Day 16
When we got up, Jill said it looked like a nicer day today. It looked kind of foggy to me. “Yes, but you can see the sun through the fog” said Jill. This is now our definition of a “good” day.
Packed up some suitcases in preparation for tomorrow. Actually, now (11:00) it’s pretty clear and we can see blue sly for the firs time in almost a week.
Packed up some suitcases in preparation for tomorrow. Actually, now (11:00) it’s pretty clear and we can see blue sly for the firs time in almost a week.
Typical lunch.
Left around 11:15 and drove the back roads towards Hautefort. Perigord looks better in the sunshine. Stopped in the pretty town of St. Orse for a mediocre baguette. Dave said bonjour to a couple of old ladies in the boulangerie , and also had a look at their Romanesque church and their sarcophagi out front. Also used their modern public toilets, a marvel for a town this size. Really, the only “pretty” town we’ve seen in these immediate parts.
Caught a glimpse of Hautefort in the distance, and took photos as we got closer on a “green” road. Decided to postpone lunch in favor of a snack and go in before the last pre-lunch tour at 12:45.
Unfortunately, the Michelin guide was out of date and the last tour was 12:00. At the same time we realized we had virtually no cash, and that the town of Hautefort didn’t have an ATM. Oops, we forgot to get cash in Thenon when we detoured around traffic stopped on the N89. Counted our pennies and realized we had 18€ and that admission would be 17€. And then we could always lie about Kristen’s age to save another 4€. So we relaxed and had our picnic.
A French family also came to the picnic area, with a girl about Kristen’s age. She and Kristen exchanged looks, and I told the girl in French that Kristen didn’t speak French. Her name was Alexi, 6 years old. She and Kristen whistled to each other, and tried to communicate without a common language.
Caught a glimpse of Hautefort in the distance, and took photos as we got closer on a “green” road. Decided to postpone lunch in favor of a snack and go in before the last pre-lunch tour at 12:45.
Unfortunately, the Michelin guide was out of date and the last tour was 12:00. At the same time we realized we had virtually no cash, and that the town of Hautefort didn’t have an ATM. Oops, we forgot to get cash in Thenon when we detoured around traffic stopped on the N89. Counted our pennies and realized we had 18€ and that admission would be 17€. And then we could always lie about Kristen’s age to save another 4€. So we relaxed and had our picnic.
A French family also came to the picnic area, with a girl about Kristen’s age. She and Kristen exchanged looks, and I told the girl in French that Kristen didn’t speak French. Her name was Alexi, 6 years old. She and Kristen whistled to each other, and tried to communicate without a common language.
Took the 2 p.m. tour with our attractive guide. Most of the chateau’s interior was destroyed in a spectacular 1968 cigarette fire, so most of the interior we saw was “not a real chateau, but a spectacular reconstruction”. Actually, some interior rooms were saved, and the entire exterior.
The view, and gardens, were nice, but tough to photograph. Still privately owned by the Bastard Family Foundation. Mme. Bastard died in 1999 at 97, after overseeing 2 reconstructions in her lifetime.
Found an ATM on the way home. We had only 16 cents left after tipping the tour guide, so I guess we couldn’t postpone it any longer.
Drove through the picturesque countryside to Cubjac, where I swear I saw an attractive riverside café the other day in the rain. I must have been hallucinating.
Drove through the picturesque countryside to Cubjac, where I swear I saw an attractive riverside café the other day in the rain. I must have been hallucinating.
Escargot
Home at 4:30 .Christian and Valérie stopped by to tell us we had to pay 75E$ for cleaning , and to be out by 10 tomorrow. And for pleasantries. Turns out that it’s normal that the fireplace spews smoke through the house (actually “spew” is too strong.)
Tried dinner at Chez Paulette, the ferme-auberge, again, but fermé again. So we went back to the hotel in St. Pierre.
Forgot to say that the first time there, I spoke with the owner Xavier about the Blues after hearing it on his stereo, and asking who it was. Turns out it was a local French Blues band! His favorite is Lightning Hopkins, “But John Lee Hooker is ok too”. Small world.
Tonight – Dave – giant shrimp, seafood / shellfish with Camembert again, and Glace Perigordine (Walnuts w/ liquor). Jill – salade Perigordine, steak with foie gras sauce (delicious), and mixed sorbet. Kristen – garlic soup and the duck with morel sauce again.
Kristen played with the owners’ 1 year old (Marine) on the way out again like last time. Didn’t have a chance to tell Xavier goodbye, but I asked a waitress to do so. He had come to the table to shake my hand after seeing us return.
So to bed…
Day 17 >>>
Tried dinner at Chez Paulette, the ferme-auberge, again, but fermé again. So we went back to the hotel in St. Pierre.
Forgot to say that the first time there, I spoke with the owner Xavier about the Blues after hearing it on his stereo, and asking who it was. Turns out it was a local French Blues band! His favorite is Lightning Hopkins, “But John Lee Hooker is ok too”. Small world.
Tonight – Dave – giant shrimp, seafood / shellfish with Camembert again, and Glace Perigordine (Walnuts w/ liquor). Jill – salade Perigordine, steak with foie gras sauce (delicious), and mixed sorbet. Kristen – garlic soup and the duck with morel sauce again.
Kristen played with the owners’ 1 year old (Marine) on the way out again like last time. Didn’t have a chance to tell Xavier goodbye, but I asked a waitress to do so. He had come to the table to shake my hand after seeing us return.
So to bed…
Day 17 >>>
