Day 7
Skipped breakfast again (still full from last night) and went to the office of the last major prehistoric cave–art site open to the public – Grotte de Font-de-Gaume. The idea is to make reservations for the following day’s tours – only 100 people are admitted to one, and 200 to the other, per day. Unfortunately, tomorrow was already booked, and we could not wait till Sunday. Hope it’s still open next time we’re here – the most spectacular – Lascaux – is closed to the public to maintain proper humidity levels.
(Ed. Note: We eventually made it back. See the 2002 France diary, Day 18)
Drove to the medieval city of Sarlat, which is very well preserved, if a bit touristy. Walked around, took a lot of photos, found a replacement Michelin guide, and bought lunch of cheese, ½ bottle of wine, bread and chips. Have ham from yesterday too.
(Ed. Note: We eventually made it back. See the 2002 France diary, Day 18)
Drove to the medieval city of Sarlat, which is very well preserved, if a bit touristy. Walked around, took a lot of photos, found a replacement Michelin guide, and bought lunch of cheese, ½ bottle of wine, bread and chips. Have ham from yesterday too.
I had the brilliant idea of hiking (20 minutes) to the ruined Chateau de Commarque with our picnic. The chateau has a view of its neighbor, Chateau de Laussel.
The hike was ok, except we had to cross 2 creeks – one on a broken bridge and the other on 2 logs – and Jill almost panicked and refused to budge for a while. But she persevered.
It was fun walking around the ruins. Spiral stairs, huge walls, caves, etc. The pictures should be nice.
Then we went into the Abri de Cap Blanc, a prehistoric (14,000 year old) gallery of animals carved out of rock. It was a little weird since it was us and one French guy, and the guide spoke French. But it was impressive anyway, though I would have preferred the paintings.
Then drive over to the Dordogne River itself at Beynac for the views 500+ feet over the river. Had a lime ice – yum. (Ed. Note: We both have a fondness for Citron Vert sorbet to this day.) Did not go in, however, due to Chateau burnout.
Then it was downriver to La Roque Gageac, a very old town (aren’t they all?) built into the cliffside. Walked up into the town, took lots of photos, then down along the river.
Started driving to the town of Rocamadour – another cliff town – but turned back after we realized the distance. Came back to Les Glycines over small country roads.
Then went to the pool for a chilly dip and to bring the diary up to date, and lie on the chaise. We’re now getting ready for another spectacular dinner. We originally planned to spend $200 for a dinner at an 18-toque restaurant in town – just to say we had the best possible meal once on the trip. But after last night, we don’t see how it can be topped at any price. So off we go…
Later…
Our second dinner at the hotel was very good, but not the religious experience the first one was. Jill had pea sop, sliced duck, salad with goat cheese and mixed sorbet. I had a salmon paté, a slice of salmon, steak and veal, cheese, followed by pears marinated in wine. Yumm. Then another walk around the garden and to bed.
Day 8 >>>
The hike was ok, except we had to cross 2 creeks – one on a broken bridge and the other on 2 logs – and Jill almost panicked and refused to budge for a while. But she persevered.
It was fun walking around the ruins. Spiral stairs, huge walls, caves, etc. The pictures should be nice.
Then we went into the Abri de Cap Blanc, a prehistoric (14,000 year old) gallery of animals carved out of rock. It was a little weird since it was us and one French guy, and the guide spoke French. But it was impressive anyway, though I would have preferred the paintings.
Then drive over to the Dordogne River itself at Beynac for the views 500+ feet over the river. Had a lime ice – yum. (Ed. Note: We both have a fondness for Citron Vert sorbet to this day.) Did not go in, however, due to Chateau burnout.
Then it was downriver to La Roque Gageac, a very old town (aren’t they all?) built into the cliffside. Walked up into the town, took lots of photos, then down along the river.
Started driving to the town of Rocamadour – another cliff town – but turned back after we realized the distance. Came back to Les Glycines over small country roads.
Then went to the pool for a chilly dip and to bring the diary up to date, and lie on the chaise. We’re now getting ready for another spectacular dinner. We originally planned to spend $200 for a dinner at an 18-toque restaurant in town – just to say we had the best possible meal once on the trip. But after last night, we don’t see how it can be topped at any price. So off we go…
Later…
Our second dinner at the hotel was very good, but not the religious experience the first one was. Jill had pea sop, sliced duck, salad with goat cheese and mixed sorbet. I had a salmon paté, a slice of salmon, steak and veal, cheese, followed by pears marinated in wine. Yumm. Then another walk around the garden and to bed.
Day 8 >>>