Day 6
Stepped outside this morning to hear the birds twittering and the church bells chiming 8 am in Bonnieux, then Lacoste. Another bright, clear morning, about 45 degrees.
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We left about 10:00 and immediately diverted from the planned itinerary by going down a side road to the "Foret de Cedres" (Cedars) outside Bonnieux. I thought it would be a short road but it ended up being a road along the Petit Luberon ridge across from our house. The road itself was not spectacular but some of the views across our valley were.
It had some hiking trails back down to the valley that would have been nice if you could get dropped off at the top and find your way to the bottom. |
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Then since were were almost in Lourmarin, another diversion to that pretty town, where we walked around and bought a baguette with twisted ends, took some photos, etc.
Someone asked me directions in French and I had to tell him "I don't know, I'm not from here" in French. No problem. I get asked for directions at least once on each trip. |
Yes, that is Peter Mayle in Lourmarin!
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Then up to the town of Buoux, where we picnicked in a parking field, whose beautiful valley view was only slightly spoiled by power lines.
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Then up over the Petit Luberon again, more spectacular views, the temp now about 70 degrees, to the outskirts of Apt for a LeClerc visit for supplies and a clock radio, since we, and the house, do not have an alarm clock that we need for Sunday morning. Feeling really tired we pointed our chariot to Roussillon, where we just about had the "Ochre Town" to ourselves.
The silence here can be deafening, especially at night. All the buildings in Roussillon are painted in various shades of the local ochre rock, that is used in their paint. We saw several overflow parking lots outside of town that are used in the summer, we parked right in the town square.
The silence here can be deafening, especially at night. All the buildings in Roussillon are painted in various shades of the local ochre rock, that is used in their paint. We saw several overflow parking lots outside of town that are used in the summer, we parked right in the town square.
The views, and the atmosphere in general, are marred by the many fires the locals are burning to get rid of God Knows What. At one point I thought grape vine trimmings, but it looks like they burn anything. Unfortunately it clouds the entire valley with a haze worse than Los Angeles, and an acrid smell at times.
By now I was exhausted, but we went to the large hill town of Gordes anyway. Mariette described it as a dead town, with too many vacation houses and not enough locals, but I couldn't find parking in the town center. We just drove around a little and left. The town looks well kept, with a spectacular, if smoky, view, and a great potential photo when entering that I want to go back and capture.
Then back home via Goult, where we tried and failed to find a Michelin starred restaurant. But first on the way there we did run across a windmill out in a field, restored as a tiny house with pool. Cool!
By now I was exhausted, but we went to the large hill town of Gordes anyway. Mariette described it as a dead town, with too many vacation houses and not enough locals, but I couldn't find parking in the town center. We just drove around a little and left. The town looks well kept, with a spectacular, if smoky, view, and a great potential photo when entering that I want to go back and capture.
Then back home via Goult, where we tried and failed to find a Michelin starred restaurant. But first on the way there we did run across a windmill out in a field, restored as a tiny house with pool. Cool!
Home at 4:00, Kristen and I took a nap. Dinner tonight God willing at Le Fournil in Bonnieux, but our luck so far has been less than stellar. Kristen has been a real trouper and loves France, driving around and picnics. That makes it fun.
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We were finally pleased with a dinner. Got to Le Fournil in Bonnieux at 7:30 and were ushered into the troglodyte cave. It was pretty empty but soon filled up.
We had a candle and potato (???) on our table and enjoyed a mackerel / goat cheese thing (Jill), fried Crevettes (shrimp, Dave), veal that tasted like pork loin (Jill & Kristen). The girls split a chocolate thingie. With kir, Pastis & wine the total came to a high 108€, but a better value than Hotel Cesar for 75€.
Home to bed where we were rudely awakened by our new alarm clock at midnight - someone in Taiwan leaves them in the "alarm" position on purpose, just to piss me off!
Day 7 >>>
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We were finally pleased with a dinner. Got to Le Fournil in Bonnieux at 7:30 and were ushered into the troglodyte cave. It was pretty empty but soon filled up.
We had a candle and potato (???) on our table and enjoyed a mackerel / goat cheese thing (Jill), fried Crevettes (shrimp, Dave), veal that tasted like pork loin (Jill & Kristen). The girls split a chocolate thingie. With kir, Pastis & wine the total came to a high 108€, but a better value than Hotel Cesar for 75€.
Home to bed where we were rudely awakened by our new alarm clock at midnight - someone in Taiwan leaves them in the "alarm" position on purpose, just to piss me off!
Day 7 >>>