, but only slightly. A lot depends on what you order. Dave – lobster appetizer, fish entrée, feuiletté with figs. Jill – duck salad with terrine, preserved breast and foie gras, steak (oversauced per Jill) and crème bruléé that was prepared in advance – a major faux pas.

 Topped with a $15 bottle of Rhone and the total was about 90€ - same as the other places. But not as relaxing.

Day 9 >>>

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.
  • What's New?
  • Travel Photos
    • 2011-2015 >
      • 2014 Rome >
        • 2014 Rome Day 2
        • 2014 Rome Day 3
        • 2014 Rome Day 4
        • 2014 Rome Day 5
        • 2014 Rome Day 6
        • 2014 Rome Day 7
        • 2014 Rome Day 8
      • 2012 Paris >
        • 2012 Paris Day 2
        • 2012 Paris Day 3
        • 2012 Paris Day 4
        • 2012 Paris Day 5
      • 2011 Southeast
    • 2005-2010 >
      • 2010 Utah >
        • 2010 Utah Day 2 >
          • 2010 Utah Day 9
          • 2010 Utah Day 10
          • 2010 Utah Day 11
          • 2010 Utah Day 12
          • 2010 Utah Day 13
          • 2010 Utah Day 14
          • 2010 Utah Day 15
          • 2010 Utah Day 16
          • 2010 Utah Day 17
        • 2010 Utah Day 3
        • 2010 Utah Day 4
        • 2010 Utah Day 5
        • 2010 Utah Day 6
        • 2010 Utah Day 7
        • 2010 Utah Day 8
      • 2010 Florida >
        • 2010 Orlando
      • 2009 London >
        • 2009 London Day 2
        • 2009 London Day 3
        • 2009 London Day 4
        • 2009 London Day 5
        • 2009 London Day 6
      • 2008 Hawaii >
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 2 >
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 12
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 13
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 14
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 15
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 16
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 17
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 18
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 19
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 20
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 21
          • 2008 Hawaii Day 22
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 3
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 4
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 5
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 6
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 7
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 8
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 9
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 10
        • 2008 Hawaii Day 11
      • 2008 Spring Training
      • 2007 Ireland >
        • 2007 Ireland Day 2 >
          • 2007 Ireland Day 9
          • 2007 Ireland Day 10
          • 2007 Ireland Day 11
          • 2007 Ireland Day 12
          • 2007 Ireland Day 13
          • 2007 Ireland Day 14
          • 2007 Ireland Day 15
          • 2007 Ireland Day 16
          • 2008 Ireland Day 17
        • 2007 Ireland Day 3
        • 2007 Ireland Day 4
        • 2007 Ireland Day 5
        • 2007 Ireland Day 6
        • 2007 Ireland Day 7
        • 2007 Ireland Day 8
      • 2007 Spring Training
      • 2006 Switzerland >
        • 2006 Switzerland 2 >
          • 2006 Switzerland 8 >
            • 2006 Switzerland 13
            • 2006 Switzerland 14
          • 2006 Switzerland 9
          • 2006 Switzerland 10
          • 2006 Switzerland 11
          • 2006 Switzerland 12
        • 2006 Switzerland 3
        • 2006 Switzerland 4
        • 2006 Switzerland 5
        • 2006 Switzerland 6
        • 2006 Switzerland 7
      • 2006 Spring Training
      • 2005 Newport
    • 2000-2004 >
      • 2004 Disney
      • 2004 Florida
      • 2003 Provence >
        • 2003 Provence Day 2
        • 2003 Provence Day 3
        • 2003 Provence Day 4
        • 2003 Provence Day 5
        • 2003 Provence Day 6
        • 2003 Provence Day 7
        • 2003 Provence Day 8
        • 2003 Provence Day 9
        • 2003 Provence Day 10
      • 2002 Naples, FL
      • 2002 France >
        • 2002 France Day 2 >
          • 2002 France Day 11
          • 2002 France Day 12
          • 2002 France Day 13
          • 2002 France Day 14
          • 2002 France Day 15
          • 2002 France Day 16
          • What's New?
          • 2002 France Day 17
          • 2002 France Day 18
          • 2002 France Day 19
          • 2002 France Day 20
        • 2002 France Day 3
        • 2002 France Day 4
        • 2002 France Day 5
        • 2002 France Day 6
        • 2002 France Day 7
        • 2002 France Day 8
        • 2002 France Day 9
        • 2002 France Day 10
      • 2002 Disney
      • 2001 Delaware
      • 2001 Spring Training
      • 2001 Lisbon
      • 2000 Greenbrier
      • 2000 Spain / France >
        • 2000 Spain France Day 2 >
          • 2000 Spain France Day 7 >
            • 2000 Spain France Day 12
            • 2000 Spain France Day 13
            • 2000 Spain France Day 14
            • 2000 Spain France Day 15
            • 2000 Spain France Day 16
          • 2000 Spain France Day 8
          • 2000 Spain France Day 9
          • 2000 Spain France Day 10
          • 2000 Spain France Day 11
        • 2000 Spain France Day 3
        • 2000 Spain France Day 4
        • 2000 Spain France Day 5
        • 2000 Spain France Day 6
      • 2000 St. Barth's
      • 2000 Amsterdam
    • 1996-1999 >
      • 1999 Rhinebeck
      • 1999 Baltimore
      • 1999 Jersey Shore
      • 1999 St. John
      • 1998 France
      • 1997 Jersey Shore
      • 1997 London
      • 1997 Siesta Key
      • 1996 Quebec
      • 1996 Arizona
      • 1996 Maryland
      • 1996 Paris
    • 1995 >
      • 1995 Boston
      • 1995 New Orleans
      • 1995 Siesta Key
      • 1995 Monticello
    • 1990-1994 >
      • 1994 France >
        • 1994 France Day 2 >
          • 1994 France Day 7 >
            • 1994 France Day 12
            • 1994 France Day 13
            • 1994 France Day 14
            • 1994 France Day 15
            • 1994 France Day 16
          • 1994 France Day 8
          • 1994 France Day 9
          • 1994 France Day 10
          • 1994 France Day 11
        • 1994 France Day 3
        • 1994 France Day 4
        • 1994 France Day 5
        • 1994 France Day 6
      • 1993 California
      • 1992 Gettysburg
      • 1992 Annamaria Island
      • 1991 St. John
      • 1990 Germany Austria Switzerland >
        • 1990 Germany Day 2 >
          • 1990 Germany Day 8 >
            • 1990 Germany Day 15
            • 1990 Germany Day 16
            • 1990 Germany Day 17
            • 1990 Germany Day 18
            • 1990 Germany Day 19
            • 1990 Germany Day 20
            • 1990 Germany Day 21
          • 1990 Germany Day 9
          • 1990 Germany Day 10
          • 1990 Germany Day 11
          • 1990 Germany Day 12
          • 1990 Germany Day 13
          • 1990 Germany Day 14
        • 1990 Germany Day 3
        • 1990 Germany Day 4
        • 1990 Germany Day 5
        • 1990 Germany Day 6
        • 1990 Germany Day 7
      • 1990 California
    • 1985-1989 >
      • 1989 UK >
        • 1989 UK Day 2 >
          • 1989 UK Day 8 >
            • 1989 UK Day 14
            • 1989 UK Day 15
            • 1989 UK Day 16
            • 1989 UK Day 17
            • 1989 UK Day 18
            • 1989 UK Day 19
            • 1989 UK Day 20
          • 1989 UK Day 9
          • 1989 UK Day 10
          • 1989 UK Day 11
          • 1989 UK Day 12
          • 1989 UK Day 13
        • 1989 UK Day 3
        • 1989 UK Day 4
        • 1989 UK Day 5
        • 1989 UK Day 6
        • 1989 UK Day 7
      • 1988 Ocean City
      • 1987 Key West
      • 1987 Camping
      • 1987 California
      • 1986 Maine
      • 1986 Vermont
    • 1980-1984 >
      • 1984 St. Barth's
      • 1984 Long Beach Island
      • 1982 Western Road Trip
    • Lost Trips
  • Annuals
    • 2014
    • 2013
    • 2012
    • 2011
    • 2010
    • 2009
    • 2008
    • 2007
    • 2006
    • 2005
    • 2004
  • Concert Photos
    • Joe Bonamassa 2010
    • Alejandro Escovedo
    • Experience Jimi Hendrix
    • 2009 'Keb 'Mo
    • Los Lonely Boys
    • George Thorogood
    • Joe Bonamassa
    • Johnny Winter
    • Fountains of Wayne >
      • Costello & The Police
      • Eric Clapton
      • Hammer of the Gods
      • Bruce Sprigsteen
      • Dickey Betts
      • Brian Setzer
      • John Fogerty
      • Ladysmith Black Mombazo
  • Dave's Stuff
    • Yuppie Dix
    • The End
    • Favorite Quotes
  • Search
  • Contact