Day 8
Loubressac. One of the 'Plus Beau Villages de France'.
Got up a little earlier today and out around 10:30 after a light breakfast.
Decided at the last minute to make today’s destination the Parc Animalier de Gramat – an outdoor zoo.
First, we stopped by lovely Loubressac, an old village on the edge of the causse overlooking the Chateau de Castelnau and the Dordogne valley.
Decided at the last minute to make today’s destination the Parc Animalier de Gramat – an outdoor zoo.
First, we stopped by lovely Loubressac, an old village on the edge of the causse overlooking the Chateau de Castelnau and the Dordogne valley.
Took a bunch of photos, black & white and color, and enjoyed the town and view on a perfect day.
Drove by the hotel where we stayed 4 years ago – funny, but Kristen didn’t remember it. Oh yeah, she was 11 months old.
Drove by the hotel where we stayed 4 years ago – funny, but Kristen didn’t remember it. Oh yeah, she was 11 months old.
Bought bread and stopped at a picnic are along the road to Gramat for lunch a little before 12.
Kristen and Dave walked along a dirt track to check out some cows we heard bellowing in the distance. All walking in a row, maybe back to an unseen barn.
Picked a couple more blackberries and had lunch of bread, cheese, egg, ham, etc.
Were joined at the rest area by 2 French couples, each of whom wished us “Bon Appetit”. One had wine, china, and a multicourse meal going on. Made us look kind of pathetic!
Kristen and Dave walked along a dirt track to check out some cows we heard bellowing in the distance. All walking in a row, maybe back to an unseen barn.
Picked a couple more blackberries and had lunch of bread, cheese, egg, ham, etc.
Were joined at the rest area by 2 French couples, each of whom wished us “Bon Appetit”. One had wine, china, and a multicourse meal going on. Made us look kind of pathetic!
Christmas Card 2002
Then on to the zoo, where we saw lots of animals, many of whom Kristen fed popcorn to. It got kind of hot walking around after 2 hours or so. Kristen’s favorite animal was a small deer she petted.
Oh, yeah, stopped at a market in Gramat that was in the process of closing, but didn’t buy anything.
Back home via Autoire, another charming village. Took a couple of photos, including one of Kristen on the village fountain that should be good. (Ed. Note: it made it into the Christmas Card.)
Oh, yeah, stopped at a market in Gramat that was in the process of closing, but didn’t buy anything.
Back home via Autoire, another charming village. Took a couple of photos, including one of Kristen on the village fountain that should be good. (Ed. Note: it made it into the Christmas Card.)
Down into the valley, where we drove by Chateau Castelnau and took some photos. The parking lot we had to ourselves last time was now packed and even had a pay attendant in a booth. How gauche. We didn’t go in.
Then a stop at a place where some potters were making ceramics, and more interestingly, glassblowers were at work blowing glass into really nice (i.e. expensive) pieces. It was hot.
Then home via the back way through Glanes again. We drained and cleaned the pool, and Kristen’s sloshing around now as we fill it up.
Then a stop at a place where some potters were making ceramics, and more interestingly, glassblowers were at work blowing glass into really nice (i.e. expensive) pieces. It was hot.
Then home via the back way through Glanes again. We drained and cleaned the pool, and Kristen’s sloshing around now as we fill it up.
Who turned out the lights?
Dinner tonight at Au Dejuner de Sousseyrac. Supposedly the best in the area, and it has a Michelin Bib Gourmand.(Good value and good food, but not yet deserving of a star.) Called yesterday and tried to make a reservation, but the problem I have, especially on the phone, is that when the conversation takes an unexpected turn, I don’t understand, and I choke.
After getting off the phone I think she said that reservations were not necessary, and that they opened at 7:30, or, maybe, Stupid Americans showing up before 7:30 will be shot. Either, or. We’ll see.
Well, we took a beautiful drive to Sousseyrac, via Gagnac, Glanes, Estal, and Teyssieu, arriving at about 7:40. The drive was spectacular, with rolling green hillsides, farms, cows, etc. Winding, forested roads.
We walked into the restaurant and up the stairs. The chef, large and bearded, came out of the kitchen and we asked for a table for 3. He eyed us up and said, after looking in the dining room “A table for 4, yes, but I can’t do a table for 3”. He offered to seat us, alone, in a side breakfast room. Much conversation back and forth between him and the server, probably his wife. He told me, it is necessary to telephone ahead for a reservation.
But monsieur, I did telephone, yesterday morning. The woman told me to arrive at 7:30. (This whole conversation is going on in French, mind you, stretching my skills to the limit.)
They looked in the book. Sure enough, there was a reservation, without a name.
Apologies all around. They swapped one upholstered chair for an upholstered one for Kristen.
It was kind of hushed and intimidating. Only about 20-25 seats, ½ full. All French. No menu enfant for Kristen. We ordered an 18€ plate of duck for her and told her it was chicken.
Peter Mayle described the atmosphere perfectly in “Encore Provence”, that I read when we got back to the house… “more than a hint of reverence in the air. This is characteristic of celebrated restaurants, that can sometimes be overwhelming, causing voices to be muted and – for me at least – threatening to turn the meal into some kind of minor religious experience.” Also “the deadening effect that excellence often has on customers, who treat each exquisitely arranged plate like a shrine, forgetting that they came to have a good time…”
It was intimidating at first, but after a glass of wine we relaxed. Kristen was very well behaved. The major faux pas of the evening was Jill’s – she accidentally turned out the dining room lights when trying to turn on the bathroom light, lending new meaning to the question “Who turned out the lights?”
Overall, Jill liked Belle Rive better. I thought the presentation and food were a cut above, but only slightly. A lot depends on what you order. Dave – lobster appetizer, fish entrée, feuiletté with figs. Jill – duck salad with terrine, preserved breast and foie gras, steak (oversauced per Jill) and crème bruléé that was prepared in advance – a major faux pas.
Topped with a $15 bottle of Rhone and the total was about 90€ - same as the other places. But not as relaxing.
Day 9 >>>
After getting off the phone I think she said that reservations were not necessary, and that they opened at 7:30, or, maybe, Stupid Americans showing up before 7:30 will be shot. Either, or. We’ll see.
Well, we took a beautiful drive to Sousseyrac, via Gagnac, Glanes, Estal, and Teyssieu, arriving at about 7:40. The drive was spectacular, with rolling green hillsides, farms, cows, etc. Winding, forested roads.
We walked into the restaurant and up the stairs. The chef, large and bearded, came out of the kitchen and we asked for a table for 3. He eyed us up and said, after looking in the dining room “A table for 4, yes, but I can’t do a table for 3”. He offered to seat us, alone, in a side breakfast room. Much conversation back and forth between him and the server, probably his wife. He told me, it is necessary to telephone ahead for a reservation.
But monsieur, I did telephone, yesterday morning. The woman told me to arrive at 7:30. (This whole conversation is going on in French, mind you, stretching my skills to the limit.)
They looked in the book. Sure enough, there was a reservation, without a name.
Apologies all around. They swapped one upholstered chair for an upholstered one for Kristen.
It was kind of hushed and intimidating. Only about 20-25 seats, ½ full. All French. No menu enfant for Kristen. We ordered an 18€ plate of duck for her and told her it was chicken.
Peter Mayle described the atmosphere perfectly in “Encore Provence”, that I read when we got back to the house… “more than a hint of reverence in the air. This is characteristic of celebrated restaurants, that can sometimes be overwhelming, causing voices to be muted and – for me at least – threatening to turn the meal into some kind of minor religious experience.” Also “the deadening effect that excellence often has on customers, who treat each exquisitely arranged plate like a shrine, forgetting that they came to have a good time…”
It was intimidating at first, but after a glass of wine we relaxed. Kristen was very well behaved. The major faux pas of the evening was Jill’s – she accidentally turned out the dining room lights when trying to turn on the bathroom light, lending new meaning to the question “Who turned out the lights?”
Overall, Jill liked Belle Rive better. I thought the presentation and food were a cut above, but only slightly. A lot depends on what you order. Dave – lobster appetizer, fish entrée, feuiletté with figs. Jill – duck salad with terrine, preserved breast and foie gras, steak (oversauced per Jill) and crème bruléé that was prepared in advance – a major faux pas.
Topped with a $15 bottle of Rhone and the total was about 90€ - same as the other places. But not as relaxing.
Day 9 >>>
