Day 14
Sunshine? What sunshine? Woke to a brief period of sun and prepared to go to Hautefort chateau, which we want to see in the sun with its beautiful gardens.
Breakfast of free-range eggs and on the road by 10. As soon as we left, it started to cloud over and drizzle again. So, we stopped and changed our plans, to head south.
First stop – Thot – where after a picnic lunch under dripping trees we toured the Museum of Prehistory, followed by a walk around their “zoo” of real animals that existed 10-20,000 years ago when they were painted by the cavemen. The highlight for Kristen was the only non-live exhibit – the full size wooly mammoth that occasionally let out a roar and moved its trunk around. Kristen thought it was real at first, and got very scared! She also had a close encounter with a mountain goat, through the fence, that lowered its head in a threatening manner (to butt her) every time she lowered hers.
Breakfast of free-range eggs and on the road by 10. As soon as we left, it started to cloud over and drizzle again. So, we stopped and changed our plans, to head south.
First stop – Thot – where after a picnic lunch under dripping trees we toured the Museum of Prehistory, followed by a walk around their “zoo” of real animals that existed 10-20,000 years ago when they were painted by the cavemen. The highlight for Kristen was the only non-live exhibit – the full size wooly mammoth that occasionally let out a roar and moved its trunk around. Kristen thought it was real at first, and got very scared! She also had a close encounter with a mountain goat, through the fence, that lowered its head in a threatening manner (to butt her) every time she lowered hers.
Then we toured the gardens and interior of nearby Chateau de Losse – a nice, fortified renaissance chateau. The interior tour was in French, and I understood a little, but the English guide sheet was informative. The furnishings were impressive, especially the detailed marquetry in some of the cabinets. We saw some pieces with identical paneling to that in our house – it turns out that this is a traditional Perigord style.
The setting on the river Vézere was also spectacular, and I took some photos later in the day from across the river on our return. The gardens were mostly composed of herbs like lavender and rosemary, suitable for the HOT summer. Hah!
The setting on the river Vézere was also spectacular, and I took some photos later in the day from across the river on our return. The gardens were mostly composed of herbs like lavender and rosemary, suitable for the HOT summer. Hah!
Did a drive-by of La Roque St. Christophe, an ancient settlement of dwellings hollowed out of the cliffs. Figured climbing slippery stairs with a 5-year-old was not a good idea.
Oh yeah, I forgot the highlight of the day – we stumbled on the huge market at Montignac before lunch.
Walked around for about an hour and bought some cheese, olives, and souvenirs. Kristen – candy and a balloon. Jill –a tablecloth for the kitchen. Dave – a quality Laguiole knife set of a normal knife with corkscrew, a small knife (for madame) and a Sommellier (to open wine bottles), plus a sharpener, for only 30€. It was worth it just for the sales pitch from the knife guy, who opened each blade and explained it, in French, with great enthusiasm.
After La Roque St. Christophe, we drove to Les Eyzies and found our hotel for Saturday and Sunday nights – pre-reserved. Les Glycines, where we stayed 8 years ago on our first French trip.
Oh yeah, I forgot the highlight of the day – we stumbled on the huge market at Montignac before lunch.
Walked around for about an hour and bought some cheese, olives, and souvenirs. Kristen – candy and a balloon. Jill –a tablecloth for the kitchen. Dave – a quality Laguiole knife set of a normal knife with corkscrew, a small knife (for madame) and a Sommellier (to open wine bottles), plus a sharpener, for only 30€. It was worth it just for the sales pitch from the knife guy, who opened each blade and explained it, in French, with great enthusiasm.
After La Roque St. Christophe, we drove to Les Eyzies and found our hotel for Saturday and Sunday nights – pre-reserved. Les Glycines, where we stayed 8 years ago on our first French trip.
Got home, tired, around 5:30. Christian stopped by around 6 to bring us some firewood, concerned that we might be cold (we are, a little).
Went out to dinner at 7:45 but the ferme-auberge down the road was still closed. We stumbled on a really nice small hotel in nearby St. Pierre where we had a great meal and Kristen was very well-behaved. Dave – 12 oysters, seafood in sauce, and a walnut tart. Jill – garlic soup, confit, and pistachio crème bruléé. Kristen – Duck with Morel sauce, Jill’s soup With chocolate glace with walnut liqueur, wine, coffee, tea, a small Armagnac and a Baileys – 80€.
Home at 10, where we lit the fire but it didn’t draft too well and some smoke went through the house. In bed at 11.
Day 15 >>>
Went out to dinner at 7:45 but the ferme-auberge down the road was still closed. We stumbled on a really nice small hotel in nearby St. Pierre where we had a great meal and Kristen was very well-behaved. Dave – 12 oysters, seafood in sauce, and a walnut tart. Jill – garlic soup, confit, and pistachio crème bruléé. Kristen – Duck with Morel sauce, Jill’s soup With chocolate glace with walnut liqueur, wine, coffee, tea, a small Armagnac and a Baileys – 80€.
Home at 10, where we lit the fire but it didn’t draft too well and some smoke went through the house. In bed at 11.
Day 15 >>>
